DIY Stand Height?

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Lt4Mike

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Agree you definitely need verticals under rim.
I personally would never hard fasten a tank to a wall here, but I'm in Ca where we have quakes, it would tear my stand apart, not sure where you are.

No quakes here in Miami, Florida. Just a 1 year old and a house I want to protect. I don’t think even a quake would tear this stand apart lol
 

davocean

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No quakes here in Miami, Florida. Just a 1 year old and a house I want to protect. I don’t think even a quake would tear this stand apart lol
You'd be surprised, when walls flex towards and away from floor and the weight of a tank virtually holds it hard to floor it can be ugly.
I'm a contractor and carpenter of 30 years, it's definitely on the do not do list here.
 
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Lt4Mike

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You'd be surprised, when walls flex towards and away from floor and the weight of a tank virtually holds it hard to floor it can be ugly.
I'm a contractor and carpenter of 30 years, it's definitely on the do not do list here.

I’m sure walls flexing is a bad situation. How would you guys secure it then?
 

davocean

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I’m sure walls flexing is a bad situation. How would you guys secure it then?

Normally I would not.
I do solid 2x frames for this reason, mine rode out a 6.3 here already once.
I try not to make too tall or tippy, but yours is narrow.
I have seen people use rubber bungies, which seems like a better idea than a hard fasten bolt I guess.

Just keep in mind, if there is any wall flex for any reason, the weight of tank makes like it's bolted to floor, so a hard fasten bolt to wall framing can be pulled away.
Of course this is a lot more critical where I live.
 
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Lt4Mike

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Normally I would not.
I do solid 2x frames for this reason, mine rode out a 6.3 here already once.
I try not to make too tall or tippy, but yours is narrow.
I have seen people use rubber bungies, which seems like a better idea than a hard fasten bolt I guess.

Just keep in mind, if there is any wall flex for any reason, the weight of tank makes like it's bolted to floor, so a hard fasten bolt to wall framing can be pulled away.
Of course this is a lot more critical where I live.

Yeah the narrowness is what freaks me out a bit. I know when that tank is on there and full it shouldn’t budge. Maybe I’ll fill it with regular water when done and test it out before securing to wall. May not need it. It is upstairs so only a few people will ever walk by it.
 
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Lt4Mike

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Nice and sturdy has a little wobble but you have to grab and push it. I will be securing it to the wall for added safety. Honestly I’ll be upgrading to a Red Sea when funds are available. I’m a bit ocd with my work and I don’t have much experience with wood so this stand will be temporary. Doing an overnight water weight test for ***** and giggles. I also used treated wood which I read after the fact shouldn’t be used. Oh well, you live and you learn. Not too bad for my first time.
 

2BeAlive

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Scrapped the cinder block idea. Went with a 2x4 frame and a plywood top. Here’s what I went with, would appreciate ones with experience to chime in.

-2x4 Frame
-3/4” Plywood Top
-1/2” Plywood Floor
-2 1/2” Stainless steel screws

48” Long x 44” Tall x 12 3/4” Wide

Three Concerns/Issues

1- Should I throw another piece of 2x4 in between the bottom of the legs?

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2 - Not wobbly unless you bump into it but I’ll be securing it to the wall in overkill fashion. I’ll be using long toggle bolts through the frame and drywall. I have thin metal studs in my walls. I was thinking 3 per rear legs evenly spaced and a few long screws through frame and baseboards??

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3 - My biggest issue is that I COMPLETELY forgot that I have a CORNER OVERFLOW. I got lucky and only the return to tank interferes. I would have to notch out a corner of a left rear brace and leg. Any better ideas? Would a small notch affect strength much? Maybe reinforce somewhere else just to be safe? Bigger black circle and smaller red circle is the hole that interferes. Sorry my proportions aren’t perfect lol.

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Let me know what you guys think!

Hi, what is the dimensions of your wooden beams?
 

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