DIY Stand Height?

[SandJ]

My stand is 36” tall, tank is 30”making the top of the tank about 66” tall. I am 60” tall so it is going to be a challenge to work in lol

But for me just about any tank requires a ladder :p

 

[User]

Is there a way to do a reliable cinder block stand for a 55 gallon?

Hope so- because I’m about to make 3 to hold a 125 ,a 50 low boy , a 40b and two 29’s...

Fir a 6 foot length, I’m doing a doubles stack of 2 cinderblocks at each end, a top frame made of unistrut, and a top of 3/4 plywood. This is for a sump, so it’ll be around 19 inches high. This’ll hold the 125

For 2 x 8 foot stands, I’m planning a doubled up triple stack on each end, top with a layer of 4 inch blocks, a unistrut top frame and 3/4 plywood. This puts height at around 29 inches. One will hold a 29 and the lowboy, the other will hold the 40b and a 29


I’ll be self leveling the floor, then using construction adhesive on the blocks. They will be positioned with the long edge parallel to the long edge of the stand. Shimming should be minimal but I’ll be prepared.

This’ll be for my fishroom, running 3 sides of the room. The 4th wall with the door will have a regular sized table for fragging and testing etc

 

[zieg9479]

Yes.
1) Stack bricks to desired height.
2) Put sheet of plywood on top of bricks.
3) Put tank on top of plywood.
4) Go grab a forty wit ya homie because that is gheeeett0

 

[Lt4Mike]

Yes.
1) Stack bricks to desired height.
2) Put sheet of plywood on top of bricks.
3) Put tank on top of plywood.
4) Go grab a forty wit ya homie because that is gheeeett0

It is, But will it work safely so you and your homie don’t hear a tank crash while you’re enjoying your delicious forties?

 

[User]

Once the tank is on and filled, it becomes rock solid.

Tip- check your concrete blocks, and if there are big >1/16th inch bumps on the faces that will be stacking, knock them back with a hammer. Alternatively, some mortar to even them out works, but is more finicky.

A third alternative is to put rubber mat between each layer. It’ll compress when the tank gets filled, and evens out the bumps. Your looking fir ‘rubber utility runner’ at HD, comes by the foot. I haven’t used this method because adhesive has always evened them out for me.

Saying that, a couple stacked up will be fine. I wouldn’t worry about it being ‘rocky’ until youre 4 high

 

[Lt4Mike]

Once the tank is on and filled, it becomes rock solid.

Tip- check your concrete blocks, and if there are big >1/16th inch bumps on the faces that will be stacking, knock them back with a hammer. Alternatively, some mortar to even them out works, but is more finicky.

A third alternative is to put rubber mat between each layer. It’ll compress when the tank gets filled, and evens out the bumps. Your looking fir ‘rubber utility runner’ at HD, comes by the foot. I haven’t used this method because adhesive has always evened them out for me.

Saying that, a couple stacked up will be fine. I wouldn’t worry about it being ‘rocky’ until youre 4 high

Thanks!

 

[Lt4Mike]

I plan on going 4 high on each end, 2x4 top frame and plywood on top of that.

 

[User]

I plan on going 4 high on each end, 2x4 top frame and plywood on top of that.

so 32 (8"x4) high block, 3.5 top frame and 3/4 ply for a final height of 36.25 inches.

blocks run with holes vertically, up/down. The blocks are weaker with the holes on the sides.

 

[Lt4Mike]

Scrapped the cinder block idea. Went with a 2x4 frame and a plywood top. Here’s what I went with, would appreciate ones with experience to chime in.

-2x4 Frame
-3/4” Plywood Top
-1/2” Plywood Floor
-2 1/2” Stainless steel screws

48” Long x 44” Tall x 12 3/4” Wide

Three Concerns/Issues

1- Should I throw another piece of 2x4 in between the bottom of the legs?

2 - Not wobbly unless you bump into it but I’ll be securing it to the wall in overkill fashion. I’ll be using long toggle bolts through the frame and drywall. I have thin metal studs in my walls. I was thinking 3 per rear legs evenly spaced and a few long screws through frame and baseboards??

3 - My biggest issue is that I COMPLETELY forgot that I have a CORNER OVERFLOW. I got lucky and only the return to tank interferes. I would have to notch out a corner of a left rear brace and leg. Any better ideas? Would a small notch affect strength much? Maybe reinforce somewhere else just to be safe? Bigger black circle and smaller red circle is the hole that interferes. Sorry my proportions aren’t perfect lol.

Let me know what you guys think!

 

[User]

Scrapped the cinder block idea. Went with a 2x4 frame and a plywood top. Here’s what I went with, would appreciate ones with experience to chime in.

-2x4 Frame
-3/4” Plywood Top
-1/2” Plywood Floor
-2 1/2” Stainless steel screws

48” Long x 44” Tall x 12 3/4” Wide

Three Concerns/Issues

1- Should I throw another piece of 2x4 in between the bottom of the legs?

2 - Not wobbly unless you bump into it but I’ll be securing it to the wall in overkill fashion. I’ll be using long toggle bolts through the frame and drywall. I have thin metal studs in my walls. I was thinking 3 per rear legs evenly spaced and a few long screws through frame and baseboards??

3 - My biggest issue is that I COMPLETELY forgot that I have a CORNER OVERFLOW. I got lucky and only the return to tank interferes. I would have to notch out a corner of a left rear brace and leg. Any better ideas? Would a small notch affect strength much? Maybe reinforce somewhere else just to be safe? Bigger black circle and smaller red circle is the hole that interferes. Sorry my proportions aren’t perfect lol.

Let me know what you guys think!

All your tank weight is on those fasteners. Bad news I’m afraid. You need to have support directly underneath the top frame down to the bottom frame. This is what actually takes the weight. Two 2x4 shaped in an L wrapping each corner will do it.

‘RocketEngineer stand” in google will give you schematics

 

[Lt4Mike]

All your tank weight is on those fasteners. Bad news I’m afraid. You need to have support directly underneath the top frame down to the bottom frame. This is what actually takes the weight. Two 2x4 shaped in an L wrapping each corner will do it.

‘RocketEngineer stand” in google will give you schematics

Oh yeah I forgot I will be adding those! Sorry! I ran out of screws. My biggest issue is the return fitting at the bottom of the tank.

 

[zieg9479]

Looks like a good start. Good call on stainless steel. As for any stability issues, glue goes a long way to providing for stiffness.
A hole saw will do the trick getting you clearance for the plumbing

 

[Lt4Mike]

Looks like a good start. Good call on stainless steel. As for any stability issues, glue goes a long way to providing for stiffness.
A hole saw will do the trick getting you clearance for the plumbing

Thanks Zieg!

 

[George Lopez]

For the return plumbing make a large cut out from the ply so you have better access I did the hole saw and its a pain to get any tools in there if there is a leak

 

[Lt4Mike]

For the return plumbing make a large cut out from the ply so you have better access I did the hole saw and its a pain to get any tools in there if there is a leak

Good tip. I may grab a jigsaw or a larger hole saw. Thanks!

 

[zieg9479]

For the return plumbing make a large cut out from the ply so you have better access I did the hole saw and its a pain to get any tools in there if there is a leak

Good point. On my last build I oversized the holes to get a wrench in there if need be (turns out it was needed when setting up the tank)

 

[George Lopez]

I got lucky mine didn't leak but If I did it again id make it bigger

 

[Windy]

I’ll be building an overkill 2x4 stand for my 55g tank. It will be viewed standing up, is there a maximum height I shouldn’t go over? Tank is 48 1/4” long, 20 3/4” tall and 12 3/4” wide.

Think about cleaning it. Will it require a ladder or stool to reach the bottom. Are you alright with having to use a stool every time you want to move something?

 

[Lt4Mike]

Think about cleaning it. Will it require a ladder or stool to reach the bottom. Are you alright with having to use a stool every time you want to move something?

That’s no big deal. Really don’t mess with it much and cleaning is minimal. I keep it simple because I don’t have time to get complicated with it.

 

[davocean]

Scrapped the cinder block idea. Went with a 2x4 frame and a plywood top. Here’s what I went with, would appreciate ones with experience to chime in.

-2x4 Frame
-3/4” Plywood Top
-1/2” Plywood Floor
-2 1/2” Stainless steel screws

48” Long x 44” Tall x 12 3/4” Wide

Three Concerns/Issues

1- Should I throw another piece of 2x4 in between the bottom of the legs?

2 - Not wobbly unless you bump into it but I’ll be securing it to the wall in overkill fashion. I’ll be using long toggle bolts through the frame and drywall. I have thin metal studs in my walls. I was thinking 3 per rear legs evenly spaced and a few long screws through frame and baseboards??

3 - My biggest issue is that I COMPLETELY forgot that I have a CORNER OVERFLOW. I got lucky and only the return to tank interferes. I would have to notch out a corner of a left rear brace and leg. Any better ideas? Would a small notch affect strength much? Maybe reinforce somewhere else just to be safe? Bigger black circle and smaller red circle is the hole that interferes. Sorry my proportions aren’t perfect lol.

Let me know what you guys think!

Agree you definitely need verticals under rim.
I personally would never hard fasten a tank to a wall here, but I'm in Ca where we have quakes, it would tear my stand apart, not sure where you are.