DIY Stand - Structural Integrity Opinions (yikes)

areefer01

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Use your favorite search engine and put in DIY Stands Template and Calculator. You should get a hit for reef central and Rocket Engineers stand. I would use that and then skin it as you see fit. Multiple options such as single panel with magnets, or hidden hinge and doors, etc. I made one for a 40 breeder that I later repurposed for my lathe. I added a couple drawers, over head light, and a box behind to attach my shop vac.

Great template and easy to pretty up with panels or doors that do not sacrifice stability and longevity.

YMMV
 
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bdesign

bdesign

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It probably will, but I’m not an engineer so I tend to overbuild everything. Just in case.

That’s my tendency, too.

I thought I’d try something different this time.

I look at the 75G stands at the local pet stores made of 1/2” particle board, and think if they can be a lunatic, I can too.
 

OutColdCRNA

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Built similar for my 65 gallon. 3/4 ply throughout. Pocket holed and glued. I probably could have gotten away without the center divider but I wanted a dry section for electronics away from my doser and ATO. I think with your support beams you would probably be fine.
IMG_9986.jpeg
IMG_0001.jpeg
68825852488__3D38EF9A-3A54-4C98-9D4E-B3788555A5E8.jpeg
 

KrisReef

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Dec 1, 2023 · MADISON, Ohio (WJW) — A minor, 2.4-magnitude earthquake was reported in Madison on Friday morning. It happened just before 9 a.m. near the Grand River in Lake County,
 

biznatch

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That’s my tendency, too.

I thought I’d try something different this time.

I look at the 75G stands at the local pet stores made of 1/2” particle board, and think if they can be a lunatic, I can too.

I had a 75g tank/stand from petsmart that I sold after setting up my 135. While yes it is mostly particle board, there is still a frame on the inside. It looked like a 1x3 frame supporting the whole tank rim, with vertical 1x3's to transfer the load from the frame to the floor. It definitely wasn't only composed of particle board.

I always under estimate the strength of plywood, so if you wanted to do a plywood only build, you could most likely do that with minor modification to your design. Instead of that center support, use the 2pc of plywood and make a full frame under the top piece that would be 1 1/2" smaller than the outer dimensions. A cross piece in the middle wouldn't hurt. Then use 2pc of plywood for vertical supports directly under that frame to either the floor, or a second base frame at all 4 corners. Another in the middle of the back couldn't hurt. This would correctly transfer all load to the floor, while also giving you something to glue/screw the 3/4" skin to.
 
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TheFunnyFarm

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hi bdesign,

There’s a lot here that I personally would address if this were a piece I was commissioned to build, though I think I know where you’re going…


This is a cabinet I threw together from scrap wood in my shop to fill a need for Quarantine.
IMG_6350.png

IMG_6351.jpeg

I trimmed the front out with a solid wood Faceframe that unifies the vertical and horizontal components, faux drawer fronts concealing a big 8” high webframe (underside below, ignore the plethora of holes it was scrap)
IMG_6348.jpeg

I also used a single piece of 3/4” ply for the back which squared the carcass, and lent its strength to the assembly by being screwed, glued, and tattooed to the rest of the cab.

I would suggest levelers instead of feet as it gives you greater control for initial leveling. Holes can be bored above so to access and adjust with a hex key too. They are rated to 300lbs/ea and I put in 6 to increase stability.

This supports a custom 40gal QT tank without coming anywhere close to the theoretical max safe capacity.

Let me know if you have any questions or want additional info and I’ll see if I can find my sketches i built it from
 

Steve2020

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Assuming the tank has a plastic frame around the bottom, the middle beam has little value. All of the weight will be supported around the perimeter. I would put a beam across the front and across the back. The value of the plywood top is to provide lateral rigidity. If you look at metal frames, you will notice they typically are open in the middle.
I for one do not fully agree with your comment " If you look at metal frames, you will notice they typically are open in the middle ". My custom made frame from Crystal Dynamics Aquarium has two middle support frames. To verify mine was not built outside of the normal, I googled " custom made metal aquarium stands and it looks like 90-99% of the metal stands, even the cheap Petco ones, all had at a minimum one middle/offset from exact middle support frame. The only metal frame I saw that did not have a middle support frame was a small 24"x24" frame.
 

TheFunnyFarm

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I for one do not fully agree with your comment " If you look at metal frames, you will notice they typically are open in the middle ". My custom made frame from Crystal Dynamics Aquarium has two middle support frames. To verify mine was not built outside of the normal, I googled " custom made metal aquarium stands and it looks like 90-99% of the metal stands, even the cheap Petco ones, all had at a minimum one middle/offset from exact middle support frame. The only metal frame I saw that did not have a middle support frame was a small 24"x24" frame.
I believe what threebouys meant was that the structure was around the perimeter with the interior void/open without a bisecting support.

The off-the-shelf metal knockdown stands have intermediate vertical members due to keeping with as few extrusion profile sizes as possible while working with their deflection values.
 

Steve2020

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I believe what threebouys meant was that the structure was around the perimeter with the interior void/open without a bisecting support.

The off-the-shelf metal knockdown stands have intermediate vertical members due to keeping with as few extrusion profile sizes as possible while working with their deflection values.
If he meant bisecting support then I agree but when he used the term middle beam I thought he meant that most metal stands do not have any middle beams going across the front and back frames. Most actually do have middle beams.
These are the beams I thought he was saying don't normally exist:
20231204_201333.jpg 20231204_201402.jpg
 
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bdesign

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Thanks to everyone for all your thoughts and input - I really appreciate it!
 

Leroyc

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3/4" Plywood is plenty strong for 62g tank.

I built a similar stand from 3/4 ply for an IM 75g
I used Kreg pocket screws and glue, I added some extra support on the sides and across the top just for piece of mind.

IMG_1323.jpeg
Any more pictures?
 

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