DIY Sump Modification add sections (Glass or Plexi)

[zemuss]

I posted my 60 Gallon Reboot thread.

One of the issues that needs attention is that the 40 G breeder tank is just a equipment dump. Meaning it is not organized and just equipment thrown in there with the only purpose to hide the equipment from the main tank.

I would like to add some baffles to the sump. However, I dont want to spend 100 + on baffles so i was thinking about acrylic / Plexiglas. Will the Home Depot Plexiglas work or should i get cell cast?
Would I need to go Glass baffles since it is a glass tank?

Additions:

1. Filter Sock section / Carbon Bags. - This is being added because the sump was becoming a nitrate factory. My initial test before the reboot was nitrates of at least 50 PPM + (I currently have about 6 to 8 filter socks which will make a weekly cycle to reduce the build up of detritus. in the sump. I think i removed about 8 oz on the last vacuum).
2. Refugium Section (First Water contact section)-- Being built because I am currently growing cheato to off set and reduce nuisance algae.
3. Skimmer section after Refugium (Second Water Contact)- Needed for organization
4. Return Section (Return Pump and ATO here)(Last Water Contact) - Needed for organization

The remaining issue is flow inside the sump which I might have a solution for by using two older Jebao RW4 power heads. (Replaced by Coral Box RN-1 in Display Tank) This should provide some flow inside the sump.

Let me know what you would do. I am hoping i can go the Home Depot Plexiglas route.

 

[mrpizzaface]

I posted my 60 Gallon Reboot thread.

One of the issues that needs attention is that the 40 G breeder tank is just a equipment dump. Meaning it is not organized and just equipment thrown in there with the only purpose to hide the equipment from the main tank.

I would like to add some baffles to the sump. However, I dont want to spend 100 + on baffles so i was thinking about acrylic / Plexiglas. Will the Home Depot Plexiglas work or should i get cell cast?
Would I need to go Glass baffles since it is a glass tank?

Additions:

1. Filter Sock section / Carbon Bags. - This is being added because the sump was becoming a nitrate factory. My initial test before the reboot was nitrates of at least 50 PPM + (I currently have about 6 to 8 filter socks which will make a weekly cycle to reduce the build up of detritus. in the sump. I think i removed about 8 oz on the last vacuum).
2. Refugium Section (First Water contact section)-- Being built because I am currently growing cheato to off set and reduce nuisance algae.
3. Skimmer section after Refugium (Second Water Contact)- Needed for organization
4. Return Section (Return Pump and ATO here)(Last Water Contact) - Needed for organization

The remaining issue is flow inside the sump which I might have a solution for by using two older Jebao RW4 power heads. (Replaced by Coral Box RN-1 in Display Tank) This should provide some flow inside the sump.

Let me know what you would do. I am hoping i can go the Home Depot Plexiglas route.

I would go with glass. Height is up to you. The width should be the interior dimension of the sump minus 1/8”. Use aquarium safe silicon. I would choose 1/4” glass. Glass shop will charge you like $10.
Get magnetic sock holders.

 

[High ICP]

Extruded melts when you cut it

I wouldn’t use it

TapPlastic will cut your acrylic to size

 

[KrisReef]

Bonding plexi to glass doesn't work (if will fail) with silicone seal, whereas glass to glass with silicone will make an easy and successful construction project. Also, silicone can be cut and moved later if you change your mind.
GL!

Also, adding the dimensions of your pump and skimmer could allow for more helpful/specific comments for sizing the 40 gallon sections with baffles

 

[High ICP]

Glass is much nicer

Silicone really doesn’t bond to acrylic, as KrisReef states. But it will hold baffles in place with a small 1/4”(or a little larger) bead or fillet on both sides. In a sump. I have had baffles fail, on a 29 sump, pretty sure it had a fillet on only one side.

I would design a sump refugium to be after the skimmer. Not before it. One of the purported uses of a refugium is a amphipod nursery. They will get skimmed out with a good skimmer. If you have no plans to ever keep a mandarin, it makes no difference really.

 

[Bigtrout]

When I built my 40 breeder sump baffles I measured carefully, took my measurements to the local glass shop and asked for 1/4 inch glass. He looked at the measurements and asked me if I needed them now, or could wait a few days. If I needed them that day and he had to cut out of his bigger sheets they were 28 dollars which was a decent price. He said he could cut them from scraps from other jobs if I could wait a few days. I waited and ended up getting all 4 baffles for 12 dollars and he even rounded off all the edges beautifully.

Go with glass!!!

 

[High ICP]

Glass is much nicer

Silicone really doesn’t bond to acrylic, as KrisReef states. But it will hold baffles in place with a small 1/4”(or a little larger) bead or fillet on both sides. In a sump. I have had baffles fail, on a 29 sump, pretty sure it had a fillet on only one side.

I would design a sump refugium to be after the skimmer. Not before it. One of the purported uses of a refugium is a amphipod nursery. They will get skimmed out with a good skimmer. If you have no plans to ever keep a mandarin, it makes no difference really.

Copepods. Not amphipods.

 

[zemuss]

ok glass it is.. The sumps design, in the triton method has the chaeto compartment first. This is what I based my decision off of, to have the water contact with the refugium first. I can make it second contact but when i read about how the triton sump was setup it made sense. But putting the refugium second makes sense for the copepods.

Anyone know a good glass shop in Fort Lauderdale, South Florida area?

 

[zemuss]

Bonding plexi to glass doesn't work (if will fail) with silicone seal, whereas glass to glass with silicone will make an easy and successful construction project. Also, silicone can be cut and moved later if you change your mind.
GL!

Also, adding the dimensions of your pump and skimmer could allow for more helpful/specific comments for sizing the 40 gallon sections with baffles

I will get the dimensions of the pump and the skimmer can be found here : https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reef-octopus-classic-150int-6-internal-protein-skimmer.html

 

[ca1ore]

FWIW, since most baffles aren't under substantial pressure the 'acrylic won't bond to glass' is something of a red herring. I would go with glass also, but just know if you chose acrylic it would work fine also as long as you account for some expansion. Either way, make sure to give the silicone at least a week to fully cure.

 

[Bigtrout]

Either way, make sure to give the silicone at least a week to fully cure.

Id second that...most problems from silicone killing livestock come from not being fully cured. 24 to 48 hours IS NOT ENOUGH TIME TO FULLY CURE!!!

Some kinds gives off acetic acid among other things and other silicones give off ammonia and other chemicals. If you can still smell the odor it is NOT cured...a week is a good safe number.
Another trick is to lay a bead the same size as you used on a piece of plastic or something and keep it close to where your silicone is curing. If you cut into the test bead and it smells or is wet inside...wait a few more days.

 

[joe berkman]

How do you prevent light spill between the fuge and skimmer compartment with glass baffles? Is colored glass an option?

 

[zemuss]

How do you prevent light spill between the fuge and skimmer compartment with glass baffles? Is colored glass an option?

Would light spill be an issue? whats the concern?

 

[burnetb1]

I use an external fuge for the light spill issue. My reason for containing the light is I'm lazy and containing the light allows me to go longer periods of time between cleaning the sump. It also allows me to feed my fuge and skimmer independently so the flow isnt going from one to the other. Last reason is the fuge is easier to clean if I can completely remove it. The external fuge does take up more space and add some plumbing complexity.
As for containing light using glass baffles.... my only idea is to use two thinner panes of glass and use black silicone between them to black them out. This would add some cost since you would be using more silicone and glass, but it should work in theory. It will not completely protect against light spill but would help. Thinner glass is cheaper too.

 

[zemuss]

Question does anyone see harm in removing the top plastic frame off the 40g Breeder? If so, how about just removing the center brace?

 

[zemuss]

I use an external fuge for the light spill issue. My reason for containing the light is I'm lazy and containing the light allows me to go longer periods of time between cleaning the sump. It also allows me to feed my fuge and skimmer independently so the flow isnt going from one to the other. Last reason is the fuge is easier to clean if I can completely remove it. The external fuge does take up more space and add some plumbing complexity.
As for containing light using glass baffles.... my only idea is to use two thinner panes of glass and use black silicone between them to black them out. This would add some cost since you would be using more silicone and glass, but it should work in theory. It will not completely protect against light spill but would help. Thinner glass is cheaper too.

Good to know and thank you for the explanation. This will be something I consider..

I currently use a 5 gallon bucket as my Fuge for Chaeto.