DIY Tank Stand Larger Deeper than Tank

[CJ Monty]

So I was going to build a stand for my 150 gallon 5x2x2 glass tank. I was going to follow the design in the youtube video below. But it is your classic all butt joint. I was going to put plywood on top even though with glass all the weight is around the edge of the tank. Originally I was going to build the stand the exact dimensions (5x2) since based on the video it is the up pieces of wood in the corner and center support that carry the load. Does the edges of the tank need to directly on the edges of stand (to be right on the up pieces of wood). Would I have any problems if I made it 5.25 x 2.5 feet? I have attached a picture I found online. The image is doing it with the length. I am talking about doing it with the depth if that matters.

My reason for doing this is I was going to use a 40 Breeder as the sump with is just over 18 inches deep. With a center brace you lose 3 inches in the front and 3 inches in the back making in just not fit. Also it would be nice to have a side door I can slide the sump in and out.

 

[Billdogg]

You will be fine if you sister another 2x around the inside of the top frame. Glue and screw them in placeso that the tank has solid support all around and you will be good to go. I purposely build my stands a little larger than the tanks footprint because I like having a little ledge to put things on.

 

[CJ Monty]

You will be fine if you sister another 2x around the inside of the top frame. Glue and screw them in placeso that the tank has solid support all around and you will be good to go. I purposely build my stands a little larger than the tanks footprint because I like having a little ledge to put things on.

Sorry newbie. By sister I assume you mean something like my mock up attached. That is a top down view and you would do that all the way around. Tank would sit on the inside frame all the way around. This would effectively make the stand 3 inches deeper and wider.

An additional 2 thoughts I had.

1. If I make the stand exactly 5x2 than the tank would sit on the edge of the wood making up the frame. If I made the stand 5' 1.5" x 2' 1.5" than I could make it sit on the center of the wood (since 2x4 are really 1.5 thick). This would give me and inch half and allow the sump to fit in.

2. The center brace is really my problem which is needed on a 5 foot. Your space under the stand is 21" but were there are braces i.e the center it gets reduced to 18" What if I move the "center brace"? I would put a brace a foot from each side so looking at the front of the stand you would have corner -> 12"space -> brace -> 36" space -> brace -> 12" corner. This would also allow you to take the sump in and out from the front as well. I do not think this is breaking any rule as it is my understanding that wood should be braced over 4 feet spans and in the above design it is.

 

[Matt Carden]

Does your tank have a frame or will the glass sit directly on the stand? If a frame then you would want the frame to sit on the vertical support members in the 4 corners.

 

[CJ Monty]

Does your tank have a frame or will the glass sit directly on the stand? If a frame then you would want the frame to sit on the vertical support members in the 4 corners.

Glass will sit directly on stand. Was going to use a leveling mat on top of the plywood. So my comment about all the weight being around the edges was incorrect.

 

[Billdogg]

Sorry newbie. By sister I assume you mean something like my mock up attached. That is a top down view and you would do that all the way around. Tank would sit on the inside frame all the way around. This would effectively make the stand 3 inches deeper and wider.

An additional 2 thoughts I had.

1. If I make the stand exactly 5x2 than the tank would sit on the edge of the wood making up the frame. If I made the stand 5' 1.5" x 2' 1.5" than I could make it sit on the center of the wood (since 2x4 are really 1.5 thick). This would give me and inch half and allow the sump to fit in.

2. The center brace is really my problem which is needed on a 5 foot. Your space under the stand is 21" but were there are braces i.e the center it gets reduced to 18" What if I move the "center brace"? I would put a brace a foot from each side so looking at the front of the stand you would have corner -> 12"space -> brace -> 36" space -> brace -> 12" corner. This would also allow you to take the sump in and out from the front as well. I do not think this is breaking any rule as it is my understanding that wood should be braced over 4 feet spans and in the above design it is.

You are close. Remove the spacer and glue/screw the two long pieces together - turn the top frame into, in effect, a 4x4 (actual size 3 x 3.5). That way you can easily make the stand larger than the tank's footprint. It will also give you a little more room in the sump area because you won't need the extra on the bottom frame.

 

[Matt Carden]

I made my 2"x6" top 59"x23" for a 60"x24" tank. Skinned with 1/2" plywood

 

[CJ Monty]

I made my 2"x6" top 59"x23" for a 60"x24" tank. Skinned with 1/2" plywood

You used 2x6s? Did you have a center brace?

 

[CJ Monty]

You will be fine if you sister another 2x around the inside of the top frame. Glue and screw them in placeso that the tank has solid support all around and you will be good to go. I purposely build my stands a little larger than the tanks footprint because I like having a little ledge to put things on.

Thanks I am not sure how to sister it though. The "spacer" as you said was not something I added based on your suggestion it already existed in the design I was following. For the center brace it the upright supporting the weight and then a guide upright inside (that was the spacer).

How does it work with sistering. I get you are essentially making a 4x4 but where the tank would be sitting on the inside one which doesnt have the upbeam supporting it. So I guess screwing together prevents the other one from bowing. But if the screws are what are preventing it from bowing wouldnt you need a lot of screws? My understanding is screws with snap with about 50lbs of weight.

 

[Matt Carden]

You used 2x6s? Did you have a center brace?

No that's why 2x6 otherwise 2x4 would be fine

 

[Dragon52]

The top of my stand is a peice of plywood 1" bigger than the stand but the tank sits right above the main supports all the way around.

 

[flsalty]

I'm not sure how you are doing the center brace, but you can do it only losing 3 inches total. Two 2x4 together. One goes between the top and bottom frame. the other goes inside top to bottom. Glued and screwed together. Hopefully that makes sense. It would be like a 4x4 with a notch cut in it for the frames.

 

[CJ Monty]

I'm not sure how you are doing the center brace, but you can do it only losing 3 inches total. Two 2x4 together. One goes between the top and bottom frame. the other goes inside top to bottom. Glued and screwed together. Hopefully that makes sense. It would be like a 4x4 with a notch cut in it for the frames.

Yup. The stand is 24 inches but the inside of the stand is only 21 thickness of the 2x4 in front and back. Then another 1.5 in the front and back for the second piece on the front and back as you mentioned. I think I will skip the center brace and use 2x6 or 2x8 to be safe on the top frame. This will allow me to pull the sump out easy if need be.

 

[Nobody077]

I build all my stands bigger then the display tank, I build to fit the sump. Use a few 2x4 braces front to back on top and a peice of 3/4 or 1in ply on the top and don't worry. The 2x4s are for extra peice of mind,the plywood will handle the load no issue without them, just check placement if you have bottom drains so when you cut or drill the plywood for plumbing the braces won't be in the way.

 

[flsalty]

Yup. The stand is 24 inches but the inside of the stand is only 21 thickness of the 2x4 in front and back. Then another 1.5 in the front and back for the second piece on the front and back as you mentioned. I think I will skip the center brace and use 2x6 or 2x8 to be safe on the top frame. This will allow me to pull the sump out easy if need be.

Oh duh...I was thinking of the outer dimension...lol.

 

[cvrle1]

I just built a stand with similar issue as you. Tank is 5' X 18" deep X 24" high, while my sump was 24" deep. This is what I came up with

As you an see I do have 2 center braces, but I made them offset. I used 2X6 as top, so this was fine (I checked with RocketEngineer, whose template I used, and he confirmed there was no need for center brace with 5 foot tank and 2X6s) Main reason i put center braces was for doors, so that I can have 2.

This way my tank will be supported like it should, and I will have room below to fit a much deeper sump.

 

[CJ Monty]

I just built a stand with similar issue as you. Tank is 5' X 18" deep X 24" high, while my sump was 24" deep. This is what I came up with

As you an see I do have 2 center braces, but I made them offset. I used 2X6 as top, so this was fine (I checked with RocketEngineer, whose template I used, and he confirmed there was no need for center brace with 5 foot tank and 2X6s) Main reason i put center braces was for doors, so that I can have 2.

This way my tank will be supported like it should, and I will have room below to fit a much deeper sump.

Thanks for the images. Looking good! Yeah that what I was thinking I could move a center brace more to the side like you did. But I am getting more comfortable with no center brace and wider wood up top. Quick question the guide pieces are shorter than the top of the stand and also dont touch the bottom as well? Also they are optional if you can use a jig to screw in the supports.

 

[cvrle1]

Thanks for the images. Looking good! Yeah that what I was thinking I could move a center brace more to the side like you did. But I am getting more comfortable with no center brace and wider wood up top. Quick question the guide pieces are shorter than the top of the stand and also dont touch the bottom as well? Also they are optional if you can use a jig to screw in the supports.

Guide pieces provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square. As such I didnt need them to go from top to bottom.