Discussion in 'Do It Yourself (DIY)' started by Striike, Mar 5, 2010.

Do I Need Floor Supporting?!?

One of the questions that is inevitably asked in every aquarium chat room, newsgroup and bulletin board is "just how large an aquarium can my...
  1. kalare

    kalare Well-Known Member Partner Member 2018

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    Do you live on the first floor? If you live on a floor above, the concrete is very thin and only there for sound dampening...that is of course unless your building is a reinforced concrete building. I'm generally working on the assumption that you're in a wood framed building. However, in either case, I believe in your case you'll be fine, fill that tank up!
     

  2. Gustavo Martinez

    Gustavo Martinez Well-Known Member

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    Awesome write up and advice... I cant wait to go look at my floor in my basement after work, lol... Im going to be setting up a 55g Hexagon, sitting on a 36" stand towards the front of the house in the corner, so I think It should be ok. But doesn't hurt to add some support just in case....
     
  3. kalare

    kalare Well-Known Member Partner Member 2018

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    55g in a corner will, as you said, most likely (99%) be fine. Of course, feel free to post back with some framing information for a more solid answer.
     
  4. Caleb740

    Caleb740 Active Member

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    Old, but a great read! Needed this information for my new setup! Thanks.
     
  5. Robert Baumer

    Robert Baumer Member

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    Does anyone know of crawl space support ideas? I have maybe 40" from the cement slab to the base of the 2x10's in my family room and I am looking for ways to build up the floor safely?
     
  6. Scotch57

    Scotch57 Member

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    Menards has floor jacks
     
  7. kalare

    kalare Well-Known Member Partner Member 2018

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    To properly reinforce the floor (assuming you've verified that the existing framing is inadequate) I would suggest pouring new concrete footings on compacted soil, and providing new 4x4 (or appropriate size for your framing) posts to shorten the spans of the beams/joists. Note that you'll want to be sure no wood is within 6 inches of soil, to avoid rot and termite. You'll also want a minimum of 12" below beams and 18" below joists, to allow for a person to crawl around down there if necessary...all code requirements.

    Also note, I would not just place cinder blocks on uncompacted soil, as that soil WILL settle, and the tank could possible become out of level. I would also not use temporary jacks as they may become dislodged during a seismic event, or if any animal bumps them, or for any number of other reasons, then your floor could fail. Do it once and do it right.
     
  8. Robert Baumer

    Robert Baumer Member

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    This is what I hope to do, since one side of my floor joists terminate on top of a 10" concrete footer I believe I am safe on that side. I will come out about 30" inches from that footer and place a 6x4 perpendicular to the joist supporting the tank, both against the joists and then one on the cement. I will then use 3 36" jacks that can withstand a compression load of 16,000 lbs. I believe this should be sufficient to support the weight of the tank, water, rock, sump, and of course my stand.... comments welcomed... I have to do this right the first time, failure is not an option.

    IMG_0021.JPG
     
  9. kalare

    kalare Well-Known Member Partner Member 2018

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    I'd have to see a diagram of what you want to do to be really sure, but it sounds like you plan on introducing an intermediate support for the floor joists at approximately 30" off the wall, which is supported directly on concrete foundation.

    In either case, see what I said above about jacks, I would absolutely not use them as a permanent solution. I'd install that 4x6 perpendicular to the joists (long dimension should be vertical) and then install new 4x4 posts in lieu of jacks. Use proper clips, post caps and post bases to attach the members together. You should be able to find Simpson StrongTie or USP products at your local home improvement store. The new 4x4 posts should absolutely be installed into a proper footing on compacted soil...see my comment above regarding soil settlement and floor jacks.
     
  10. MontereyDNA

    MontereyDNA Well-Known Member

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    If, as you say, "failure is not an option" I'd contact a structural engineer for an on site consult.

    I think we all mean well providing advice online but an engineer can take everything into account and make it bullet proof.
     
  11. eenoo

    eenoo Well-Known Member

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    I live in an older large (20+ stories) apartment building in Miami. All buildings here are concrete. I'm putting a 240g tank in my living room with one side next to a structural wall (its a peninsula tank). I imagine this will be fine as my floors are solid concrete. Am I correct in this assumption?
     
  12. eenoo

    eenoo Well-Known Member

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    I guess I can ask here as well. For a 240g tank (72x30x25) how should I build the stand. Ideally id like no center brace. I was wondering if I did 4x4 on the corners and 2x8 for the top frame and 2x4 for the bottom frame would that be acceptable. I know how to properly join the frame but I wonder if it will hold steadily with just those?

    Thanks :)
     
  13. Flippers4pups

    Flippers4pups Fins up since 1993 R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor

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    4x4 lumber has a tendency to warp and twist and shouldn't be used in stand construction. Using 2x6 for the top frame would be sufficient.

    2x4's would be sufficient for the legs using "rocket engineers" design:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. eenoo

    eenoo Well-Known Member

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    Do you think I need a center leg/brace? Looks like you've saved me a couple bucks :) ill use 2x4s then!
     
  15. Flippers4pups

    Flippers4pups Fins up since 1993 R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor

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    6' tank?
     
  16. eenoo

    eenoo Well-Known Member

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    72c30x25. Yea
     
  17. Flippers4pups

    Flippers4pups Fins up since 1993 R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor

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    You should be fine.
     
  18. kalare

    kalare Well-Known Member Partner Member 2018

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    It's impossible to tell if your tank will be OK without knowing the construction of the floor. I've been in many historic concrete buildings where clients wanted to increase floor loading only to find out that the floors were not adequate to sustain code level loading as they were. I would say that you will most likely be OK, however nobody here can tell you for sure.

    For instance, in your case, your tank, 240g, should weight approximately 2000# of water, plus stand, tank, sump, say at least 2500#. Over 15 square feet, that's approximately 170 pounds per square foot. Code required is to be designed for 40 pounds per square foot. This is of course an average, and higher loads are to expected in some areas.

    If it were me, I'd set it up against the wall, not peninsula.
     
  19. eenoo

    eenoo Well-Known Member

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    It doesnt fit along the walls sadly (and I've always wanted a peninsula). I'm on the second floor of a 23 story building and the wall its next to is cement along with the floor under it. I think I'm going to risk it.

    Obviously beefing up the floor isn't an option, is there anything else I can do though?

    I do know it can hold a bunch of weight because the penthouse owner put an old Ferrari in his living room. I imagine thats pretty heavy
     
    Flippers4pups likes this.
  20. eenoo

    eenoo Well-Known Member

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    It doesnt fit along the walls sadly (and I've always wanted a peninsula). I'm on the second floor of a 23 story building and the wall its next to is cement along with the floor under it. I think I'm going to risk it.

    Obviously beefing up the floor isn't an option, is there anything else I can do though?

    I do know it can hold a bunch of weight because the penthouse owner put an old Ferrari in his living room. I imagine thats pretty heavy
     
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