+1
Cryptocaryon (ich) is one of the easiest parasites to eliminate if you use TTM. TTM is simple, effective and exploits the most predictable stage of the parasite's life cycle. As noted above, it doesn't expose the fish to toxic compounds.
Do you treat for Ich in QT, even if there's none?
- Thread starter DracoKat
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+1
Cryptocaryon (ich) is one of the easiest parasites to eliminate if you use TTM. TTM is simple, effective and exploits the most predictable stage of the parasite's life cycle. As noted above, it doesn't expose the fish to toxic compounds.
LoneStarReef
Active Member
So I guess I am unclear after reading these posts. Can you successfully prophylatically treat for velvet in the DT? Sounds like some fish can be resistant to the disease (and yet be carriers) and even our best efforts will not successfully take care of velvet. Thoughts?
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
Copper and cp are the only ways to get rid of velvet. TTM nor hypo will have much effect on it. As rampant as velvet is in the distribution chain right now I would worry greatly about its introduction.
427HISS
2500 Club Member
So, use PraziPro as a "preventive",... or not ? (maybe start a poll)
The problem I have, is by the time you see the white injuries on a fish, most likely Crypt, the jerks have already begun to do damage, and worst, in their gills.
That's why I'm asking to pretreat & hopefully,....prevent or even kill the parasites before they get a foot hold on the fish (or in this case, a fin hold) Sorry, had too. lol
The problem I have, is by the time you see the white injuries on a fish, most likely Crypt, the jerks have already begun to do damage, and worst, in their gills.
That's why I'm asking to pretreat & hopefully,....prevent or even kill the parasites before they get a foot hold on the fish (or in this case, a fin hold) Sorry, had too. lol
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
Yes prazi is also a very good preventative for flukes and other worms, sometimes even intestinal parasites but it will do nothing for ich, velvet, brook, or any other parasite.
LoneStarReef
Active Member
Thanks!
Plus brook & uronema. CP pretty much covers all external parasites. However, there are also worms (Prazipro & Metronidazole) and bacterial infections (antibiotics) to consider.
I can do that if the OP is OK with it.
melypr1985
totally addicted
When they say to treat with chloroquine phosphate or copper, they mean in a QT. You would have to remove the fish from the display to treat wtih these things in the QT while leaving the display fallow (or fishless) for about 76 days depending on what your dealing with (velvet or ick). Prazi treats worms - mostly flukes and is a great thing to treat with during QT as a preventative.
The ideal situation is that you QT every fish that goes into your display -before it goes in there- and treat for ick and flukes in a preventative manor. Ick treatments include Tank Transfer Method, Copper, CP and Hypo, Velvet treatments include CP and Copper.
I hope that helps clear things up. Treat the fish before going into the display for ick and flukes even if they dont show signs of it....Every time.... no matter what.
427HISS
2500 Club Member
I don't want to change the OP's thread, which I don't think it would, but a poll would be nice.
There are several ways to treat these illnesses and everyone has a different idea what should/could be done.
Pretreat, only if you see something, copper, ProziePro, fresh water dips, garlic, TTM,...etc.
A friend said, why put fish through more stress using chemicals, but I brought up the idea to get the critters before they embed themselves into the fish.
I recently read that most wholesalers holding tanks have all these parisites, fungus's ect, because the ocean naturally has them, but their amune system fights them, but when the fisf go through so much stress from the being caught, shipped a few times etc, ending up in our home tanks. Even there slime is reduced allowing easy penetration ect......
There is so much information and different ideas on forums and videos, that it gets very confusing. I know someone will say, do what works for you, which really doesn't help.
There are several ways to treat these illnesses and everyone has a different idea what should/could be done.
Pretreat, only if you see something, copper, ProziePro, fresh water dips, garlic, TTM,...etc.
A friend said, why put fish through more stress using chemicals, but I brought up the idea to get the critters before they embed themselves into the fish.
I recently read that most wholesalers holding tanks have all these parisites, fungus's ect, because the ocean naturally has them, but their amune system fights them, but when the fisf go through so much stress from the being caught, shipped a few times etc, ending up in our home tanks. Even there slime is reduced allowing easy penetration ect......
There is so much information and different ideas on forums and videos, that it gets very confusing. I know someone will say, do what works for you, which really doesn't help.
Agreed. A formalin dip prior to placing the fish in QT is a good preventative against velvet (and brook, uronema).
Most fish collected in the ocean will have some parasites or worms on them. Which isn't a problem in the ocean, since there are about a gazillion gallons of water diluting the parasites. The problem occurs when you place the fish in a closed system, where they become overwhelmed by a much higher concentration of parasites, worms and harmful bacteria. Even a healthy immune system can have a hard time keeping up with that. So, that is why it is desirable to keep diseases out of your DT as much as possible. A DT sterile from diseases, but teeming with good microbes, is a happy DT IMO. It is also very important to keep your fish in tip top condition through proper nutrition.
I've seen formalin clear brook after just one bath, but I'm less confident in it's ability to force all velvet trophonts to dislodge from a fish. Have you seen evidence of this? Have you tested it out on a fish with velvet? If not, I'd like to test to see if one formalin bath will clear a fish of velvet (which would be HUGE).
I have not tried it with a fish that has a confirmed velvet infection, unfortunately. CP would be my treatment of choice in that situation.
The article below states that formalin does indeed cause trophonts to detach (see section on treating food fish, specifically):
http://agrilife.org/fisheries/files...mportant-Parasite-of-Cultured-Marine-Fish.pdf
Looks like the bath would need to be for a few hours to possibly achieve 100% removal of the trophonts:
I may try this, and then transfer the fish into a sterile QT with no meds to see if it works.
Myka
Valuable Member
I have the same procedure, plus more. I start prophylactic Ich/Brook/Velvet treatment as soon as the new fish have been eating well for a few days - usually 3-5 days after I acquire them. I do a FW dip first, and look to see what I'm dealing with. Watch wrasses very closely - they don't do FW dips well ime. After that I do a round of Praziquantel. Once these two prophylactic treatments are over, I'll feed them metronidazole-laced food for internal parasites. It's amazing what comes out of them after a few feedings of Metro food. If the fish start showing something weird that I don't know what the heck it is, I'll do a Formalin dip, but only if it's progressing quickly or I've had no improvement with the above treatments - if fw dip, copper/cp, prazi, and metro don't get rid of it, then Formalin is the big guns. This process usually takes me 4-6 weeks. My QT is always set up and it has a bit of sand and a few 6" clay pots, so there are some meds I don't use.
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