Not really sure what's going on here. I do a 10÷ water change 2 times a week with instant ocean ocean reef crystals and all my soft corals end up getting super droopy. Im running a kessil a360, a gfo and carbon reactor, and a skimmer..... I feel like I should have top notch results here..... Should be appropriate to mention I got a bit of a dino problem. I have had several soft corals become super droopy.... One even turned black.... I only use distilled water and reef crystals...
Droopy
- Thread starter Stanzo13
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1.025 salinity, temp very stable at 76.5 idk if that's a problem. Nitrates 5-10 hasn't been over 10, phospates just under .5 but I don't know exact. Tank running around 2 years... Same fish for at least 10 months
Different brands of distilled water will give different results. Period.
Also , many soft corals prefer higher nutrients.
Irony.
Also , many soft corals prefer higher nutrients.
Irony.
I also don't have a light controller, not very tight on it.... Turn it on between 10:30 to 11:30 and off about 7:00 but it varies from day to day as I'm at work, sometimes my roommate will forget to turn off the light and I won't get it until 11 pm
It’s worth getting an rodi.
Smite
2500 Club Member
When people ask your parameters, they'll want to know:
Salinity
Temp
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
I know reef crystals has elevated levels of Alk, Mag and Calcium. I wonder some of those levels are out of whack if your tank isnt consuming what you are replacing with water changes?
Also
Lighting, Nitrates, Phosphates and whether you are using RO/DI with a zero TDS reading.
Do you have decent flow in the tank? Droopy seems like something that could happen in low flow.
Stability is key so that light timer would be a great investment.
I've battled dinos a few times. In my experience they strip water, and quickly. For me, an sps keeper, that'd reek havoc on my sticks. With softies liking more nutrients I'm sure they are effected by the dino bloom as well so that could be contributing to your problem. I've had great success with a 3 day blackout.
Once you start keeping coral, RO/DI really is a must in my experience. Knowing you have 0 tds to start really helps eliminate water quality issues. Without that its a guessing game.
Salinity
Temp
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
I know reef crystals has elevated levels of Alk, Mag and Calcium. I wonder some of those levels are out of whack if your tank isnt consuming what you are replacing with water changes?
Also
Lighting, Nitrates, Phosphates and whether you are using RO/DI with a zero TDS reading.
Do you have decent flow in the tank? Droopy seems like something that could happen in low flow.
Stability is key so that light timer would be a great investment.
I've battled dinos a few times. In my experience they strip water, and quickly. For me, an sps keeper, that'd reek havoc on my sticks. With softies liking more nutrients I'm sure they are effected by the dino bloom as well so that could be contributing to your problem. I've had great success with a 3 day blackout.
Once you start keeping coral, RO/DI really is a must in my experience. Knowing you have 0 tds to start really helps eliminate water quality issues. Without that its a guessing game.
Thank you guys both so much for the helpful advice. I will definitely be getting that timer, I am running a gyre flow in my tank and it seems to do great. I'd also like to mention that lps corals are kicking some tail and growing great. I live in a place with SUPER hard water, might as well be wet concrete... Are their any effective ro systems that are affordable (under $200) and a huge question on the 3 day blackout... Would I do a 10÷ gravel vac after it or simply turn the light back on?
Smite
2500 Club Member
The BRS units are very well priced. One of the best purchases I've made for the hobby.
For the blackout I usually:
Siphon out as much dinos as possible with a water change
I add fresh carbon before blackout
I set my skimmer on the wetside to pull all die off
Turn off all lights including refugium
I use black trash bags to cover glass. You want to block as much ambient light as possible and mine is in a high traffic area so i cover the tank instead of blackout room.
During blackout check your skimmer daily to make sure it's not overflowing but is skimming wet. I feed fish very lightly.
By day 2 you'll be seeing the dino die off but hold out for the full 3 days.
I do a large water change after the third day and turn the lights back on. I replace carbon and return my skimmer to normal. Usually another form of algae follows to uptake the suddenly available nutrients, so if you have a refugium id run that photo period longer than normal for a few weeks.
For the blackout I usually:
Siphon out as much dinos as possible with a water change
I add fresh carbon before blackout
I set my skimmer on the wetside to pull all die off
Turn off all lights including refugium
I use black trash bags to cover glass. You want to block as much ambient light as possible and mine is in a high traffic area so i cover the tank instead of blackout room.
During blackout check your skimmer daily to make sure it's not overflowing but is skimming wet. I feed fish very lightly.
By day 2 you'll be seeing the dino die off but hold out for the full 3 days.
I do a large water change after the third day and turn the lights back on. I replace carbon and return my skimmer to normal. Usually another form of algae follows to uptake the suddenly available nutrients, so if you have a refugium id run that photo period longer than normal for a few weeks.
So first water change would be fine around 10÷ ish and, you think the carbon would need to be replaced only 3 days later? The final day water change would be around 50÷ I'm guessing? And at the end of it all on the third day... What if I leave my skimmer a bit high and lightly dose no3po4-x to keep nutrients a bit lower to lessen the chance of a new algea? I'm only questioning to keep conversation going, get more thoughts out their and try to clarify some points. I greatly appreciate your help and information
That's a super funny thought, fair to mention I only have 1 power head and constant flow in the same direction, I know it's not the best idea and I personally don't like it... But it works and the price of 2 mp40's W/ a controller is pretty high (in my opinion)My toadstool got droopy when it didn't have enough flow, maybe it got a bit lazy
Smite
2500 Club Member
First water change is basically whatever it takes to remove the majority of the dinos. Probably about 10%.
Dinos can release toxins when they die off which is why I change carbon back to back like that. It's probably not a must but i do it for peace of mind.
I usually do a 25-30% water change after the blackout.
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