Dumping LED and reuniting with Halide - How To

[DuesXX]

Ok, so I'm feeling my forray into the LED world is at its end and I'm wanting to go back to the old tried and true MH/T5 combo of yesteryear. Anyone done this or have any suggestions? This tank started on LED. It's. 60 gallon.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

A par or lux meter. And acclimate slowly. At the same intensity(lux) a MH(t5) has better spectrum thus more Par. I think a 30% or more reduction in intensity on the new fixture should be sufficient.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lighting-upgrade-with-a-lux-meter-saltyfilmfolks.248417/

if the t5 mh dont dim Id use tape, paper or window screen or physical height to reduce intensity.

 

[120reefkeeper]

You could also shorten the photo period.

 

[Armydogracing]

Id like to suggest maybe the mh/led hybrid from reefbrite they look great and are more energy efficient from everything I have read

 

[mcarroll]

If you *really* want to go back and it's not gonna break the bank, then do whatever makes it fun! :)

But if you're already invested in LED, then I'm with @saltyfilmfolks – acquiring a light meter of any kind will change your experience in lighting dramatically.

In fact, I'd get one whether you switch lights or not! It's a generally hand, very inexpensive tool!

A free lux meter app will get you started, but a handheld lux meter is the way to go. Handhelds cost less than $15, delivered, but they do take time for delivery, so the app is fun to play with and get started with the ideas while you wait. ;)

A PAR meter is a nice upgrade. But don't hold out on using a light meter if you can't afford a PAR meter right away. Start with one of the first options mentioned! :) If you still have the lux meter when you get your PAR meter, you can make a PAR:lux conversion factor for your lights.

It's worth noting that Milwaukee makes a lux meter nicely upgraded with a submersible probe for about $60.

And Hydrofarm makes a decent looking "quantum par meter" for $150.

(Hydrofarm also appears to offer what look like rebranded Apogees in the usual higher cost brackets.)

 

[reefwiser]

Just finished doing this

After using LED's both Kessil and Radions
I was tried of not seeing the growth I know is possible. It is not really not hard at all. LED requires lots of adjustment to not kill corals.
MH requires you to just install the light 12 to 14 inches above the water. After a 100 hour burn in
The light will be at a steady light level. I placed my corals low on the bottom then slowly move them up. Some SPS love lots of light so you slowly move them up towards the top of the tank.
I am already getting the growth that I had been missing before the switch. Having kept SPS since 1990 under MH AND T5. I am happy to be seeing my corals growing everyday again.

 

[DuesXX]

Just finished doing this

After using LED's both Kessil and Radions
I was tried of not seeing the growth I know is possible. It is not really not hard at all. LED requires lots of adjustment to not kill corals.
MH requires you to just install the light 12 to 14 inches above the water. After a 100 hour burn in
The light will be at a steady light level. I placed my corals low on the bottom then slowly move them up. Some SPS love lots of light so you slowly move them up towards the top of the tank.
I am already getting the growth that I had been missing before the switch. Having kept SPS since 1990 under MH AND T5. I am happy to be seeing my corals growing everyday again.

See, that's my thing. I'm burning my coral with these stupid leds. Or I'm backing them to far away and they aren't getting the right light. I miss the good old days of hang it and go. And I can't get the color I used to under MH with the right T5. I think I'm going to go back with the Cebu Sun from Hamilton. Just have to figure out a cooling situation. But you're saying you brought everything to the bottom and started over basically? Coral wise I mean.

 

[DuesXX]

If you *really* want to go back and it's not gonna break the bank, then do whatever makes it fun! :)

But if you're already invested in LED, then I'm with @saltyfilmfolks – acquiring a light meter of any kind will change your experience in lighting dramatically.

In fact, I'd get one whether you switch lights or not! It's a generally hand, very inexpensive tool!

A free lux meter app will get you started, but a handheld lux meter is the way to go. Handhelds cost less than $15, delivered, but they do take time for delivery, so the app is fun to play with and get started with the ideas while you wait. ;)

A PAR meter is a nice upgrade. But don't hold out on using a light meter if you can't afford a PAR meter right away. Start with one of the first options mentioned! :) If you still have the lux meter when you get your PAR meter, you can make a PAR:lux conversion factor for your lights.

It's worth noting that Milwaukee makes a lux meter nicely upgraded with a submersible probe for about $60.

And Hydrofarm makes a decent looking "quantum par meter" for $150.

(Hydrofarm also appears to offer what look like rebranded Apogees in the usual higher cost brackets.)

I think Amazon had those. But I couldn't tell if they were ACTUALLY PAR meters or not. Reviews were very spotty at best. As far as the bank goes, I'm more interested in spending what I have to to make sure my coral is healthy. Got more cash in them then a light ever will.

 

[DuesXX]

The only other thing I considered is going with a hydra 52.. but I'm not sure about the coverage aspect. And I'm afraid I'll still have the same battle with "getting it right" that I just never had with MH. Any thoughts?

 

[DeniseAndy]

+1 on acclimation slowly. Screens (just any screen cloth thrown over the tank and taken off in layers will help with not moving the corals. This is how I handle my bulb changes with my MH and t5s. I add screen material in two or three layers and remove one every couple days. Never had a burn yet. :)

Also, expect a huge jump in electric costs and heat increase in the tank. I am sure you know that already. I think any day I will be in a seize situation when I see my bill compared to normal households. :rolleyes:

 

[Marc.The.Shark]

Id like to suggest maybe the mh/led hybrid from reefbrite they look great and are more energy efficient from everything I have read

+1, get a Reefbrite with a dimmable ballast. I think they're dimmable to like 50% on the MH

 

[Winschuc]

Did the same thing a few months ago - couldnt get consistent results with hydra 52s.

If you mount the MH with a wire hanging kit, you could raise the light up and physically lower it on the cables after some time.

 

[reefwiser]

When you use the 1-10 DC control box the reefbrites can dim down to 30% for the MH ballast.

But you're saying you brought everything to the bottom and started over basically? Coral wise I mean.

Yes, I am just really careful about light shock. I have all my SPS at the bottom of the tank and will bring them up slowly. Also have my friend Steve Tyree bringing me some SPS that like high light for the upper area of the tank.

 

[DeniseAndy]

Problem I have is I cannot move my corals around each time I change bulbs. :) So, I go for screens. Now, if I had dimmable ones, that would help a ton! Mine are too old for that. :)

 

[DuesXX]

When you use the 1-10 DC control box the reefbrites can dim down to 30% for the MH ballast.

Yes, I am just really careful about light shock. I have all my SPS at the bottom of the tank and will bring them up slowly. Also have my friend Steve Tyree bringing me some SPS that like high light for the upper area of the tank.

What size tank do you have? Would one pendant work for my 60?

 

[reefwiser]

I have a IM 40 which is about 48 gallons. I have a 150 watt DE unit. One would work for sure. Your tank is 24"inch wide right?

 

[DuesXX]

I have a IM 40 which is about 48 gallons. I have a 150 watt DE unit. One would work for sure. Your tank is 24"inch wide right?

Um, Im pretty sure my dimensions are 36L x 24H x 18W

 

[DuesXX]

Ok so I ended up buying that Cebu sun off a guy. He paid for the dimmable ballast from Hamilton for the MH. Should I start at the lowest and work my way up I'm guessing? How slow? Over a few days weeks?

 

[reefwiser]

A week should be fine.