Durso Or Stockman Standpipe? Wow! What A Difference!?

JBKReef · Jun 13, 2018

Salty.Reefer said:
Hopefully mine dosnt overflow one day. Making me nervous lol

How do you think I feel

;Bored

pjr · Jun 13, 2018

I've never heard of one failing... been running them on my tank for over a decade. that is so odd. ..

jsker · Jun 13, 2018

JBKReef said:
Did you not even bother with the Durso? I've been contemplating a change with my cube build right now. I have the standard plumbing that came with my Marineland 93 reef ready tank but it is SO loud in my living room. Its functionally fine but acoustically horrible.

There is a small hole drilled in the return line that is supposed to be a siphon break I believe but it shoots out water constantly and creates a very noisy atmosphere. And completely useless because the water drains back into the sump from that hole slowly until the water is flush with it.

Everything still flowing quietly?

I did not bother with the dorso. It is still sitting on my workbench

Yes still quiet.

jsker · Jun 13, 2018

jd371 said:
After setting up my 75g right next to where I watch TV I couldn't have a noisy overflow. I have an eshopps pf800 overflow and it was way too noisy out of the box. I made a Stockman Standpipe to quiet it down. The first one I made looked exactly like the one in the video above. I noticed that when cleaning the overflow and taking apart the standpipe that rubber O ring would leave a black residue on my hands. I don't think the water level ever reached that part of the Stockman where the rubber O ring sits, but I didn't want to take a chance of having whatever was coming off that rubber in the tank.
I replaced that coupler and rubber O ring with the fitting below. It's snug enough to hold it's position on the PVC drain tube and I'm able to get rid of the rubber O ring.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Genova-3-4-in-dia-Adapter-CPVC-Fittings/3341714

That is a great piece of information, when I give the standpipe a clean I will swicht out the rubber gasket with silicone O rings link

jsker · Jun 13, 2018

Salty.Reefer said:
Here is the Durso I built. It’s 1.5in and uses a airline valve I found at Home Depot. Super quite but sometimes takes a little bit to start back up after turning off the return. No glue involved!

Great Idea with the valve.

Salty.Reefer · Jun 13, 2018

jsker said:
Great Idea with the valve.

Thanks! 20 minute build thanks to Lowes

KenO · Jun 13, 2018

JBKReef said:
I do not, and its so random when it does or doesn't work. I have not been able to 1) isolate the problem, or 2) make the problem repeat

My waterline is about an inch below the rim of the tank normally but when the return is shut off for feeding or water changes it either works as it should or begins to raise up the glass. I usually have about 20 second to catch it if it fails...

What is your height difference of the water in your tank and the Durso in the outer box? I found that I had to cut the 90degree elbow as short as possible to make the Durso flow faster. I’ve found that the Durso design reduces the amount of water flow going through the overflow. If you can cut the elbow and make the Durso sit lower it works better.

Forsaken77 · Jun 14, 2018

JBKReef said:
Did you not even bother with the Durso? I've been contemplating a change with my cube build right now. I have the standard plumbing that came with my Marineland 93 reef ready tank but it is SO loud in my living room. Its functionally fine but acoustically horrible.

There is a small hole drilled in the return line that is supposed to be a siphon break I believe but it shoots out water constantly and creates a very noisy atmosphere. And completely useless because the water drains back into the sump from that hole slowly until the water is flush with it.

Everything still flowing quietly?

You can actually zip tie a piece of coarse filter floss over that hole. One tie above, one below. A coarser pad so it won't get clogged as easily, but still allow air, and it won't shoot the water out (it is above the water line in the overflow so no dirty water should be sucked into it). Water will still come out, but it won't shoot out noisily.

Bob Escher · Jun 14, 2018

I have tried the stockman to no avail. I have the CPR90 have had for three years now. It has a flex type drain line on it and I think that’s part of the problem. Length of your drain also has something to do with the noise. I’m going to try the Douso now that I see how it is done. I see that Skimz has one out as well.
Although my tank sits in my living room it seems after a water change to quiet down after a day or so

Bob Escher · Jun 14, 2018

jsker said:
I decided to finally quiet down my CPR CS90 overflow after years of the gurgling and sucking sound in the background. Wow! What a difference!? It only took about 10 minutes to build. Since I had to wait 24 hours for the glue to dry right for safety for the system, after building the Durso. I decided to use the Stockman standpipe first because no glue is needed.

Doing research, I found the Durso type standpipe first (LINK). I watched a couple of videos and decided to give it a try. A few hours later, I started putting my parts list together, then I discovered this thread here on R2R (LINK). I read through the thread, and it was suggested that the Stockman standpipe is quieter than the Durso standpipe. Then, I found a video on how to make a Stockman standpipe. I decided to stay with the Stockman standpipe because it worked.

Parts list for the Durso:

1” schedule 40 PVC 5” long cut in half, so that there is 2 x 2.5” sections, making sure the air intake is 1” above the overflow in the back the overflow box.

1” T-fitting

1” Street 90

1” Cap

A saw or PVC cutter, PVC glue, and a 13/64 drill bit for the air inlet hole.

One can adjust the flow by sticking some air line in the air inlet hole with an adjustable air line fitting

Picture of air line adjuster

Picture of stand pipe

Parts list for the Stockman

1” schedule 40 PVC cut 7.5 inches long, making sure the air intake is 1” above the overflow in the back the overflow box.

1” repair compression coupling just for the rubber washer.

1 ¼ “coupling to fit over washer and drilled holes

1” cap

13/64 drill bit for air inlet hole

15/16 drill bit for water intake holes

Air line and air line adjustment fitting

I measured up two inches up from the bottom and made a line. Then measured up another inch to where my washer will be. I drilled 5/16 holes in the one-inch section randomly to let the water into the pipe. Slide the 1 ¼ fitting down over the washer to the two-inch mark. Drill a 13/64 hole in the top cap, push in your airline and adjuster. Place in overflow and adjust the flow with the airline adjuster. It will take a couple of tweaks but wow what a difference.

Picture of Stockman

Video of the noise reduction

In your video your not showing all the pieces that come with the CPR 90 to help make it quieter either, the sponge the tube

jsker · Jun 14, 2018

Bob Escher said:
I have tried the stockman to no avail. I have the CPR90 have had for three years now. It has a flex type drain line on it and I think that’s part of the problem. Length of your drain also has something to do with the noise. I’m going to try the Douso now that I see how it is done. I see that Skimz has one out as well.
Although my tank sits in my living room it seems after a water change to quiet down after a day or so

My sump is located remotely and the drainline is about 8' to the sump with 9 90's with 1.25 brewers braided Kuriyama PVC Discharge Food and Beverage Hose - Clearbraid K3150 Series RF Standard Wall

Bob Escher said:
In your video your not showing all the pieces that come with the CPR 90 to help make it quieter either, the sponge the tube

I took the sponge out of the equation long ago, the sponge was a nutrient trap, and when the sponge start getting clogged the overflow water level would rise. I did not want the happening, and if I were not here water overflowing on the floor. I still had noise using the cage and tube that came with it. After many adjustment I would still have the slurping off and on.

Bob Escher · Jun 14, 2018

jsker said:
My sump is located remotely and the drainline is about 8' to the sump with 9 90's with 1.25 brewers braided Kuriyama PVC Discharge Food and Beverage Hose - Clearbraid K3150 Series RF Standard Wall

I took the sponge out of the equation long ago, the sponge was a nutrient trap, and when the sponge start getting clogged the overflow water level would rise. I did not want the happening, and if I were not here water overflowing on the floor. I still had noise using the cage and tube that came with it. After many adjustment I would still have the slurping off and on.

I rinse my sponge and cage when at home at least twice a week. I guess I’m anal in those things. My sump is inside my stand. I also have a float valve if the water level rise too high it stops the return pump)

jsker · Jun 14, 2018

Bob Escher said:
I rinse my sponge and cage when at home at least twice a week. I guess I’m anal in those things. My sump is inside my stand. I also have a float valve if the water level rise too high it stops the return pump)

Let us know how the dorso works for you.

Bob Escher · Jun 14, 2018

Will try thanks

jaxteller007 · Jun 14, 2018

Bob Escher said:
In your video your not showing all the pieces that come with the CPR 90 to help make it quieter either, the sponge the tube

I have the sponge and tube on my CPR 90 and it's still loud as crap. It also seems like the tom's pump that i have on top to create suction if power is lost, is constantly sucking air and pumping water. I thought it would only kick in if power was lost.

jaxteller007 · Jun 18, 2018

Probably a silly question but do both of these standpipes just go over/replace the intake of your HOB overflow?

I have a CPR CS90 overflow and I want to quiet it down. It looks like both of these are pretty simple to make but not sure about how/where they install.