Early Water Parameters

HossAquatics

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Hey ya’ll,
My tank is finally cycled and has been for about a month, ive just been topping off and being patient about adding any inhabitants. I haven’t done any water changes. I measured my parameters the other day using all salifert tests and here they are
SG: 1.0235
NH3: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 100
PO4: 0
pH: 8.0
Ca: 350
KH: 5.7-6.1
MG: 1170

I know my nitrates are high and a water change will fix that, my phosphates are low and adding food for the inhabitants will raise that, but my main concern are the last three. They all seem to be low. Im doing some quick research on those right now but my question is, are these things that will be fixed with a water change/adding things to the tank? Or will i need to dose/add things to the tank to raise those. Is there one i should raise that will raise the others? Or would i need to raise each one individually? I know stability is most important so i dont want to go and mess with anything until i know exactly what to do. What do you suggest? This is my first saltwater tank so most of these parameters are new to me
 
Correct the SG to 1.025 with a water change and the other parameters should correct as well. On a 15 gallon I would do 4 gallons.

:cool:
 
Correct the SG to 1.025 with a water change and the other parameters should correct as well. On a 15 gallon I would do 4 gallons.

:cool:
After that research i also thought the salinity might be the answer lol. I need to get an ATO since i feel like i cant keep up with the evaporation. Some days its half way down, some days its almost at a danger level, some days its like i just filled it up. Im also still running it a little warmer for the bacteria but im about to tone it down. I forgot to top off before testing salinity the first time and almost had a heart attack when the hydrometer capped out
 
Stability is not everything, especially so early... biomme ranks right up there beside stability.

IDK, personally I would do a large water change and get a fish and some inverts and enjoy the tank.
 
Stability is not everything, especially so early... biomme ranks right up there beside stability.

IDK, personally I would do a large water change and get a fish and some inverts and enjoy the tank.
Thats also what i was thinking, just put something in the tank and itll sort itself out or at least not hurt anything. I was just worried that the coral wouldnt have what it needed. But like tahoe said i think if I raise the salinity just a bit during a water change everything should be closer to ideal parameters
 
Quarantine everything at this stage. I learned that lesson the hard way. It can all change in a flash if you add something carrying a parasite.
 
After that research i also thought the salinity might be the answer lol. I need to get an ATO since i feel like i cant keep up with the evaporation. Some days its half way down, some days its almost at a danger level, some days its like i just filled it up. Im also still running it a little warmer for the bacteria but im about to tone it down. I forgot to top off before testing salinity the first time and almost had a heart attack when the hydrometer capped out
Spend the 11.00 bucks on Amazon.
20250510_093948.jpg
 
Quarantine everything at this stage. I learned that lesson the hard way. It can all change in a flash if you add something carrying a parasite.
I dont have anything to QT in but i watch a bunch of top shelf aquatics stuff and learned that they have a nice QT system where everything is QT’d for 6+ months. So i might just order from there and then do the dips to get anything that was on there if there was anything. I understand thats not the best method but thats all i got at this point. What would you recommend?
 
How did you cycle the tank? The nitrate is so high that I suspect it is not accurate.
I started the cycle on march 16th using the dr tims method. It could also not be accurate due to the scoops for the tests. I was thinking about bringing a sample to my lfs and having them test it since i wanna see if my hydrometer is accurate
 
I started the cycle on march 16th using the dr tims method. It could also not be accurate due to the scoops for the tests. I was thinking about bringing a sample to my lfs and having them test it since i wanna see if my hydrometer is accurate

Ok, so there’s no way the Dr Tim method of adding 2 ppm ammonia, which becomes less than 5 ppm nitrate, can get you to 100 ppm nitrate unless you added 2 ppm ammonia many times.

Thus, I would not assume a water change is needed or useful.
 
Ok, so there’s no way the Dr Tim method of adding 2 ppm ammonia, which becomes less than 5 ppm nitrate, can get you to 100 ppm nitrate unless you added 2 ppm ammonia many times.

Thus, I would not assume a water change is needed or useful.
I added it once in the beginning. If you look at one of my previous cycling posts, youll see that it was recommended that i just add ammonia once. If you look at a graph of the nitrogen cycle, what i gathered from it is there is no dip in nitrate. That comes with WC. I havent done any changes so its just been rising. A water change after the cycle is recommended on the official dr tims instructions. I mean its been goin for almost two months with just topoffs. If a water change isnt useful, what would you recommend?
 
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Well, I disagree with Dr Tim. There’s no reason for a water change and your nitrate is not high.
I get that some people run high nitrates but i figured 100 was too high since people like to keep it in range of 0-25, with some saying even 50 os too high, or at least thats what the recommended range is that i see. I saw a post on here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/high-nitrates-100-ppm-in-freshly-cycled-tank.803572/ from a while back where a user was having the same exact issue with the same cycling process and salifert tests. His issue just resolved itself in 2 weeks. Im going to take a water sample into my lfs and see if any of my test kits are bad.
 
I get that some people run high nitrates but i figured 100 was too high since people like to keep it in range of 0-25, with some saying even 50 os too high, or at least thats what the recommended range is that i see. I saw a post on here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/high-nitrates-100-ppm-in-freshly-cycled-tank.803572/ from a while back where a user was having the same exact issue with the same cycling process and salifert tests. His issue just resolved itself in 2 weeks. Im going to take a water sample into my lfs and see if any of my test kits are bad.

As I thought I said super clearly: you do not have 100 ppm nitrate, but in case not…

Where would it come from?

Unless you boosted ammonia to 2 ppm 20 times, or have added massive amounts of foods that have decayed, it’s just test error.

Nitrate does not just appear.
 
As I thought I said super clearly: you do not have 100 ppm nitrate, but in case not…

Where would it come from?

Unless you boosted ammonia to 2 ppm 20 times, or have added massive amounts of foods that have decayed, it’s just test error.

Nitrate does not just appear.
When you said “your nitrate is not high” it came across as you saying 100ppm is not high. As i mentioned in the previous comment, i also think its test error and will be taking a water sample to my lfs
 
When you said “your nitrate is not high” it came across as you saying 100ppm is not high. As i mentioned in the previous comment, i also think its test error and will be taking a water sample to my lfs

Post 12 was clear. Change water if you want. It’s no worse than a waste of time and money.
 
Post 12 was clear. Change water if you want. It’s no worse than a waste of time and money.
I never viewed it as a debate. I misunderstood what you said and admitted that, and then agreed with what you were saying. I dont really understand whats going on here. Have a good one
 

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