Ecotech Radion G3 Pro or Orphek Atlantik V3
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mcarroll
10K Club member
Nothing about a 120 demands the intensity of the bigger XR30's and there are other factors that may be more important depending...
Check out these diagrams I designed just to illustrate the different coverage between two and four fixtures. For reference, these diagrams are hypothetically Radeon's mounted at the correct height for a 120 so that there's minimal or zero light-spill outside the tank.
It's pretty clear that two leaves a lot of gaps....and people get surprised by this for some reason and end up adding T5's or other auxilliary lights to make up for it.
YMMV....old-school halide lovers will probably see the coverage of two as a bit more normal....but even that depends what you're used to:
I think I'd at least consider XR15's and going with more units - at least three.
Check out these diagrams I designed just to illustrate the different coverage between two and four fixtures. For reference, these diagrams are hypothetically Radeon's mounted at the correct height for a 120 so that there's minimal or zero light-spill outside the tank.
It's pretty clear that two leaves a lot of gaps....and people get surprised by this for some reason and end up adding T5's or other auxilliary lights to make up for it.
YMMV....old-school halide lovers will probably see the coverage of two as a bit more normal....but even that depends what you're used to:
I think I'd at least consider XR15's and going with more units - at least three.
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fragit
2500 Club Member
Thanks I've seen these illustrations you did in an other thread. And as your theory is quite convincing I believe that the prices don't justify doing that. One Xr15 pro is 399, x3=$1197. Two Xr30 pros at 750x2=$1500. For the same number of pucks 4Xr15 would cost $1596. So would I probably be okay with 3 xr15? Probably would, but when I'm looking at the value of lighting I would essentially be saving $100 on the 4th puck if I went with the xr30s. Then of course is the argument of whether or not the pro models are necessary or not. This has been the battle in my mind for a couple months as I compile my equipment.Nothing about a 120 demands the intensity of the bigger XR30's and there are other factors that may be more important depending...
Check out these diagrams I designed just to illustrate the different coverage between two and four fixtures. For reference, these diagrams are hypothetically Radeon's mounted at the correct height for a 120 so that there's minimal or zero light-spill outside the tank.
It's pretty clear that two leaves a lot of gaps....and people get surprised by this for some reason and end up adding T5's or other auxilliary lights to make up for it.
YMMV....old-school halide lovers will probably see the coverage of two as a bit more normal....but even that depends what you're used to:
I think I'd at least consider XR15's and going with more units - at least three.
It is likely you won't find many with Orphek lighting experiences. From what I have read so far they are the Best . It's like the difference between Ferrari (Orphek) and BMW(pro3). You won't go wrong with Either. If the price is close, It's Orphek hands done. Just IMO that's the way the Data is going for me. Happy researching.
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fragit
2500 Club Member
Thanks for your input. I too have been having a hard time finding much in the way of anecdotal information. What info I have seen is from Orphek's web site. Let's be honest though I have not heard of any other hobby lighting company that is producing fixtures for both the hobbyist and public aquariums. That speaks a lot for their tech. I just haven't seen enough yet to completely sway my decision.
mcarroll
10K Club member
In general, yes, for the Pro models.
In terms of $/watt as well as $/sq ft I think the XR30's are most-justified for extra-deep tanks IMO. (Generalizing of course.) The problem with the $/puck formula is that it doesn't account for all the pucks being stacked up in the XR30's. Which goes back to how big a deal you think the shading issue is....only you know what you're used to, but it does drive some folks to spend A LOT more money "fixing" the shading. (There are other ways folks "deal" with it too.)
I'd say if you're used to T5 you ought spend your money with an eye toward getting a similar light-field out of your LED's.
That could mean refocusing on a strip-oriented solution like the Orbit Marine Pro's (only $900-$1300 for a pretty comparable setup), or just getting a"puck" solution that lets you spread the pucks out as you see fit like the XR15 Pro's.
If you've always had all-halide lighting, then maybe you won't have to worry at all about the difference. (In which case, stop me cuz you can do that with any and all of these options...
)Also don't forget that at least in theory you're doing this for a superior solution at the end of it....that's possibly worth paying a little extra for if you think that's actually being accomplished.
But...
Are you up for considering the fairly-similar AI Hydra's? I think maybe the 26HD might be an even better fit. and gives you a $50/fixture discount relative to the XR15 Pro.
I wish I could offer an opinion about the Orphek, but all I have is the website to go by...same as everyone. It's hard to imagine you could go too wrong in terms of ending up with a bum light that doesn't grow coral....but who knows what they are like beyond the baseline performance one would expect?
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fragit
2500 Club Member
I agree @mcarroll with everything you said. I have looked at the hydras and have seen some great looking systems in here that are using them. I however really don't like the physical look of those fixtures. As @scardall implied it's like buying an expensive car. I guess the thing I find the most compelling about the Radions over the Orpheks is the ability for users to share lighting schedules, the acclimation mode, and the simplicity and total connectivity of the reeflink with the lighting and pumps. For me it means saving big time cash on a controller, or not even using one as I prefer a more hands on approach to husbandry. There are a few other features of the radion controllability that are not necessarily needle but that I like ,such as the moon schedule. I also figure if I use the XR30s then I can switch out the two inside lenses one on each fixture to take care of any shading that I may have in the middle of the tank.
mcarroll
10K Club member
I will admit I'm not as familiar with the user-oriented features between them (AI vs Ecotech), but from what I know they all seemed pretty identical. (Certainly so from the coral's perspective...)
Have you seen someone switch only one lens on an XR30 like that?
I'm not sure a one-lens upgrade is going to do what you think it is.
Have you seen someone switch only one lens on an XR30 like that?
I'm not sure a one-lens upgrade is going to do what you think it is.
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fragit
2500 Club Member
I have not seen some one switch one lens, it was just an idea I had. I don't see why it wouldn't work, one wide angle lens on each fixture seems sensible in my mind, but your right maybe not do what I think.
mcarroll
10K Club member
I don't think it's a question of "won't work" but of "$800 for a hack?"
The only instance I can think of this on a commercial fixture was the old AI Sol's that had 40º and 70º lenses, if I recall correctly. Roughly the same idea on paper: to get the best of both lenses. They don't do it anymore either, so I don't think it works out as well as you might think....just adding 2+2 though....YMMV. I'd certainly try it if you're willing to pony up for the extra Radeon as well as the extra lenses.
At that $$$, however, I seriously think I'd consider spreading out your emitters instead by going XR15 Pro or Hydra 26HD. Depending on tastes, I think this is the better solution in terms of addressing spread of light in the tank.
You kinda winced at the extra few bucks of the XR15 route, but it doesn't seem like you're all that budget sensitive in the final analysis. I think I'd look at that and the Hydra option some more and then sleep on them.
BTW, what lights are you used to using in the past - your pre-LED preference? Halide? T5? A combo? (I mean for preference on a a single tank and fixture....not what your whole lighting experience is.
)
twilliard
Tank pests..
I don't have a build thread but sure can show you!
Now my fixture is the 2.1b compact so smaller and white.
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fragit
2500 Club Member
And what is your analysis on these fixtures. I've seen you recommend them to other people. I emailed Scott, and he thinks for my application 2 V3 compacts would be best. Price is comparable to Radions. I've been searching for reviews online, but all I can find are videos of Scott at MACNA doing interviews. I can't seem to find any reviews by actual users, well that are in English any way.I don't have a build thread but sure can show you!
Now my fixture is the 2.1b compact so smaller and white.
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fragit
2500 Club Member
I've used T5, and then switched to LED. My last fixture was a DIY set up from Rapid LED. I've thought about adding to it to save money, however have decided against it. For my current build it is being required (the wife) to have a much cleaner polished look. Also I can use that set up on the 40breeder that I made it for which is going to be my refugium.I don't think it's a question of "won't work" but of "$800 for a hack?"
The only instance I can think of this on a commercial fixture was the old AI Sol's that had 40º and 70º lenses, if I recall correctly. Roughly the same idea on paper: to get the best of both lenses. They don't do it anymore either, so I don't think it works out as well as you might think....just adding 2+2 though....YMMV. I'd certainly try it if you're willing to pony up for the extra Radeon as well as the extra lenses.
At that $$$, however, I seriously think I'd consider spreading out your emitters instead by going XR15 Pro or Hydra 26HD. Depending on tastes, I think this is the better solution in terms of addressing spread of light in the tank.
You kinda winced at the extra few bucks of the XR15 route, but it doesn't seem like you're all that budget sensitive in the final analysis. I think I'd look at that and the Hydra option some more and then sleep on them.
BTW, what lights are you used to using in the past - your pre-LED preference? Halide? T5? A combo? (I mean for preference on a a single tank and fixture....not what your whole lighting experience is.
twilliard
Tank pests..
I love the fixture
Took a little while to get my schedules figured out but a PAR meter would have helped me a ton during that time.
Once I got a PAR meter just took me a few days to set it up
Scott is a great guy and so is the owner!
I am switching to the v3 as soon as I sell my fixture (they have made spectrum changes that I appreciate )
Took a little while to get my schedules figured out but a PAR meter would have helped me a ton during that time.
Once I got a PAR meter just took me a few days to set it up
Scott is a great guy and so is the owner!
I am switching to the v3 as soon as I sell my fixture (they have made spectrum changes that I appreciate )
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