Emergency!! Phosphates overdose

[dennislagoon]

I think I just nuked my 21g nano tank.

I was working on my phosphate dosing tube that had an air pockets problem. I let it it run for quite a while but there wasn’t happening much, thought there was a blockage somewhere in the tube.

.. until I figured I was checking the wrong dosing tube. I feel immensely stupid!!

It dosed quite a substantial amount and my Hanna ULR checker flashes at 0.90 as it can’t read higher.

To top off my luck, I just run out of salt so a quick WC wouldn’t be sooner than tomorrow when I am able to get some. I have no second tank either.

I have some LPS and some SPS. They’re pretty much goners, right?

What are the best steps I can take from here?!

 

[soreefed]

Go to Petco and get something that removes phosphate? Some petcos also sell boxed salt water for a high premium

 

[Lavey29]

I think I just nuked my 21g nano tank.

I was working on my phosphate dosing tube that had an air pockets problem. I let it it run for quite a while but there wasn’t happening much, thought there was a blockage somewhere in the tube.

.. until I figured I was checking the wrong dosing tube. I feel immensely stupid!!

It dosed quite a substantial amount and my Hanna ULR checker flashes at 0.90 as it can’t read higher.

To top off my luck, I just run out of salt so a quick WC wouldn’t be sooner than tomorrow when I am able to get some. I have no second tank either.

I have some LPS and some SPS. They’re pretty much goners, right?

What are the best steps I can take from here?!

Not necessarily goners. Water changes do little to lower phosphates since they are bound in rocks and sand. I suggest you try half dose of phosphate RX and split the half dose into 2 doses. This will walk the phosphates down slowly.

 

[Miami Reef]

I believe all your corals will be fine. Keep us posted.

 

[EricR]

No experience with anything in the realm of >0.9 ppm PO4 and also don't keep any SPS so take my comments as food for thought only.

Water change as you mentioned is first thought and the fact that you have no salt on hand is unfortunate but I like the idea in post #2 -- you could buy water (or even salt) somewhere quick and go that route. (My guess is binding to rocks/sand isn't a huge issue this soon).

I say start running GFO however it's most convenient for a while and monitor especially over the first week.
*I doubt aggressive stripping right now is a concern given the spike was already an immediate change to chemistry

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I’d just see what happens in the next 48 h. I agree you may see nothing special, and phosphate will drop as well.

 

[Pod_01]

Just an idea, do nothing for now. Phosphate tends to bind to sand, rock etc… After 2 days see what value you get and maybe then do water change or try GFO.
Playing yo-yo with phosphate might be lot more detrimental, letting things ride out on its own might be less stressful.

Good luck,

 

[Miami Reef]

The good news is that your rocks will now be saturated, so you won’t have to dose phosphates anymore.

 

[dennislagoon]

Thanks for all the quick replies and tips. I’ll see what happens the next 2 days and will update here.

Really hope most of it pulls through.

 

[hunterallen40]

Thanks for all the quick replies and tips. I’ll see what happens the next 2 days and will update here.

Really hope most of it pulls through.

FWIW I agree with the above. You will likely be fine.

 

[jda]

One swing like this shouldn't do too much to healthy corals. It is constant swings that are usually an issue. Death would only come if the corals were already close, IMO.

If you have some LPS and SPS that do not like the higher po4, then you can always remove it later. Some corals just don't care at all whereas some might stop growing, look bad, etc. You just have to wait and see what kind that you have.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Not necessarily goners. Water changes do little to lower phosphates since they are bound in rocks and sand.

He just dosed the phosphate how would it be bound to anything?

I suggest you try half dose of phosphate RX and split the half dose into 2 doses. This will walk the phosphates down slowly.

How is is supposed to dose phosphate RX if he doesn't have any?

you were the 3rd poster in the thread but didn't read a word


OP - as others have said, not much you can do tonight, things will likely be fine but you should do a water change tomorrow when you get some salt. You may see the number come down on its own as well, as some of the phosphate is absorbed/sequestered in the rock and substrate, though imagine this is a slow process.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

He just dosed the phosphate how would it be bound to anything?

In the minutes to hours following dosing, a large fraction of it will stick to exposed calcium carbonate surfaces. By the time he posted here, it was mostly completed.

 

[BeanAnimal]

In the minutes to hours following dosing, a large fraction of it will stick to exposed calcium carbonate surfaces. By the time he posted here, it was mostly completed.

Well then I stand corrected then... Thank you for the clarification. I suppose that would also mean that the level in the water column should have dropped significantly too (a good thing) I suppose.

It would also follow that a water change would still be viable for lowering that water column values further, even if that did mean the substrate would give some back up to find equilibrium again?

The assumption being that we are talking about a single phosphate dose that drove the water column value up, but overall a small amount in the scheme of things. Unlike phosphates that have crept up over months/years where the system (for lack of better terms) is saturated?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Yes, I expect that 24 h later there was much less in the water than right after dosing. How much less will depends on how much exposed CaCO3 there is, but it can take up huge amounts.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Well then I stand corrected then... Thank you for the clarification. I suppose that would also mean that the level in the water column should have dropped significantly too (a good thing) I suppose.

It would also follow that a water change would still be viable for lowering that water column values further, even if that did mean the substrate would give some back up to find equilibrium again?

The assumption being that we are talking about a single phosphate dose that drove the water column value up, but overall a small amount in the scheme of things. Unlike phosphates that have crept up over months/years where the system (for lack of better terms) is saturated?

jda showed bare CaCO3 can take up many ppm of phosphate, but exactly how much in each tank will vary.

That's like why many folks starting with new bare rock get low phosphate for a while, and maybe dinos too, until it gets coated with stuff, including phosphate.

Long term, the rock and sand will acquire a level of phosphate dependent on the amount in the water. More in the water puts more on the rock.

 

[BeanAnimal]

jda showed bare CaCO3 can take up many ppm of phosphate, but exactly how much in each tank will vary.

That's like why many folks starting with new bare rock get low phosphate for a while, and maybe dinos too, until it gets coated with stuff, including phosphate.

Long term, the rock and sand will acquire a level of phosphate dependent on the amount in the water. More in the water puts more on the rock.

I was aware of that part, just not how fast or slow the update process was. I suppose that also depends on the delta between the water column and the substrate and their respective volumes.

I overfed for years - and it took a lot of effort to bring those levels back down (my LaCl adventures years ago). I assumed the (as is more common knowledge now) that my substrate was chock full of phosphate that continued to leach into the water column rather quickly as I removed it from the same water column. I think this is the scenario where people contend (rightfully so) that water changes are not efficient export method, simply due to the real volume that needs to be exported.

 

[jda]

If that level is still beyond the mechanical limits of the Hannah at .90, then a massive amount must have been added. The majority binds within an hour or two, but more will bind for a day or two as the saturated water makes it way into the nooks, crannies and whatever of the rock and sand.

A water change could have done a lot of good when the water was supersaturated, but once it get to equilibrium, then there are better ways to lower po4.

 

[dennislagoon]

So here's a 24 hour update.

It feels like I've been lucky so far. No short-term reaction whatsoever from my corals, fish or invertebrates.

As correctly stated above, my po4 level has come down. It currently reads 0.72. Still a huge number, but I'm happy to see it's now readable at all.

I'll do another test tomorrow. Meanwhile, I'm thinking of ways I could slowly lower my po4, assuming slowly would be better in my case. Did some reading, but open to suggestions.

I'm running this nano on a canister filter and without a skimmer, so I'm a bit careful with ideas like using lanthanum chloride. Also have my doubts of using GFO in a canister filter. Another idea is using Seachem Phosguard, but don't know if this will be sufficient enough.

Also, at what rate would be best to lower my po4 levels daily or even weekly?

 

[Pod_01]

Also, at what rate would be best to lower my po4 levels daily or even weekly?

Safe level I seen mentioned is 0.02 daily but that is when you are below the 0.1 level.
My suggestion just measure at same time each day and see where it ends up being stable.
Once you know what that level is you might do nothing. I seen no issues with my corals when PO4 was up to 0.5. This is assuming all other parameters are ok.