ESHOPPS Mariner 70 Build

What caused it to fail?

Also, I am not sure if it's available on the P1S but, on the P2S, one can make it so that there are no ridges on circular/eliptical parts. (See in the front, white section of the round piece.)
That's the support. I leave the brim/raft settings on the supports since they're fairly thin.

It fails at it gets taller supposedly because it starts "wiggling" for lack of a better word. I've seen a couple of posts showing some tricks for stabilizing this. I just went from 1.5mm thickness to 2mm thickness. Still allowed some wiggling but it didn't fail this time, just has a little surface wrinkling.
 
That's the support. I leave the brim/raft settings on the supports since they're fairly thin.

It fails at it gets taller supposedly because it starts "wiggling" for lack of a better word. I've seen a couple of posts showing some tricks for stabilizing this. I just went from 1.5mm thickness to 2mm thickness. Still allowed some wiggling but it didn't fail this time, just has a little surface wrinkling.
You could also adjust the height of the nozzle. I have done this on several prints with good results.
 
Is this for the frag tank or like yo hold frags in the display between rocks?
To have "floating" frags. I have a gift card that's going to be used for a 10 pack of SPS eventually. First I need to either buy or make a couple of new rocks - the two main ones for the SPS islands are currently housing previously 3 Joker Anemones, now 7 or 8 or 15 (it's really hard to tell). But even with those two rocks replaced I'll need a few extra frag holders.

1786921666412.png


The red is actually black, the blue is actually grey.
 
You could also adjust the height of the nozzle. I have done this on several prints with good results.
I did that on the Ender. Might give it a try on the P1S.
 
To have "floating" frags. I have a gift card that's going to be used for a 10 pack of SPS eventually. First I need to either buy or make a couple of new rocks - the two main ones for the SPS islands are currently housing previously 3 Joker Anemones, now 7 or 8 or 15 (it's really hard to tell). But even with those two rocks replaced I'll need a few extra frag holders.

1786921666412.png


The red is actually black, the blue is actually grey.
Slick. Easy enough to beef up the arm and/or have multiple arms holding two or three rows of holders. Would also be cool to have them be height adjustable but that would require more engineering.
 
Slick. Easy enough to beef up the arm and/or have multiple arms holding two or three rows of holders. Would also be cool to have them be height adjustable but that would require more engineering.
I've redesigned the holder for the XF330s. The old one snapped a few weeks back so I reinstalled the magnet. Since then I've had an explosion of GHA so I'm fairly certain I have a magnet rusting. I beefed the bracket and increased Z-Hop and added a printing stabilizer bar to hopefully remove the "wiggles" I was getting in the other prints which result in weak points.

I was considering printing a hanging frag holder that would clip to the bracket for the XF330. I wondered if the constant vibration of the pump would be detrimental to a frag though.
 
I wondered if the constant vibration of the pump would be detrimental to a frag though.
Who knows? It could be beneficial. There's only one way to find out.
 
Printing a forest of trees!

4202.png

This is the newest redesign of the XF330 hanger to get the magnet out of the tank. After this is printed I'll likely redesign the Jump 2K hanger and reprint that one as well and then I need to get that Orca installed and remove one magnetic frag rack eventually.
 
Printing a forest of trees!

4202.png

This is the newest redesign of the XF330 hanger to get the magnet out of the tank. After this is printed I'll likely redesign the Jump 2K hanger and reprint that one as well and then I need to get that Orca installed and remove one magnetic frag rack eventually.
Interesting idea with the gyre hangers to remove the magnets. Can you show this one when its done? I'd like to ponder it a bit.
 
Interesting idea with the gyre hangers to remove the magnets. Can you show this one when its done? I'd like to ponder it a bit.
1786984841464.png

Ignore the extra fitting there off to the right - that was attempt #1 and it needs beefed up if I were to use it to minimize/reduce filament required for these. The bracket was too weak and snapped when the gyre was hanging before I even turned it on.
94.png
 
Let me see if I can find the picture of this thing actually installed.
 
Nope, no pictures. I'll to remember to grab a picture of it when it's done.
 
1786984841464.png

Ignore the extra fitting there off to the right - that was attempt #1 and it needs beefed up if I were to use it to minimize/reduce filament required for these. The bracket was too weak and snapped when the gyre was hanging before I even turned it on.
94.png
1786986042126.png

I doubt it on the stupid part. I've had more practice.
 
Here's maybe a better picture of the design that showcases the changes/upgrades I'm trying:
4204.png

That rod sticking out the back is a temporary stabilizer rod. The support will help hold the rise and keep it stable so it doesn't get those weak points from wiggling. When the support is removed, that rod will either come free with the support or easily be clipped off. I increased the back strap and bulked up the top hanger portion while keeping the pass through for the egg crate lid thin enough to fit between the glass and the lid.
 
Here's maybe a better picture of the design that showcases the changes/upgrades I'm trying:
4204.png

That rod sticking out the back is a temporary stabilizer rod. The support will help hold the rise and keep it stable so it doesn't get those weak points from wiggling. When the support is removed, that rod will either come free with the support or easily be clipped off. I increased the back strap and bulked up the top hanger portion while keeping the pass through for the egg crate lid thin enough to fit between the glass and the lid.
I like it. I just may do something similar for the 40 Breeder. I already have the rim profile from my ATO sensor and tubing prints so it's just getting the profile for the Jump 2k and, other than the names on them, the IceCap 2k looks identical to the Jump 2k. They even use the same adapter cable to the WE/LE. I don't have a lid on the breeder yet as it only has three springer damsels besides the corals and so far none of the corals have tried to jump out. I may add a pink streak wrasse or possum wrasse soon so I need to rig some kind of a lid for it. Since there is no lid my brackets are pretty chunky. I may need to address that.
 
I like it. I just may do something similar for the 40 Breeder. I already have the rim profile from my ATO sensor and tubing prints so it's just getting the profile for the Jump 2k and, other than the names on them, the IceCap 2k looks identical to the Jump 2k. They even use the same adapter cable to the WE/LE. I don't have a lid on the breeder yet as it only has three springer damsels besides the corals and so far none of the corals have tried to jump out. I may add a pink streak wrasse or possum wrasse soon so I need to rig some kind of a lid for it. Since there is no lid my brackets are pretty chunky. I may need to address that.
Mine is the IceCap Jump 2K
 
I'll send you the Jump 2K file and the XF330 if you want and you can mess around with them for your tanks.
 
I'll send you the Jump 2K file and the XF330 if you want and you can mess around with them for your tanks.
Sure, I have a Maxspect Jump 2k, two IceCap 2Ks, which are identical except branding to the Maxspect one, and four Maxspect XF350 CEs.
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new