Ever had this weird phosphate problem?

[Steve1500]

I have 180 DT, w a 36G sump. Recently, I checked my phosphates with a Hanna checker (Low range, model 713). Results were .19-.25 over a course of 4-5 days. I did multiple water changes totaling about 60-70G. This did not make a dent in the phosphate levels. Other than a little cyano, which is normal in my tank, everything seems to be doing ok. Maybe it's because .23-.25 is not that big a deal. Tank is 2 years old. So.....


Out of curiosity, I checked my tap and RODI and both came out 0.0.

Then I checked out my freshly made SW in my brute bin and it was between .3 and .4 on a few different tests!

Went back and rechecked everything...Nitrates at 5-8 ppm, pH at 7.9-8.0, salt at about 1.025-1.026, all other parameters are stable.

So, my first assumption was that the hanna checker or the reagent were bad. But what confuses me is the RODI and tap are checking right (0.0).....Before I add the salt, I test the RODI. The problem arises after I add the salt to the bin.

My next assumption is that my salt (Brightwell NeoMarine) is bad (brand new bucket). Has anybody ever had high phosphates due to the salt?

BTW, my chaeto started dying a few months ago but it's out of stock everywhere. I feed 3 times a day but not heavy (20 fish/lots of coral). I also turned up my skimmer.

I have ordered more salt, more reagent and a Hanna checker phosphate calibration kit to rule some things out but this is driving me nuts. I also ordered some Brightwell phosphate remover in case the problem is really in my DT.

Thoughts?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I expect the salt mix test is an error somehow.

FWIW, water changes are not a good way to reduce phosphate as there is so much bound to rock and sand that will come off after a water change that even a 100% change might only cause a small drop.

 

[Super Fly]

I expect the salt mix test is an error somehow.

FWIW, water changes are not a good way to reduce phosphate as there is so much bound to rock and sand that will come off after a water change that even a 100% change might only cause a small drop.

Curious, if this is the case, what would be the best way to reduce PO4?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Curious, if this is the case, what would be the best way to reduce PO4?

Something that consumes it in the tank, like macroalgae or a phosphate binder such as GFO.

 

[Steve1500]

Curious, if this is the case, what would be the best way to reduce PO4?

I expect the salt mix test is an error somehow.

FWIW, water changes are not a good way to reduce phosphate as there is so much bound to rock and sand that will come off after a water change that even a 100% change might only cause a small drop.

Just tested my RODI bin and it’s reading 0.0. Same test process as always. Will retest sw bin again

 

[badams.one]

Just tested my RODI bin and it’s reading 0.0. Same test process as always. Will retest sw bin again

I'm curious on the outcome of your results as I'm obsessing over this as well. It sounds like we have a similar setup - two 44 gallon brutes in gray. One on top for RODI and one on the bottom to make the salt. I use pvc pipe, a pump and heater to prepare my salt water.

I've tested my RODI many times with all readings at 0, but I've heard hanna checkers won't accurately pick up phosphates in RO.

Regardless, as soon as I get fresh water in the bin, heat it and mix the salt I get a reading of .05 ppm. While it is low, it still drives me nuts as I feel it should be zero. I've recently gone as far as swapping out my RODI unit for the pro series with an additional DI resin to ensure no phosphates or silicates, and yet here I am getting a phosphate reading.

I'm curious if perhaps the brown gunk build up in the pvc pipes from years of use is causing this. I don't remember this ever being a problem until I started mixing my salt longer, typically over night for roughly 24 hours.

Thoughts?

 

[homer1475]

Those numbers are well within the margin of error for the hanna checker.

You guys are making problems out of something that really isn't an issue.

 

[Adamantium]

I’m having the same issue as OP. RODI measures 0 PPM, but freshly mixed SW (NeoMarine) measured .32 PPM. That’s well above the margin of error for the Hanna LR PO4 checker.

Anyone have thoughts?

 

[Backreefing]

One thing that will lower your phosphate level is dripping in some kalkwasser into your aquarium. Kalk is well known to reduce phosphate. And it ca boost ph a bit to . If I were you I would be setting up a dripping or doseing routine . I’m not saying rocket up your alkalinity and calcium, but a little may be what you need . Good luck

 

[burningmime]

One thing that will lower your phosphate level is dripping in some kalkwasser into your aquarium. Kalk is well known to reduce phosphate. And it ca boost ph a bit to . If I were you I would be setting up a dripping or doseing routine . I’m not saying rocket up your alkalinity and calcium, but a little may be what you need . Good luck

Kalk is just like this miracle potion. Raise pH, add alk and Ca in equal parts, reduce phosphate. Is there anything it can't do? Should I start adding it to my morning coffee?

 

[Backreefing]

Kalk is just like this miracle potion. Raise pH, add alk and Ca in equal parts, reduce phosphate. Is there anything it can't do? Should I start adding it to my morning coffee?

It may produce white teeth and strong bones

 

[Adamantium]

One thing that will lower your phosphate level is dripping in some kalkwasser into your aquarium. Kalk is well known to reduce phosphate. And it ca boost ph a bit to . If I were you I would be setting up a dripping or doseing routine . I’m not saying rocket up your alkalinity and calcium, but a little may be what you need . Good luck

Interesting, I’ve never heard that.

The crux of the issue, though, is that my new SW is showing a relatively high phosphate level, when it should be 0, or close to it.

 

[MnFish1]

I have 180 DT, w a 36G sump. Recently, I checked my phosphates with a Hanna checker (Low range, model 713). Results were .19-.25 over a course of 4-5 days. I did multiple water changes totaling about 60-70G. This did not make a dent in the phosphate levels. Other than a little cyano, which is normal in my tank, everything seems to be doing ok. Maybe it's because .23-.25 is not that big a deal. Tank is 2 years old. So.....


Out of curiosity, I checked my tap and RODI and both came out 0.0.

Then I checked out my freshly made SW in my brute bin and it was between .3 and .4 on a few different tests!

Went back and rechecked everything...Nitrates at 5-8 ppm, pH at 7.9-8.0, salt at about 1.025-1.026, all other parameters are stable.

So, my first assumption was that the hanna checker or the reagent were bad. But what confuses me is the RODI and tap are checking right (0.0).....Before I add the salt, I test the RODI. The problem arises after I add the salt to the bin.

My next assumption is that my salt (Brightwell NeoMarine) is bad (brand new bucket). Has anybody ever had high phosphates due to the salt?

BTW, my chaeto started dying a few months ago but it's out of stock everywhere. I feed 3 times a day but not heavy (20 fish/lots of coral). I also turned up my skimmer.

I have ordered more salt, more reagent and a Hanna checker phosphate calibration kit to rule some things out but this is driving me nuts. I also ordered some Brightwell phosphate remover in case the problem is really in my DT.

Thoughts?

Did you make sure to shake up the bucket?

 

[Backreefing]

Just don’t kick the bucket

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If real and not test error, phosphate may be in the salt, or it may be in your RO/DI water, but I would not worry about 0.3 ppm phosphate in new salt water. It still is not the main source of phosphate for your tank. Foods add much more.

 

[Adamantium]

Update! I spoke with one of Brightwell’s Technical Experts and he explained that they make NeoMarine in many small batches, and he suspects that I did, indeed, get a bucket from a batch that went out with a small phosphate issue.

Without prompt, not only did he offer to send a new bucket, he also offered either phosphate-e or their phosphate export media so I could continue using the current bucket. I went with the latter.

Needless to say, I’m very pleased with the outcome. I’ll continue to be a happy Brightwell customer.

 

[MnFish1]

Update! I spoke with one of Brightwell’s Technical Experts and he explained that they make NeoMarine in many small batches, and he suspects that I did, indeed, get a bucket from a batch that went out with a small phosphate issue.

Without prompt, not only did he offer to send a new bucket, he also offered either phosphate-e or their phosphate export media so I could continue using the current bucket. I went with the latter.

Needless to say, I’m very pleased with the outcome. I’ll continue to be a happy Brightwell customer.

I have always been very happy with their salt....! Congrats - thanks for the update

 

[Adamantium]

Well, I’m absolutely blown away. Not only did they send a full bucket of salt (with very fast shipping, to boot), they also included the ExtraxPhos phosphate and silicate remover, as promised, AND a container of Reef Blizzard coral food. Exceptional customer service.

Before anyone goes thinking about trying to get free stuff, though, they did confirm the batch number was a bad batch. Sorry

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'd measure the phosphate in it before fully praising them. lol

Strange to make a "bad batch" this way since it is not a normal ingredient that just got in too much or too little. Must have been a bad ingredient.

 

[Adamantium]

Fair point haha