Filter change priority
- Thread starter marmin10
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Like you I started my saltwater journey with some of my freshwater tendencies. I had a canister filter and while there’s no danger in using it, it’s not an ideal piece of equipment. The biggest reason is, I think, the problem you’re asking about. You have several chambers in the canister and how do you change or clean any of them independently of the other. If you put carbon in one section you have to take the whole thing offline to change it.
I started by adding a hang on back skimmer but eventually phased out the canister.
marmin10
New Member
Thanks for the reply. In this canister each section is divided. You are able to clean which ever one you want when you want. I just did not know if there was a preference which one you would want to do first over the other being that you wouldn’t want to change out everything at one time get rid of all your bacteria.
this is the key diversion away from freshwater:
you wouldn’t want to change out everything at one time get rid of all your bacteria.
it doesn't work that way in reef displays, specifically, exclusively to all other setups
the filter is not an integral/needed link for a reef display for one reason: the rocks we all stack in the middle of the setup, those are enough
it doesn't matter if you removed that filter instantly and never put it back: your filter in the reef display would not falter. that's only hard to believe due to freshwater training/filters are integral links because you need a lot of surface area to process nitrite conversion into nitrate so things aren't burned, reefs don't work that way.
nitrite is ignored in reefing, it can't burn due to chemistry reasons, and ammonia is all that matters and although the bacteria in that filter do process ammonia, they're not a critical link your rocks are always enough, in all reefs. if you have a medium amount of live rock or a large amount, it's enough, you don't even need a hang on back it's just among the options. this is why nearly all reefs you see have no such filters, they just use pumps.
**you still see people packing biomedia in sumps/biobricks and extra surface area
those too are a waste of surface area just the same.
you wouldn’t want to change out everything at one time get rid of all your bacteria.
it doesn't work that way in reef displays, specifically, exclusively to all other setups
the filter is not an integral/needed link for a reef display for one reason: the rocks we all stack in the middle of the setup, those are enough
it doesn't matter if you removed that filter instantly and never put it back: your filter in the reef display would not falter. that's only hard to believe due to freshwater training/filters are integral links because you need a lot of surface area to process nitrite conversion into nitrate so things aren't burned, reefs don't work that way.
nitrite is ignored in reefing, it can't burn due to chemistry reasons, and ammonia is all that matters and although the bacteria in that filter do process ammonia, they're not a critical link your rocks are always enough, in all reefs. if you have a medium amount of live rock or a large amount, it's enough, you don't even need a hang on back it's just among the options. this is why nearly all reefs you see have no such filters, they just use pumps.
**you still see people packing biomedia in sumps/biobricks and extra surface area
those too are a waste of surface area just the same.
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so that means
if you took all the media out and boiled it/doesn't matter
if you took the whole filter offline and never put it back, doesn't matter.
one way that filter can actually harm your setup is if you half clean it, then turn it on and pump a bunch of waste back into the display OR if a power outage happens, you're gone, all the bacteria+ mud die in the filter, then power comes and that pumps back into the tank it could kill your entire setup. those filters can be dangerous ironically, but not if the power stays running or if you'll just keep them clean. you can rinse it all out in tap water...that too doesn't matter, we didn't need any of the bacteria.
if you took all the media out and boiled it/doesn't matter
if you took the whole filter offline and never put it back, doesn't matter.
one way that filter can actually harm your setup is if you half clean it, then turn it on and pump a bunch of waste back into the display OR if a power outage happens, you're gone, all the bacteria+ mud die in the filter, then power comes and that pumps back into the tank it could kill your entire setup. those filters can be dangerous ironically, but not if the power stays running or if you'll just keep them clean. you can rinse it all out in tap water...that too doesn't matter, we didn't need any of the bacteria.
marmin10
New Member
maybe I’ve just done to much reading, lol.. maybe I should just do what the manual says and replace everything it says monthly. Lol.. I just haven’t had any issues with my tank and wanted to make sure I did everything right.
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It sounds like you want to utilize the canister. I respect that. Just be prepared to clean filter foam frequently and the carbon Bi-monthly. As the water enters the unit, first stage is foam, then carbon, then foam then any other media you would place.
Do realize the canister unit is a mechanical filter and you need biological and chemical filtration for total coverage. Your canister will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces.
Add a hang on skimmer such as Ice Cap K2-100 or K2-50 to remove inorganic waste
marmin10
New Member
I thought it was all of the above?
First thing it goes through would be the sponges, which would be for your mechanical, then you media for biological, and then your last one you can add for chemical filtration.
Am I mistaken?
First thing it goes through would be the sponges, which would be for your mechanical, then you media for biological, and then your last one you can add for chemical filtration.
Am I mistaken?
marmin10
New Member
There isn’t anything about this hobby that isn’t work. Just trying to do whatever will be most beneficial. I don’t mind putting in the time to make sure everything is clean and taken care of like it should. You’re telling me to just get a hang-on back filter but you’re not telling me anything about it. I already felt like the canister was more beneficial. I would like to hear your opinion on why you are saying to use the hang-on back filter instead?
blaxsun
10K Club member
There's working hard and then there's working smart. As @brandon429 mentioned, the tank is the primary bio filter. So if you want to stick with a canister follow the above advice and don't deviate.
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