Fish building/man cave build!

[dantimdad]

So small rant here: why are the wires out of the top and why is the TDS meter not backlit. It’s terrible to read it.

Does no one beside autoaqua (junk!) make a backlit triple TDS meter?

 

[tharbin]

So small rant here: why are the wires out of the top and why is the TDS meter not backlit. It’s terrible to read it.

Does no one beside autoaqua (junk!) make a backlit triple TDS meter?

Not that I've seen.

 

[dantimdad]

95/3/0 ppm

I wish the 3 were down to 1 but it's way better than it was.

 

[dantimdad]

Not that I've seen.

I may have to rig up something. because once it's in the cabinet it will become impossible to read.

 

[tharbin]

95/3/0 ppm

I wish the 3 were down to 1 but it's way better than it was.

That's really good. Be glad your not in Casa Grande typical for me is around 900/35/0. Feed hasn't gone below 600 in years. Occasionally it is over 1000. 18 years ago it was around 420. Plus during summer feedwater can easily be 80+ degrees.

 

[dantimdad]

My buddy dropped by and helped me move the tank in place. Just need to level it. The blocks are printing.

I’ll have it cleaned, sand and rodi going in by Tuesday. The new piece of silicone hose for the return will be here Wednesday and then I can fire up the heaters and return pump and power heads and get ready for salt. It’s rolling now!

 

[dantimdad]

So my buddy questioned my use of 3d printing blocks to level the tank.

So I did some asking to ChatGPT and here are the results

A 30mm ABS cube with 4 walls and 50% infill can support an estimated 200 to 500 lbs (approx. 90 to 225 kg) of downward compressive weight before deforming or crushing. [1]

At about 650 pounds total weight I do think it’s a problem to have 3 legs supported. None of them are that tall and the strength goes up the shorter they are. I also put ledges on two sides to keep them in place but not stick out.

 

[dantimdad]

Tank is level now.

I’ll keep an eye on it as weight gets added to make sure it stays that way and stable.

I am considering putting a 45 brace at the left side and back just for peace of mind. Never needed them before for extrusion but I never had one on this crooked of a floor either.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

So small rant here: why are the wires out of the top and why is the TDS meter not backlit. It’s terrible to read it.

Does no one beside autoaqua (junk!) make a backlit triple TDS meter?

HM Digital DM-3. It's not cheap, comparatively speaking, but it is back lit.

 

[dantimdad]

HM Digital DM-3. It's not cheap, comparatively speaking, but it is back lit.

Thanks! I ordered one.

It's a two channel so it will go pre and post DI. I will use the old one on the input water since I won't check it as often.

It isn't cheap but to me it's worth it.

 

[dantimdad]

I started cutting parts for the water change station. It's changed up a bit (big surprise) but will hold more water and be more convenient for me.

I also started laying out the control center and it's just a mess. This may take a while.

The replacement parts for the flipper screen top are out for delivery after running all over the country it seems. Gotta love USPS. lol I have some mods drawn up and will be posting progress on that as well this week.

 

[dantimdad]

So I have been working with Flipper to get my screen parts and get it assembled.

They came in yesterday and I got it assembled. However, with the parts supplied it was either 1/2" too bit or a 1/2" too small.

Not one to leave anything alone, I drew up a quick spacer and printed it. (I will remake it clear soon). It's the white line on the right.

This worked very well. Although I will probably have to glue it in before I stretch the screen on.

The other issue (And this is picky as all get out), there was a slight dip in the front and back so I made up these parts out 3mm cast acrylic:

Then glued them together. Not neat because I was out of 4 and had to use 16.

If you look in the first picture, you can see it installed and all the sag is gone and it fits perfect.

The screen I had wasn't clear so new, clear screen will be here today and I will get it installed.

This leaves another issue. The screen is resting on the overflow. I will probably cut the back off the inside box and move the pipe up 10mm which will effectively lower it 10mm and clear the screen. This will lower the water level at first until I fix the height of the drain tubes in the outside box.

The last thing I am going to do is print a feed door and a ring that will allow the return pipe to pass through the screen top.

I really like the idea of the modular screen top and the price is fantastic. I hope the information and files I sent flipper helps them to make improvements so they have a really great product.

I think those of us with the equipment and experience should offer a solution rather than complain about a product. This will help all of us out and keep costs down in the long run. Or maybe I am just an idealist and should stay in my lane. lol