Fish keep disappearing - need troubleshooting help

[TX_REEF]

Hello everyone. Over the past 2 months, I have lost (died and seen eaten by CUC or disappeared overnight) the below livestock. Please tell me what I can do to troubleshoot, this has become very discouraging! If you need any other info, please let me know...

flame angel
numerous snails
small xenia frag
2x diamond gobies
yellow eye kole tang
saltwater-adapted black molly (intended to use to check for parasites, disappeared today after 2 days in the tank).

Additional info:

all of the above disappearances were visibly healthy. Only exceptions are the kole tang which was barely breathing with a slightly damaged tail fin (otherwise no visible parasites, other damage) when i returned from work and died shortly thereafter, and the Molly, which was not visibly injured but was being chased by my small (~2.5" six line wrasse) the day before it disappeared overnight. The remaining fish (pair of occelaris clowns, six line wrasse) have been in the tank since the tank was fully cycled in April 2023 and are visibly healthy, eating well, etc. I have noticed that larger snails (astrea, turbos) also do not seem to survive in my tank for long.

Water:
1.026 SG, verified with digital meter and refractometer
0 ammonia (all chemistry verified with API and red sea test kits, along with 2nd API test at LFS)
0 nitrites
0-5 nitrates
8.2PH
78 degrees F at all times

Livestock:
~80 lbs of rock (started as dry rock, cycled with fritz turbostart and dr tims liquid ammonia)
caribsea live sand
pair of ocellaris clowns
six-line wrasse
2 cleaner shrimp
3 emerald crabs
small number of astrea snails
nassarius snails
assorted small "reef safe" hermits
sand-sifting star
2x2 inch green star polyps frag (this has not opened since i added it to the tank 2 weeks ago - it may be dead?)
1 head of hammer coral
2 small (1x1 inch) brain coral frags
1 green kryptonite candycane frag with 2 heads

Relevant equipment:
Redsea reefer 350 (350 liters total system, ~72 gal display) tank & sump
reef octopus skimmer
algae scrubber
reefmat mechanical filter
reef octo return pump
2x mp40s on opposite sides of back panel
kessil ap9x LED lighting (previously had on 630am-930 am with slow ramp up and slow ramp down, reduced this to 12 noon to 8pm per LFS advice) running Tuna Blue "full spectrum"

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

how old is the tank? do you use rodi water?

how about a tank pic? Everything looks good on paper, lets see what it looks like.

 

[TX_REEF]

how old is the tank? do you use rodi water?

how about a tank pic? Everything looks good on paper, lets see what it looks like.

Yes, RO/DI water via 5-stage BRS unit. Tank was filled at start of feb 2023, cycle completed roughly 6 weeks later in mid April. Recent pic attached, not sure if anything specific you want to see

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello everyone. Over the past 2 months, I have lost (died and seen eaten by CUC or disappeared overnight) the below livestock. Please tell me what I can do to troubleshoot, this has become very discouraging! If you need any other info, please let me know...

flame angel
numerous snails
small xenia frag
2x diamond gobies
yellow eye kole tang
saltwater-adapted black molly (intended to use to check for parasites, disappeared today after 2 days in the tank).

Additional info:

all of the above disappearances were visibly healthy. Only exceptions are the kole tang which was barely breathing with a slightly damaged tail fin (otherwise no visible parasites, other damage) when i returned from work and died shortly thereafter, and the Molly, which was not visibly injured but was being chased by my small (~2.5" six line wrasse) the day before it disappeared overnight. The remaining fish (pair of occelaris clowns, six line wrasse) have been in the tank since the tank was fully cycled in April 2023 and are visibly healthy, eating well, etc. I have noticed that larger snails (astrea, turbos) also do not seem to survive in my tank for long.

Water:
1.026 SG, verified with digital meter and refractometer
0 ammonia (all chemistry verified with API and red sea test kits, along with 2nd API test at LFS)
0 nitrites
0-5 nitrates
8.2PH
78 degrees F at all times

Livestock:
~80 lbs of rock (started as dry rock, cycled with fritz turbostart and dr tims liquid ammonia)
caribsea live sand
pair of ocellaris clowns
six-line wrasse
2 cleaner shrimp
3 emerald crabs
small number of astrea snails
nassarius snails
assorted small "reef safe" hermits
sand-sifting star
2x2 inch green star polyps frag (this has not opened since i added it to the tank 2 weeks ago - it may be dead?)
1 head of hammer coral
2 small (1x1 inch) brain coral frags
1 green kryptonite candycane frag with 2 heads

Relevant equipment:
Redsea reefer 350 (350 liters total system, ~72 gal display) tank & sump
reef octopus skimmer
algae scrubber
reefmat mechanical filter
reef octo return pump
2x mp40s on opposite sides of back panel
kessil ap9x LED lighting (previously had on 630am-930 am with slow ramp up and slow ramp down, reduced this to 12 noon to 8pm per LFS advice) running Tuna Blue "full spectrum"

This will be based on probability rather than cause without some history and pics but possibilities are:
New tank and not mature for some of the fish
Ammonia spikes which are often undetectable
False readings
disease such as flukes or velvet which are often unnoticeable until its too late
Agression from another tank mate
Salinity low or temperature elevated

Just some possibilities again

 

[TX_REEF]

I appreciate the suggestions - I guess from an experienced reefer point of view, what would you do in my situation to troubleshoot?

 

[Idech]

There seems to be no water agitation on the surface. I don’t see a powerhead. You should add one and aim it toward the surface to have good oxygenation for your fish.

The fact that inverts, fish and even easy corals such as GSP can’t survive in the tank would make me think there is a major problem with water quality. Do you do water changes ?

Do you add any chemicals at all ? Dose anything ?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

+1, I would also worry about lack of aeration. Is that a skimmer under the tank, that will help.

It is probable that the losses are not all related, but with fish and invertebrates dying and the GSP not expanding, there may be some correlation to an environmental issue.

Jay

 

[TX_REEF]

There seems to be no water agitation on the surface. I don’t see a powerhead. You should add one and aim it toward the surface to have good oxygenation for your fish.

The fact that inverts, fish and even easy corals such as GSP can’t survive in the tank would make me think there is a major problem with water quality. Do you do water changes ?

Do you add any chemicals at all ? Dose anything ?

I agree with the surface agitation - I always thought the motion from the MP40s would be enough but perhaps not. I added a powerhead now. For chemicals, I use garlic occasionally (once a week or less, 2 drops) in a shot glass to soak the fish food, seachem vitality to soak food as recommended by LFS after I told them fish are randomly dying, and brightwell aquatics liquid reef for coral vitamins and PH buffering.

 

[snackpack]

I agree with the surface agitation - I always thought the motion from the MP40s would be enough but perhaps not. I added a powerhead now. For chemicals, I use garlic occasionally (once a week or less, 2 drops) in a shot glass to soak the fish food, seachem vitality to soak food as recommended by LFS after I told them fish are randomly dying, and brightwell aquatics liquid reef for coral vitamins and PH buffering.

I'm by no means an expert but I feel you're dosing/supplementing way too much with no real reason.

That tank looks quite new, and from the picture I can only spot one coral. I'm not sure if it's got anything to do with the fish dying, but I'd cut back on all of that and just let the tank run. Others may have differing opinions.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I agree with the surface agitation - I always thought the motion from the MP40s would be enough but perhaps not. I added a powerhead now. For chemicals, I use garlic occasionally (once a week or less, 2 drops) in a shot glass to soak the fish food, seachem vitality to soak food as recommended by LFS after I told them fish are randomly dying, and brightwell aquatics liquid reef for coral vitamins and PH buffering.

Actually, the food dosing and low oxygen/aeration can go hand in hand - if you are just soaking food in additives, remember that they are going to rinse off the food just as fast as they soaked in! Many of their ingredients are oil-based. That oil can skim the surface of the water, and if you don't have good aeration to break it up, gas exchange can be cut off.....

The only food additive I ever use is thiamin/vitamin E paste that doesn't wash off. Otherwise, I rely on prepared foods that contain proper nutrition. NLS Spectrum is a good one.

Jay

 

[TX_REEF]

Update - I found the Molly, it was hiding in a black corner. I also added two power heads for surface agitation. The LPS corals look happier now! Will see how things progress. Thank you again for all the advice.

 

[TX_REEF]

I just want to add that I’m extremely frustrated with this tank. When I was in college 10 years ago, I had a total DIY rig system 20 long tank with 50 gal stock tank sump. It was more heavily stocked than this tank and everything thrived. I cannot overstate how irritated I am that I’ve purchased all of the “top of the line” equipment now that I have the means, but almost everything is failing to thrive!!!

 

[Mike1970]

I just want to add that I’m extremely frustrated with this tank. When I was in college 10 years ago, I had a total DIY rig system 20 long tank with 50 gal stock tank sump. It was more heavily stocked than this tank and everything thrived. I cannot overstate how irritated I am that I’ve purchased all of the “top of the line” equipment now that I have the means, but almost everything is failing to thrive!!!

just go slow 10 years ago you probably started with live rock from the ocean that looks like dry rock it’s going to take a little bit longer to cycle properly be patient

 

[Idech]

I also added two power heads for surface agitation.

That’s good ! Do you have them side by side ? If so, you might want to try having them on each side, with one higher than the other one (and aiming at the surface).

This will create a more natural current and leave less dead spots. You’ll have to play with the angles to get it right. It takes a while but once you’ll be pleased.

 

[TX_REEF]

That’s good ! Do you have them side by side ? If so, you might want to try having them on each side, with one higher than the other one (and aiming at the surface).

This will create a more natural current and leave less dead spots. You’ll have to play with the angles to get it right. It takes a while but once you’ll be pleased.

No, I have them in opposite corners pointing up and towards the center of the tank. Good advice though!

 

[Idech]

No, I have them in opposite corners pointing up and towards the center of the tank. Good advice though!

Oh, sorry. I thought I saw them next to each other on the picture. My bad !

 

[TX_REEF]

Oh, sorry. I thought I saw them next to each other on the picture. My bad !

Yes - on each side I have an MP40 and a power head, so 4 total. You saw right