Fishers cycle question...

Gwitness

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I have a about 250 gallons of water I'm cycling....the rock I am using is Dry rock...

I dumped in my bacteria about 2 weeks ago and then put in my correct dosage of ammonia....I let the cycle go until ammonia was at 0 and then I was going to put more ammonia in to see if it would go down to 0 a lot quicker than the first time....

My question is, my nitrites have been a dark purple 2-5ppm on API test kit for about a week in a half or so .....how long do I need to wait for nitrites to get lower??? My nitrates are also at 50ppm on salifert kit...PH is at 8.2

Also, do I need to keep adding ammonia??

Should my skimmer be running?

Any help would be great! Thanks!!
 

KJ

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414224

image via @rusticgirls

In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.

Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle

Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.

Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle

Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.

Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle

Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:
 
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Gwitness

Gwitness

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Should my phosphates be reading high at all? My phosphates are at 0.44 on Hannah checker?? Once cycle ends and I do a water change and get my refugium going
 

kashman100

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Google "Dr Tims guide to fishless cycling. It will answer all your questions
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Should my phosphates be reading high at all? My phosphates are at 0.44 on Hannah checker?? Once cycle ends and I do a water change and get my refugium going
double check the reading. it is possible there is a Po source, but check again first.
if its used rock. its very possible. its an easy fix though
 
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Gwitness

Gwitness

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Okay will do...I'll use some new reagent packets also just in case mine are bad
 

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