Generators 2023: Do you have one, what's the wattage & what equipment will you run with it?

[BZOFIQ]

Diesel/Gasoline are also very viable. The issue with both is fuel storage. Gasoline oxidizes and gains water over time. Use it or lose it kind of thing.. and how does one dispose of hundreds of gallons of stale gasoline. Diesel is far more stable but grows algae - this too is a maintenance nightmare for a stagnant tank that is rarely used. Even weekly exercise is not enough to keep stocks fresh and replenished. That is another issue. Constant top-offs (exercise uses fuel) so that when disaster does hit, you are full.

Just things to consider....

I store 25 Gallons in 5 Gallon Drums, that I dump into my car every year and fill with fresh premium.

Additionally, I always fill all 3 cars before major storm, just in case.

 

[Battlecorals]

I suppose it's Murphy's Law that now that I got this big old generator haven't had a single real bonafide power outage.lol by comparison, the last five years we've had probably had at least six or seven each summer last longer than maybe 8-9 hours

But I tell my wife and kids I'd much rather have the power on. I'm happy if the generator never has to run.

 

[tedfisher496]

As dedicated reefkeepers, we understand the importance of preparedness when it comes to our saltwater reef aquariums. For those who use a generator for backup power during unforeseen outages, we'd love to hear about your experiences and insights!

If so, we're curious to know what size generator you use and which essential equipment you power with it. Whether it's keeping your circulation pumps, heaters, protein skimmers, or even lighting systems active, we're eager to learn about the setup you have in place.

Please answer the following:

1. Do you have a generator to keep your reef aquarium running during power interruptions?

2. What wattage is your generator and what equipment do you intend to run with it?

please review the electrical codes (NFAP 70E) for generator installation. Most people think extension cords and back feeding panels is acceptable. Helping to spread awareness for generator insulation is necessary in this hobby.

 

[JTP424]

Baby Honda 1000W
Super quiet. But i only have a 15 gallon. I've got a UPS it runs off for a few hours. Then I switch it over when it looks like powers going to be out for a while...

 

[jda]

I just have a pair of 7500w pull start gasoline ones now. Never lost power in over 10 years since moving to Colorado, but I am prepared if we do. I probably need to let them run for a bit, but I can rebuild a carb on them with a flashlight in my mouth in about 5 minutes.

Had a big one in Missouri with a Ford v6 engine in it - forgot, but like 25 or 28 kw. It was natural gas with a propane backup. Auto transfer and all of that. It was nice and the family that bought our house choose ours over another home since we had the generator.

For those of you with natural gas generators, I hope that you can at least hook propane up to them. We had several tornados and ice storms in the midwest that interrupted natural gas for more than a week each time. Also, don't be thinking that 250 gallons of propane lasts a super long time... keep that thing filled or get a larger tank. That is 3-4 days or running full time, so unless you have a 1000 gallon tank that is full, then you still have to turn them off or run them at partial loads... and even then a pull-start to run a fish pump, heater and fridge/freezer might save you a lot of gallons of propane when you are getting low.

We had an ice storm that shut us down for three weeks and I had to get propane delivered twice. Luckily, this was no problem since I had a commercial account, but residences were not all getting filled.

I keep gas in 50 gallon drum with stablilizer in it. I use it for my mowers and golf cart too. Every year, fill up the cars and refill it when gas is cheaper - like when a new convenience store comes to town and has gas for $1.99, or something.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I store 25 Gallons in 5 Gallon Drums, that I dump into my car every year and fill with fresh premium.

Additionally, I always fill all 3 cars before major storm, just in case.

I don’t know what kind of cars you drive but will add two cents here.

You should always run the absolute lowest octane fuel that your owners manual allows for. High octane fuel is one of the purposefully most confusing specification out there. It is listed as "premium" "super" etc. to get people to buy it, while doing nothing but emptying their wallets.

Gasoline explodes under pressure. The higher the octane rating the higher the required pressure. (Read the less explosive the fuel )

Engines have a fixed compression ratio that differs by model. Lower compression engines operate on low octane fuel and higher compression engines operate on higher compression fuel. The simple idea being that you don't want the fuel to explode due to compression BEFORE the spark plug ignites it (this is called detonation).

Modern cars have computers that control fuel delivery and spark and sometimes valve timing. If you dump 97 octane fuel into your 87 octane rated engine, the computer simply adjusts the operating parameters to compensate. You get the same (or less) fuel mileage as you did with the 87 octane fuel at may times more the operating cost.

The fuel industry does not want you to understand this and instead markets their high octane fuels as "premium" with extra power and detergents and special formulas that the low octane alternative does not have. It is all BS aimed at separating you from your money.

****the exception here should be noted. If the low octane fuel has ethanol in it and the high octane fuel does not, then the higher octane fuel will store better. Ethanol does not store well. The same with mileage. 87 octane with 20% ethanol and 89 or 90 octane without may give a bit better mileage, but you would have to do the math for cost/mpg to be sure and even then the cheaper low octane fuel cost lest per mile.

Lastly - avoid ethanol blends whenever possible, it is power robbing crap and it is far from environmentally friendly and by just about any reasonable measure, far worse than crude based fuel.

 

[BZOFIQ]

I don’t know what kind of cars you drive ....

Two of my cars require regular and the other considered performance type (turboed engine) was designed with premium in mind

... but will add two cents here.

I expected nothing less from you. I'll keep it short, perhaps one cent worth.

You should always run the absolute lowest octane fuel that your owners manual allows for.

Exactly what I do, per above, per manual; 2 cars on regular, 1 on premium (most of the time)

If you dump 97 octane fuel into your 87 octane rated engine...

No such thing sold here , its 87/89/91 or 87/91/93

Lastly - avoid ethanol blends whenever possible, it is power robbing crap and it is far from environmentally friendly and by just about any reasonable measure, far worse than crude based fuel.

Only blends are sold city wide... but I buy small cans of enthanol-free gas at HD/LWS (at premium) for storing all small engine equipment between seasons. I never had one fail to start between the many I use.

 

[BeanAnimal]

No such thing sold here , its 87/89/91 or 87/91/93

I am predictable

It varies from state to state and decade to decade. 94 is typically the highest "premium" consumer grade. 97 or 98 can (or could in the past) be found at some fuel stations near race tracks. Avgas (aviation gasoline, not jet fuel) was also sometime sold near race tracks and was 100, 102 or 103 octane. It goes (If I remember) up to 130 octane, but I have never seen anything hight than 104 for sale at a pump.

I was just trying to make the point that extreme octane levels in lower compression engine serve no purpose and can actually rob power. The exact opposite of what most people think and are marketed.

Only blends are sold city wide... but I buy small cans of enthanol-free gas at HD/LWS (at premium) for storing all small engine equipment between seasons. I never had one fail to start between the many I use.

The ethanol is a tremendous problem for small engines and stored fuel. It eats carburetors, rings and bearings alive. It causes pitting, increases moisture and does all kinds of other nasty things. The same with bio diesel.. avoid it whenever you can.

Smart move buying the ethanol free stuff... Adding sta-bil can help, but that is not magic either. All it does is flat on top the surface to prevent oxidization. The best thing you can do is keep fuel containers and tanks full to lower surface area and help precent oxidization.

 

[LBCBJ]

Have an EcoFlow Delta on my Cade 500. Battery holds 1kWH, which I estimate is enough to run the tank as is for 72 hours. It can fully charge in one hour, and even has a solar panel charger if crap really hits the fan.

Knock on wood I never need to use it even once, but for me this is simpy an insurance policy.

I do believe emergency backup is the #1 most underappreciated aspect of reef tanks today.