GFCI Breakers, outlets or both.
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p7willm
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It depends. Both do the same thing, if more current goes out than comes back in they shut down. If you are having a dedicated line for your aquarium put in, then go with the breaker. I would change an outlet myself, your mileage may vary, so it is easier and cheaper for a retrofit. Depending on how you wire it the outlet will protect just itself or itself and all outlets downstream.
The breaker might be better quality but electrical stuff is fairly heavily regulated.
Of course the real answer is ask an electrician.
The breaker might be better quality but electrical stuff is fairly heavily regulated.
Of course the real answer is ask an electrician.
OP
OP
3mm3
Valuable Member
It will be 2 systems with dedicated Circuit breakers.
This is what I was looking at. Run 1 per system?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...I-and-GFCI-Circuit-Breaker-QO120DFC/204844647
p7willm
Active Member
If there are 2 systems then I would have 2 GFCIs. If one trips it will not bother the other system. You can install the outlets so they do not affect the rest of the run. If the total draw is low enough to do it all on one circuit you could do it as one normal circuit and put 2 GFCI outlets.
OP
OP
3mm3
Valuable Member
I'll go ahead and run 2 of those breakers. Thanks!
I like the gfci receptacles better as I can visually see it better if it's tripped or has gone bad. It's also a little cheaper. Just install one on the first receptacle on each circuit. Either one works fine though.
pfoxgrover
Active Member
So did you go the breaker route? How is it working? Which did you purchase?
I am planning 3 dedicated circuits for my new tank and trying to find the option that is less likely to have nuisance trips. The GFCIs in my kitchen and baths trip quite often. My current tank is on one of those construction site (short yellow extension cord thing) type GFCI and has never tripped.
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The breakers can protect the whole circuit, but can be a pain to have to get into the electrical panel to reset if it trips.
The outlets do the same thing and if it trips its right there. Plus you can wire it to protect the rest of the circuit downstream, or just the outlet itself. Just buy a quality outlet, get a commercial or industrial grade GFCI, not the cheapest one Home Depot sells which is probably a residential grade.
Having both breakers and outlets is overkill imho.
They both work the same way. Whatever current flows out on the hot wire must equal the current returning on the neutral wire. If those currents differ by more than 5 milliamps, it trips because it means that current is leaking to ground somewhere.
The outlets do the same thing and if it trips its right there. Plus you can wire it to protect the rest of the circuit downstream, or just the outlet itself. Just buy a quality outlet, get a commercial or industrial grade GFCI, not the cheapest one Home Depot sells which is probably a residential grade.
Having both breakers and outlets is overkill imho.
They both work the same way. Whatever current flows out on the hot wire must equal the current returning on the neutral wire. If those currents differ by more than 5 milliamps, it trips because it means that current is leaking to ground somewhere.
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The kitchen outlets are most likely a residential grade gfci where the construction plug is a better grade outlet. You do get what you pay for when buying electrical outlets.
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