- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 3,185
- Reaction score
- 4,823
Too much liability
GFCI outlet or GFCI adaptor/power strip
- Thread starter BubblesandSqueak
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Too much liability
Just have to have an airtight disclaimer that gets signed during the purchase.
“Not liable for any loss or damage caused by plugging the device into an electrical outlet. Made for uncharged amusement purposes only! Buyer assumes all risks associated with any unauthorized use of this novelty.”
This disclaimer was made for entertainment purposes only. Not for legal purposes, in most cases.
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
OK so reading the GFCI info, it appears these are self-test GFCI's that are now made. Does that mean they will randomly turn off rather than provide a constant electric supply? Like every certain amount of days it will turn off so you couldn't say leave a bug zapper left running all summer without it randomly tripping once in a while? This would defeat the purpose of using it on a fish tank for self-test?
Self-Test GFCIs perform a periodic internal self-test to confirm that protected power is available. Although Leviton SmartlockPro® GFCIs are self-testing, a manual test adds an additional level of protection to users. It is recommended that GFCIs be tested monthly to ensure protected power is present.
Seems the weather resistant one uses nickel plating and stainless steel screws to prolong corrosion. Was thinking the extra cost may have been UV plastics but didn't find that.
So can someone enlighten me on a self-test GFCI? These things shouldn't be complicated and makes me wonder if I should just post the new tank to the market place before even setting it up now if I'm going to have all these electrical issues.
Self-Test GFCIs perform a periodic internal self-test to confirm that protected power is available. Although Leviton SmartlockPro® GFCIs are self-testing, a manual test adds an additional level of protection to users. It is recommended that GFCIs be tested monthly to ensure protected power is present.
Seems the weather resistant one uses nickel plating and stainless steel screws to prolong corrosion. Was thinking the extra cost may have been UV plastics but didn't find that.
So can someone enlighten me on a self-test GFCI? These things shouldn't be complicated and makes me wonder if I should just post the new tank to the market place before even setting it up now if I'm going to have all these electrical issues.
if it was me I would move that receptacle down the wall and blank that spot off if that's the only place for the aquarium.
this can be done by cutting a strip out of the drywall and placing a cut in box in the wall just outside of the stand, technically it would require arc faulting the circuit but so wouldn't modifying the existing receptacle anyway.
having a receptacle behind the stand is asking for problems weather it's gfci or not.
this can be done by cutting a strip out of the drywall and placing a cut in box in the wall just outside of the stand, technically it would require arc faulting the circuit but so wouldn't modifying the existing receptacle anyway.
having a receptacle behind the stand is asking for problems weather it's gfci or not.
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
this line has a GFCI outdoors as required. Don't know which outlet is first though. WOuldn't I have to disconnect each outlet then flip the power on to see where the break is?
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
this isn't feasible for me though.
well then I would do like the Last post said and find the receptacle feeding that one and put a gfci there (easier to acess) and the one behind the tank on the load side of the gfci, it doesn't have to be the first one on the circuit and install an in use cover on it for splash protection.
full disclosure I wouldn't install a gfci on my tank at all but if I did have a receptacle behind my tank I would put an in use cover on the receptacle and silicone it to the wall.
those are good! although it doesn't make much of a difference get a 20a if it's a 20a circuit, the WR have stainless parts, get WR when possible around salt and outdoors
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
I'm reading the self-test thing and still unsure. does this statement basically say it will periodically turn off and must be manually reset due to the self-testing feature? Seems like once a month it's supposed to trip to manually be reset?
The auto monitoring or self-test feature periodically tests the electronics from the sensing toroid to the trip solenoid driver and will pick up a failure of the majority of components in the GFCI. It cannot, however, test the trip solenoid driver, the trip solenoid itself or the contacts to see if they are welded. Testing those components can only be done by actually making the GFCI trip. It is not practical to have GFCIs randomly tripping off during self-test cycles. So the manual test button is still provided and it should still be used periodically as recommended. The presence of the self-test function is not allowed to affect the tripping of the device within the specified trip time requirements if an actual ground fault occurs.
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
they installed a 20a breaker, I believe it's 12/2 and 15a receptacles. for me to select another location is basically re-inventing the whole thing. it's too big and already braced the floor underneath etc...I'm leaning to just selling the whole thing now. it's not worth it for me to relocate or have to drastically re-wire the area.
you won't need to "rewire" anything...
you can identify the circuit.
all the receptacles involved with that circuit.
the Las receptacle will only have one set of wires, the rest will be "in and out" usually the one to the left or right will be feeding the receptacle behind your tank. unless it's split and every receptacle has its own line, but typically it will be the one to the left or right feeding down the line disconnect the one to the right and see if it kills you "tank receptacle " if so put the gfci on the line and load to your "tank recpticle" this just makes for easier acess when it does trip....
they are all constantly "testing" its confusing how they word it probably, but they are always sensing MA . look up common issues that cause a gfci to trip not on forums..
notice the last section about "air" or dust lol
and 1 reason I don't put my systems life line on gfci receptacles, I've also had new gfci's out of the box that were bad so best practice is to have safe electrical practices, one rule of mine is no receptacles behind or under an aquarium but I understand that's not always an option for everyone, and in your case as well.
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
personally I would guess split. But there has to be more on this line than just 4 dining room outlets, a single foyer outlet, and one exterior outlet. I'll look and see if I can follow the wire path in the basement. That should tell me if it's coming from dining room or breaker box.
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
I was planning on bending a clear acrylic sheet 30x30 behind the bulkheads that go from bottom of aquarium and back into stand where sump is. Would prevent any sump splashes and tubing spray except for top aquarium overflow box.they are all constantly "testing" its confusing how they word it probably, but they are always sensing MA . look up common issues that cause a gfci to trip not on forums..
notice the last section about "air" or dust lol
and 1 reason I don't put my systems life line on gfci receptacles, I've also had new gfci's out of the box that were bad so best practice is to have safe electrical practices, one rule of mine is no receptacles behind or under an aquarium but I understand that's not always an option for everyone, and in your case as well.
The aquarium itself is still sitting in the garage in the wood crate. I only built the stand and put the sump in it for now just to get it out of the way.
the in- use covers are easy to put on with the receptacles still installed and help alot to prevent water from leaking into it, and make a drip loop in your wires, anything you can do is better than nothing.
your dinning room could be isolated but no way to tell, best is turning off the circuit and go around the house with a plug checker so you have a mental note of what receptacles are on that circuit so you can leave large loads off them like coffee makers , air fries, blow driers etc. in the future to reduce the load on your aquarium circuit.
good luck with the project
new tanks are fun, I want a new one!! I have pipes through walls and tanks all over I'm not allowed
OP
OP
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
So opening up the outlet it appears that it's the end. Just one black, one white and a round. 12/2 NMB. I had only found 4 dining room outlets, one foyer outlet and one exterior outlet on it. But now I know it's not in the middle. And knowing that it's the end might make it easier to relocate.the in- use covers are easy to put on with the receptacles still installed and help alot to prevent water from leaking into it, and make a drip loop in your wires, anything you can do is better than nothing.
your dinning room could be isolated but no way to tell, best is turning off the circuit and go around the house with a plug checker so you have a mental note of what receptacles are on that circuit so you can leave large loads off them like coffee makers , air fries, blow driers etc. in the future to reduce the load on your aquarium circuit.
good luck with the project
that's very true I would make sure all the receptacles involved are not the same, like I said before they could have spidered out to each receptacle from a box in the attic or basement, but yes it would make it easier to move either way.
Similar threads
- Question
