Gha removal

Uncle99

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So 50 nitrate needs to hold at 5-10ppm and phosphate at 0.05-.1ppm in new tanks with no coral load. Your water changes should put you at least close. I would think your phosphate is on the higher end so check level and use a GFO if it’s high.

You could put some macro algae in a box, but I suspect it won’t do much, needs to be sizable to work well.

2 liters in a 50g, yup, that’s a lot. Maybe cloudy your water.
If so, do a WC.

You’ll need to keep a close eye on Salinity,Alk, MG, Nitrate, and Phosphate, they must stay pinned, or if their are moving consistently in one direction, fix them.

If you can get Mexican or Astrea snails maybe 5 each, or 10 total. Put them on the rocks where the algae is, keeping moving them back to most affected areas.

What’s lighting this tank?
Number of lights and wattage…
 

Jekyl

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I just got bored and scrubbed some bits off haha. Probsbly not the best idea.

Also my plan of action was to stop the lights, and then take each individual rock ou t and scrub it down completely. Then do a 25% water change for 4 days like someone had recommended, then get some Microbacteria 7 or some sort of bacteria and just overdose everything on it. And check parameters after 24 hours of the 4th water change.


Do you recommend a certain bacteria too use For it I can buy off Amazon?
IMG_5759.jpeg IMG_5760.jpeg
Even after seeing the pics I wouldn't recommend any kind of algicide.

My course of action would be dosing phyto, ensuring proper CuC, using a toothbrush at end of vacation during water changes and time.

Reminds me exactly of what my tank did. Shortly after coraline started growing and algae was never an issue again.

My tank is now over 5 years old. I change water maybe 3 times a year, I barely ever test. Algae is almost non existant.
 

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Do you think I can just order one of those fish breeder boxes that hang inside of the tank and just put Chaeto in there? Because I have an aio system and there’s no space to put it.
How much space do you have? And can it be lit from behind instead of from the top?

My experience with cheato in my current tank was extremely successful. 29 gallon tank with a 20 high sump. My chaeto area was probably 10 by 7 inches and lit with a cheap clamp on grow bulb. I started with 30 ppm nitrate and 1 ppm phosphate. The nutrients eventually bottomed out after a few months. I still did WCs, cut back feeding and added appropriate CUC.
 
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Devan Patel

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How much space do you have? And can it be lit from behind instead of from the top?

My experience with cheato in my current tank was extremely successful. 29 gallon tank with a 20 high sump. My chaeto area was probably 10 by 7 inches and lit with a cheap clamp on grow bulb. I started with 30 ppm nitrate and 1 ppm phosphate. The nutrients eventually bottomed out after a few months. I still did WCs, cut back feeding and added appropriate CUC.
Do u have a pic?
 
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Devan Patel

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So 50 nitrate needs to hold at 5-10ppm and phosphate at 0.05-.1ppm in new tanks with no coral load. Your water changes should put you at least close. I would think your phosphate is on the higher end so check level and use a GFO if it’s high.

You could put some macro algae in a box, but I suspect it won’t do much, needs to be sizable to work well.

2 liters in a 50g, yup, that’s a lot. Maybe cloudy your water.
If so, do a WC.

You’ll need to keep a close eye on Salinity,Alk, MG, Nitrate, and Phosphate, they must stay pinned, or if their are moving consistently in one direction, fix them.

If you can get Mexican or Astrea snails maybe 5 each, or 10 total. Put them on the rocks where the algae is, keeping moving them back to most affected areas.

What’s lighting this tank?
Number of lights and wattage…
I’m running two ai hydra 32 hd. I have no idea about the wattage or how to find out on the app.

I’m still waiting on the lfs to get a clean up crew

Should I just add a decent amount of the 2L per day to wear it isn’t cloudy, and I’ll dose at night.

also my water is finally ready should I do a water change now at night or should I do it when the lights are on?
 

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I just didn’t want to use it again I used it awhile ago. And I thought it would just melt the corals and hurt the bio load.

I tried to get away from chemical and go with biological haha. But doesn’t seem to be working yet
Antifungals are by definition not going to hurt the microbiome or the coral.
 
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Devan Patel

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Antifungals are by definition not going to hurt the microbiome or the coral.
my zoas did melt somehow haha, they were in perfect condition despite all the problems going on they were very happy
 
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Devan Patel

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Antifungals are by definition not going to hurt the microbiome or the coral.
And if I can control the gha. I will learn how to in the future and won’t need to reply on chemical treatments because they won’t solve the problem they will just give a temporary solution, and after reefflux I get cyano immediately then I do a chemiclean then turns back into gha
 

Uncle99

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I’m running two ai hydra 32 hd. I have no idea about the wattage or how to find out on the app.

I’m still waiting on the lfs to get a clean up crew

Should I just add a decent amount of the 2L per day to wear it isn’t cloudy, and I’ll dose at night.

also my water is finally ready should I do a water change now at night or should I do it when the lights are on?
Do all your water change anytime.
I might use 500ml after first water change.
Then 100ml every day till gone.

So after you finish all your water changes wait 24 hours and test everything, mark down these results. This is your starting point. Check salinity first, make sure it’s 1.025-1,026 before testing anything else. Salinity must be right first to get good test results.

MG is second. If this one’s out, fix it first or tests for CA and Alk will not be accurate.

Last will be Nitrate and Phosphate.
I use the Hanna UL phosphorus checker in PPB, it’s the only test IMM
That’s fine enough to check phosphate levels.

Lights are fine,

From the starting point, we going to manage our water chemistry to achieve the least flux during each 24 hours

Also, if you have phytoplankton, maybe 10ml everday for a week, then once a week for a month.

Perfect chemistry in terms of water will lead to the development of those good guy processors which populate faster in great stable environments. Bad stuff doesn’t like stable and gets outcompeted in the end. It will stay that way unless your chemistry becomes unstable again

It is these processors which keep tanks clean and feed our corals.

My sand remains white and I have not touched it in over a year.

Feed normally, water changes normally do everything you would normally do so we can see through testing, where things are going,

Maybe some of this will help you
 
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Devan Patel

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Do all your water change anytime.
I might use 500ml after first water change.
Then 100ml every day till gone.

So after you finish all your water changes wait 24 hours and test everything, mark down these results. This is your starting point. Check salinity first, make sure it’s 1.025-1,026 before testing anything else. Salinity must be right first to get good test results.

MG is second. If this one’s out, fix it first or tests for CA and Alk will not be accurate.

Last will be Nitrate and Phosphate.
I use the Hanna UL phosphorus checker in PPB, it’s the only test IMM
That’s fine enough to check phosphate levels.

Lights are fine,

From the starting point, we going to manage our water chemistry to achieve the least flux during each 24 hours

Also, if you have phytoplankton, maybe 10ml everday for a week, then once a week for a month.

Perfect chemistry in terms of water will lead to the development of those good guy processors which populate faster in great stable environments. Bad stuff doesn’t like stable and gets outcompeted in the end. It will stay that way unless your chemistry becomes unstable again

It is these processors which keep tanks clean and feed our corals.

My sand remains white and I have not touched it in over a year.

Feed normally, water changes normally do everything you would normally do so we can see through testing, where things are going,

Maybe some of this will help you
Wow, I rest appreciate the help and the information. Starting the first out of 4 water changes now. Just take each rock and scrub it till there’s nothing? I’m doing 25% so that’s 12.5 gallons per day
 
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Devan Patel

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Do all your water change anytime.
I might use 500ml after first water change.
Then 100ml every day till gone.

So after you finish all your water changes wait 24 hours and test everything, mark down these results. This is your starting point. Check salinity first, make sure it’s 1.025-1,026 before testing anything else. Salinity must be right first to get good test results.

MG is second. If this one’s out, fix it first or tests for CA and Alk will not be accurate.

Last will be Nitrate and Phosphate.
I use the Hanna UL phosphorus checker in PPB, it’s the only test IMM
That’s fine enough to check phosphate levels.

Lights are fine,

From the starting point, we going to manage our water chemistry to achieve the least flux during each 24 hours

Also, if you have phytoplankton, maybe 10ml everday for a week, then once a week for a month.

Perfect chemistry in terms of water will lead to the development of those good guy processors which populate faster in great stable environments. Bad stuff doesn’t like stable and gets outcompeted in the end. It will stay that way unless your chemistry becomes unstable again

It is these processors which keep tanks clean and feed our corals.

My sand remains white and I have not touched it in over a year.

Feed normally, water changes normally do everything you would normally do so we can see through testing, where things are going,

Maybe some of this will help you
Also should I be taking out all the gha out at once? I would be more than happy too? Or during the 4 water changes divide all the rocks up?
 

Jekyl

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Also should I be taking out all the gha out at once? I would be more than happy too? Or during the 4 water changes divide all the rocks up?
When doing a water change use a toothbrush at the end of the vacuum to scrub off the excess.
 

Uncle99

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It’s mostly about numbers.
You can quickly remove at lot.
Then snails will polish them up.
lower phosphate used by GHA, through water change.
lower light used by GHA to do photosynthesis.

We will put water chemistry in check, you should be close to what your mix shows on the packaging. I’d match those levels.

I see not much Stoney corals so water changes will be enough to maintain chemistry.

Watch nutrient levels at least weekly, use water changes if necessary to maintain those levels.

Stability in your chemistry is the key to success, but don’t come as fast as maybe we would like it.

At any time, pick out green if you see any.
 
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Devan Patel

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I did not see this, I just finished. But tomorrow I will do all the rocks then. Here is the after result, a lot of the corraline is gone off the rocks but I got a good amount off the 3 rocks I did today.
 

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Uncle99

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I did not see this, I just finished. But tomorrow I will do all the rocks then. Here is the after result, a lot of the corraline is gone off the rocks but I got a good amount off the 3 rocks I did today.
Front of that rock looks good.
If you can get a few snails, they can be a big help.

No worries, all at once, some at a time, doesn’t matter much.
 
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Devan Patel

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Front of that rock looks good.
If you can get a few snails, they can be a big help.

No worries, all at once, some at a time, doesn’t matter much.
Going to check with the lfs on wnesday when they get a shipment
 
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Devan Patel

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Front of that rock looks good.
If you can get a few snails, they can be a big help.

No worries, all at once, some at a time, doesn’t matter much.
Water change number 2, got as much as I could off without my hands dying. Brushing gha is not for the weak haha. I will do 2 more water changes and by then I should get a clean up crew by wensday if the store gets some. Even if I’ll be able to get my hands on a few then that’s still helpful. Then I will start my testing and stability. 2L of Microbacteria7 comes in today and after the 2nd water change I will start the dosing

also do i turn off the red light and green on the tank?

IMG_5806.jpeg IMG_5807.jpeg
 
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Devan Patel

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Front of that rock looks good.
If you can get a few snails, they can be a big help.

No worries, all at once, some at a time, doesn’t matter much.
Post water change
 

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