GHL controller - Before buying...

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Fisherman Joe

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Stupid question, why do you need to open the flush and the RO water? Is it just so the waste doesn’t build up?

Didn’t think this through. My RO unit is going in the utility sink next to the dining room where the fish tank is. I need to run some pipe through the wall. Seems I need to run the wires too lol.
 

ispookie666

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This is all just pulling up from.memory.
When I set it up -the idea was to flush the membrane automatically for 10min and then I think every 2 hours for 5 min. The initial one was to flush out the equalised TDS after prolonged non use of membrane (1-2weeks), subsequent ones are for preventing any buildup.

I was very new to profilux when I set this up, I might need to think this through - if any changes are needed or not.
 
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Fisherman Joe

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Yeah. Needs some research here.

Not sure how often to flush the membrane.
 

smartwater101

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Hey bud. I'm in Suffolk. The only controller I have used in GHL -Run a P3ex and P2.

Mine has pretty much automated everything
Lights - Mix of Mitras and LB2
Pumps - Tunzes all controlled using 0-10V
Returns -controlled through switchable socket
Carx - pH controlled, just trying to sort out a 0-10V controllable peri pump
Alk -KH Director
Skimmate locker - auto emptied using a peri pump when full
Plenty more using sump level
Temp control
Dosing
Adding a bit of NSW everyday - to cover for volume lost to KHDirector and skimmer

My old Profilux 2 runs my automated RODI production.

Can the kh director's "waste" water be put back into the tank like the Alkatronic?
 

smartwater101

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I'd rather not. I just consider that as part of water change and have stated to dose the volume back into the tank.

Yes but CAN you? Do they claim its safe?

I do this with my Alkatronic and have zero issue with it. Expanding pond foam, super glue, dental paste, krylon paints... there is a large list of things we put in our tanks that are completely inert. Testing fluid doesnt bother me at all.
 

Silver14SS

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Can the kh director's "waste" water be put back into the tank like the Alkatronic?

The instructions say no, but it’s using an acid like the Alkatronic. My guess is it would be fine and GHL is just being cautious with their recommendation to put it in a waste container.

I’ve been returning my Alkatronic waste to the sump and I haven’t noticed any adverse affects with the eye test or ICP.
 

ispookie666

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Ofcourse you can. It's just diluted acid..
I dont see the point of adding it back into the tank. Not sure why we are discussing Alkatronic on here.[emoji848]
Anyway back to OP
 

smartwater101

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The instructions say no, but it’s using an acid like the Alkatronic. My guess is it would be fine and GHL is just being cautious with their recommendation to put it in a waste container.

Dang. Ill have to look into what specifically its made of vs alkatronic acid. But if they recomend not to, I'd probably just avoid it.
 

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Ofcourse you can. It's just diluted acid..

Well apparently they recomend not to...

I dont see the point of adding it back into the tank.

Many many tests throughout the day. It gets annoying trying to offset the water usage. I was under the impression khd used quite a bit for each test so ill have to double check that

Not sure why we are discussing Alkatronic on here.[emoji848]
Anyway back to OP

The OP is about GHL. We're discussing the KHd and similarities/differences relative to a similar product.

Its not a riddle.
 

Silver14SS

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Ofcourse you can. It's just diluted acid..
I dont see the point of adding it back into the tank. Not sure why we are discussing Alkatronic on here.[emoji848]
Anyway back to OP

I return it to my sump to avoid salinity swings in a 50ish gallon system. I can't find it now, but I believe the KH Director generates 70-100 mL of waste per test. That adds up if you're testing Alk frequently. I'd have over a liter of waste a day if that # is correct.

Alkatronic was mentioned because it's a product that operates on the same basic principles and is germane to the conversation. Maybe one of our more scientific members can do a comparison of the acid strength used by the different products to help users determine if they are comfortable returning KH Director waste to the tank.
 

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Here you go guys.
I used 2 solenoids (Normally closed) -one for RO feed water and the other for bypass/flush valve(I split it so that the bypass valve is still prrsent).

Its been a while since I have had to look at how I set this up and dont think Inhave changed anything.

I run an old Profilux 2 ex and STDL-4 on my RoDI station. The floats were DIY project, I'm not keen on sharing them - as I cannot guarantee the safety if the contraption.

In short I have two level switches in my RODi container. When the level drops and triggers the low level float - the solenoids are triggered. The bypass valve follows the timer and logic. And is turned on for 10min.

If you find any errors or omissions do let me know. It's been going on and I occasionally forget to change the DI resin and end up with TDS of 11 [emoji85]
4cfc7b909aaa1789ca8033c1410b346d.jpg
Thanks for sharing!
 

road_runner

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Here you go guys.
I used 2 solenoids (Normally closed) -one for RO feed water and the other for bypass/flush valve(I split it so that the bypass valve is still prrsent).

Its been a while since I have had to look at how I set this up and dont think Inhave changed anything.

I run an old Profilux 2 ex and STDL-4 on my RoDI station. The floats were DIY project, I'm not keen on sharing them - as I cannot guarantee the safety if the contraption.

In short I have two level switches in my RODi container. When the level drops and triggers the low level float - the solenoids are triggered. The bypass valve follows the timer and logic. And is turned on for 10min.

If you find any errors or omissions do let me know. It's been going on and I occasionally forget to change the DI resin and end up with TDS of 11 [emoji85]
4cfc7b909aaa1789ca8033c1410b346d.jpg
So interesting, my ATO reservoir is higher than my sump so it siphon all the time.
So, I attempted to do the same thing and fix the siphon using solenoid using my late apex and fmm and atk. My ATO reservoir is higher than my sump to it siphon all the time.
In both cases the modules would lock down suddenly and randomly and either cause my solenoid to open or close indefinitely and almost caused a disaster.
When we talk about quality and reliability..this is a stark example....

Now am using the same on my GHL for more than a month, never had a problem and actually stopped checking.

I remember I used to stress and check fusions every 3 hours fearing the lock down have happened. To add insult to injury, the apex salinity prob was so unreliable I couldn't tell on time if this issue happened depending on the salinity readings...what a stress that was.


Thanks for sharing.
 
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Fisherman Joe

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This is all super interesting. I dont mind that the subject mentioned Alkatronic, its good to know about all options, but i am getting GHL.

Given that i want to design am Ultra Low Maintenance (ULM) tank, having the testing reagents going back in to the water would save me some gradual salt loss though dilution with the fresh water replacing the tested salt water. That being said, I also want to put a overflow on to the skimmer collection cup, like the Avast Skimmate locker. That way i dont have to empty the skimmate too often. Given that my tank is in the dining room, i could pipe a waste pipe to the drain, but it would need level switches to pump to fluid away. I cant get a siphon here, its got to go in some trunking along the wall and around the door frame.

Question: How do you stetup an automatic RODI production with GHL? This is something i havent thought about too much.

I want to be abel to leave my tank for weeks as I travel a lot for work...
 

ispookie666

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Have a look at how I set it up. You would need at least 2 controllable sockets.

In my setup the RODI is run by an old P2 ex and STDL-4. I think mine produces 100L every 2 weeks or so. The process is part of the attachment.

From my RODI reservoir, RODI is pumped into my ATO Chamber (using an old aqua medic ATO - it uses float switches and they are easier to add wire for length), I use a 100gpd booster pump for this. They are self priming. I also use a Time switch/wall plugin timer - so that even if the ATO(aquamedic fails), the power to the booster would be on for only a defined time period.

The end of my ATO refill tubing has an RO float valve.

All this add a lot of complexity but redundancy at the same time.

All this cam be achieved with Profilux, but you would end up needing an Expansion box and a few level expansion cards.
 
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Which expansion box and cards would I need?

Trying to image all this before buying is super complex for a noobie lol.
 

ispookie666

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Which expansion box and cards would I need?

Trying to image all this before buying is super complex for a noobie lol.
Probably best to make a list of things you definitely need and things which would be added bonus.

I think an ADIN card would sort out a lot of your needs.
Probably 2 to 3 plug bars, 1-10v ports - would depend on what pumps etc you would be using. I think the big standard P4 comes with sufficient.
 

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