Gracilaria Care Tips?

lobstermeet

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I started a 20g AIO tank 4 months ago that is doing really well, couldn't really ask for more. I didn't plan on it but it's turning into a macro/softie tank (as my last tank did 6 years ago, I guess it's just what I'm drawn to). I noticed though that bunches of my red gracilaria will grow at the tips then a few inches back a segment will go clear and break off usually with live bits at the end. Is this normal/healthy or is it a the result of some kind of deficiency (either a bailout scenario or a dieback from lack of nutrients). Any Macro nerds out there have any pointers on what to test for and what to dose? I have a bottle of cheatogrow but don't want to start adding anything I'm not actively testing for. I just try to feed a little heavy handed to make sure there are at least some extra nutrients.

Temp: 79F
Salinity: 1.025sg/34.5ppt
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 5ppm
Phosphate: Don't have a test yet
PH: 8.2
Alk: 7dkh
Calcium: 400ppm

Livestock:
2 Small 1" clowns
6 Hermits (3 red leg, 3 blue)
2 Sexy shrimp
A bunch of amphipods
A few clumps of Red Gracilaria
1 Toadstool leather
1 Xenia rock
1 Acan frag
1 Mini carpet anemone
 

X-37B

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Just feed your fish. A phosphate checker is a must, imo. I used to run po4 reducing media in my 120 all the time to keep po4 below 0.1.
I now run a fuge in 2 systems and po4 hovers around .05. I feed all my tanks heavy.
My 30g remote fuge and my sump fuge in my 45 frag system. I like ogo and DB. I am phasing out cheato as its messy. Its already out of my 45's sump.
Light and fish poop is all they need.
20220204_161651.jpg
20220418_153038.jpg
 
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vetteguy53081

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A beautiful addition to any tank. They require bright lighting which may not be favorable for some coral.
They grow quickly and can be trimmed and repropagated. They are excellent for nitrate reduction and will outcompete nuisance algae such as bryopsis
They thrive best in a refugium but capable also in the tank , but not with some algae eaters such as rabbitfish and tangs
 

AlgaeBarn

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@lobstermeet in addition to what others have said, in regards to your red gracilaria you may want to dose Magnesium, Trace Elements, and Iron (optional)- Raven :)
 
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lobstermeet

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@lobstermeet in addition to what others have said, in regards to your red gracilaria you may want to dose Magnesium, Trace Elements, and Iron (optional)- Raven :)
Do you know if the occasional dying tips are a sign of nutrient deficiency? Or is it just a natural part of the lifecycle?
 

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lobstermeet

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Just feed your fish. A phosphate checker is a must, imo. I used to run po4 reducing media in my 120 all the time to keep po4 below 0.1.
I now run a fuge in 2 systems and po4 hovers around .05. I feed all my tanks heavy.
My 30g remote fuge and my sump fuge in my 45 frag system. I like ogo and DB. I am phasing out cheato as its messy. Its already out of my 45's sump.
Light and fish poop is all they need.
20220204_161651.jpg
20220418_153038.jpg
Do you ever face random dieback? or is it just always growing
 

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Do you ever face random dieback? or is it just always growing
Its always growing as I have to remove some about every month.
I do get the white tips dieng but only in my 45 frags sump. They die if exposed to air. Never happens in my 30g remote as its always under water.
 
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lobstermeet

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Its always growing as I have to remove some about every month.
I do get the white tips dieng but only in my 45 frags sump. They die if exposed to air. Never happens in my 30g remote as its always under water.
Ahh that makes sense, yeah it tends to grow and then die back after I take it out of the tank to split it. Maybe exposure to the air what causes it.
 

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Do you know if the occasional dying tips are a sign of nutrient deficiency? Or is it just a natural part of the lifecycle?
I'm assuming it's just a little nutrient, how long are you leaving it out of the water? We ship our macroalgae moist and not submerged in water without any issues (2-3 day shipping)
 

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