green hair algae
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Green hair algae: DERBESIA
This is one of the most problematic Algae that is most commonly seen through out the hobby and is also one of the hardest to control once it is established and can be a daunting task to get under control and remove and will quickly take over your system if given the right conditions..
ID: This Algae is very easy to identify it forms green tuffs on the rock work and glass normally in areas of low flow it should be a solid green/brown color with strands of ( hair ) flowing away from the base.
CONTROL: One of the easiest ways to control the spread and outbreak of this algae is to have aggressive skimming and control the amount of food you add to the system. This in conjunction with a regular water change and light use of carbon ( a good carbon ) will help you control the outbreak of this and many more types of algae. Also a Alkalinty of 8DKH or higher will help stem the development of this Algae.
WHAT FEEDS THE GROWTH OF (GHA)?
Green hair algae feeds off of phosphates as it primary source of food followed by nitrate's. So if you have a reliable pure fish food that is soaked and rinsed is one way to control the addition of phosphates to the system. Also the reason it is advised to not skimp on quality when it comes to activated carbon is that a lot of problems with algae outbreaks is caused by carbon re-introducing phosphates into the system after the carbon is used to its full potential. Also along with re-introducing phosphates a lot of activated carbons leach phosphates from the time they are added to the system. So Good carbon is a must to help fight Algae outbreaks.
REMOVAL:
A toothbrush is your best friend against this Algae and you should scrub the rocks with it after removing as much as possible by hand.
NATURAL PREDATORS:
This Green hair algae has very little natural predators
ALGAE AGAINST ALGAE:
A refugium is a natural way of removing Phosphates and Nitrates from your system. If done correctly a refugium can eliminate a lot of algae problems..Simple to set up and maintain all you need is a 6,500k light source And some chaetomorpha on a reverse or 24hr light cycle. This Algae will out compete other algae for nutrients and will not leach nutrients back into the system and will not go sexual..
ID: This Algae is very easy to identify it forms green tuffs on the rock work and glass normally in areas of low flow it should be a solid green/brown color with strands of ( hair ) flowing away from the base.
CONTROL: One of the easiest ways to control the spread and outbreak of this algae is to have aggressive skimming and control the amount of food you add to the system. This in conjunction with a regular water change and light use of carbon ( a good carbon ) will help you control the outbreak of this and many more types of algae. Also a Alkalinty of 8DKH or higher will help stem the development of this Algae.
WHAT FEEDS THE GROWTH OF (GHA)?
Green hair algae feeds off of phosphates as it primary source of food followed by nitrate's. So if you have a reliable pure fish food that is soaked and rinsed is one way to control the addition of phosphates to the system. Also the reason it is advised to not skimp on quality when it comes to activated carbon is that a lot of problems with algae outbreaks is caused by carbon re-introducing phosphates into the system after the carbon is used to its full potential. Also along with re-introducing phosphates a lot of activated carbons leach phosphates from the time they are added to the system. So Good carbon is a must to help fight Algae outbreaks.
REMOVAL:
A toothbrush is your best friend against this Algae and you should scrub the rocks with it after removing as much as possible by hand.
NATURAL PREDATORS:
This Green hair algae has very little natural predators
ALGAE AGAINST ALGAE:
A refugium is a natural way of removing Phosphates and Nitrates from your system. If done correctly a refugium can eliminate a lot of algae problems..Simple to set up and maintain all you need is a 6,500k light source And some chaetomorpha on a reverse or 24hr light cycle. This Algae will out compete other algae for nutrients and will not leach nutrients back into the system and will not go sexual..
surfnsalt
Well-Known Member
If you have a big enough tank, yellow tangs like lots of different algae. Fox face too. Just research before you get anything to make sure its compatible for your tank and other fish
SantaMonicaHelp
Valuable Member
Lawnmower blenny does a good job.
~SF
~SF
den75
Active Member
Instead of trying to put a band aid on the problem with a fish who may or may not help, you should look at attacking the root cause of the issue. Things like high nitrates and phosphates. Over feeding and lighting schedule to name a few.
twilliard
Tank pests..
twilliard
Tank pests..
I wouldn't. They will learn to eat what you feed then never touch algae again
palmer
Active Member
sometimes the blenny don't touch them- you need to find out why you got green algae- Could be old lights or not enough export of nutrients-
i would solve problem and manually remove as much as you can
i would solve problem and manually remove as much as you can
Amit Kumar
Active Member
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A yellow tang eats algae
Amit Kumar
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2015
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But that tank looks small
Marta
Active Member
You could be right. I never thought of that. Finding the root of the problem is the best idea...I wouldn't. They will learn to eat what you feed then never touch algae again
Try out some gfo or phosgard to remove phosphates to help fix the root of the problem.
As far as livestock, any fish mentioned already will get a jump start on it. Trochus snails and red legged hermits will also put a pretty good dent in it.
As far as livestock, any fish mentioned already will get a jump start on it. Trochus snails and red legged hermits will also put a pretty good dent in it.
Pfisherman
Active Member
without a little background, this is a difficult question for anyone to answer. firstly, how old is your tank? what are your nutrient levels, and what size tank do you have with what kind of filtration? there is really no one size fits all answer to any reef problem. you gotta start with the basics though, if it can eat it will grow.
in my experiences with gha i have found it best to remove all the rocks thar are infected and manually scrub it and rinse it. reduce the nutrient levels in thd tank and dont count on an animal to clean it up.
in my experiences with gha i have found it best to remove all the rocks thar are infected and manually scrub it and rinse it. reduce the nutrient levels in thd tank and dont count on an animal to clean it up.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
Like others have said take care of the root cause. Many fish will graze on algae throughout the day but they won't control a nutrient abundant tank. First off, what is your nitrates and phosphates? (If you are not using a descent test like the Hanna ULR checker for Phosphate you cannot easily measure)
The best way I found was to vodka dose for no3 and GFO for p04 . Randy has an article online for vodka dosing but you need to know what's going on with your number and don't change things to quickly or it could have a adverse affect on your tank
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
I'd not recommend this until the facts are present. If protein skimmer is not overpowered then this could cause more problems than it fixed. Gha is better than cyano and dinos!
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