Green Hammer Loosing Color

huttoreefer

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Hello guys,

I bought this hammer coral from a LFS. It was pretty green when I saw it at the store, but now most the hammer heads start fading color in my tank, I'm not sure what's going on with it, yesterday I noticed thing coming out from it, it looks like a slime coat thing.
  • Feeing Red Sea AB+ 15ml/day.
  • Radion g6 xr15 deep blue.
  • Currently running at 25% intensity with LPS/Soft CoralLab profile ( 9 hours duration ). 8" from water surface level to the light, tank is 20" deep.
  • Salinity: 1.027
  • Phosphorus: 9 ppb ==> phosphate : 0.03
  • Calcium: 438 ppb
  • Alkalinity: 157 ppb
  • Temp : 78F
20230318_205737.jpg




 
Looks like the coral is trying to adjust to your parameters, or just bleaching?

These lps like more nutrients and drift feedings and a "dirty" tank with more nutrients, in general.

Lots of corals will go through these times of adjustment and once they hit the groove they often color up and start to grow. How old is the tank? Do you feed the corals? The sand looks pristine, suggesting that the tank was recently set up or is routinely scoured with cleaning.

But I am rambling. Lets see what other folks have to say.
 
Hello guys,

I bought this hammer coral from a LFS. It was pretty green when I saw it at the store, but now most the hammer heads start fading color in my tank, I'm not sure what's going on with it, yesterday I noticed thing coming out from it, it looks like a slime coat thing.
  • Feeing Red Sea AB+ 15ml/day.
  • Radion g6 xr15 deep blue.
  • Currently running at 25% intensity with LPS/Soft CoralLab profile ( 9 hours duration ). 8" from water surface level to the light, tank is 20" deep.
  • Salinity: 1.027
  • Phosphorus: 9 ppb ==> phosphate : 0.03
  • Calcium: 438 ppb
  • Alkalinity: 157 ppb
  • Temp : 78F
20230318_205737.jpg




Light is likely the main issue. With these corals, you want to avoid the extremes- Extreme flow and extreme light. Too much flow and you risk tearing the flesh off the skeleton and too much light and they will expel their color and energy source known as zooxanthellae. They are not picky where they are placed within tank but best is lower third whereas torch higher where it is.
Hammers can survive with low par and subtle to moderate lighting is adequate.
AB is not a good source of energy. I feed mine mysis shrimp and also assure calcium does not fall below 400 as their skeleton requires calcium for growth.

Here is my location:
660g 3.30a.jpg
 

IF YOU HAD TO OPERATE EVERYTHING ELSE MANUALLY, WHICH AUTOMATED SYSTEM WOULD YOU KEEP?

  • Auto top-off

    Votes: 62 57.9%
  • Automated dosing

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  • Mechanical filtration / roller filter

    Votes: 4 3.7%
  • Automated water testing

    Votes: 3 2.8%
  • Automatic feeding

    Votes: 1 0.9%
  • Lighting schedule

    Votes: 21 19.6%
  • Controller and remote monitoring

    Votes: 4 3.7%
  • Leak detection and emergency shutoff

    Votes: 2 1.9%
  • Automatic water changes

    Votes: 3 2.8%
  • None. I prefer to operate everything manually

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Something else (explain in the comments)

    Votes: 1 0.9%
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