Hammer problem ? Mayve

Cstar_BC

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Is this hammer ok?

had it for a few months and this is the colour it has maintained even under acclimation schedule

it looks way happier than when I initially got it and has grown , has anyone heard of a light pink hammer ?
 
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Cstar_BC

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footgal

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Your middle pic is definitely bleached out. Get some reefroids on that thing. Bleached corals cannot perform photosynthesis. I have a light pink branching hammer :)
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DSEKULA

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I have a light pink hammer with white/blue tips one with pink tips and one with orange tips. Yes I have heard of them but your pictures didn't post so I can't see. If it's looking better and growing tho it sounds like it's moving in the right direction.
 

DSEKULA

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Ah, now they posted guess I jumped the gun. The middle looks bleached, also looks like a
Euphyllia Cristata (not hammer) ime the color on these isn't as vibrant as the others you have their more pastel it still looks bleached but not as poor as if it were a hammer if that makes sense lol. Mine seem to do best in slightly higher light than frogspawn or hammers, more like what my torches like. Just keep it happy and toss it some food here and there and it should be fine in no time.
 
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What do you do with a bleached coral ?
Even the one next to it which I got as a frag with bleaching - has done extremely better .

I have a cristata torch on the same rock (lower right) which is happy - the polyp ends don’t look torch like , you also can’t see in the pic but the tentacles are a pastel pink .


I’m just not sure what else to try with this poor coral as I have had it low , Mid, high etc for weeks long trials and it doesn’t change .

is there a recommended food people have had success with ?

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footgal

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What do you do with a bleached coral ?
Even the one next to it which I got as a frag with bleaching - has done extremely better .

I have a cristata torch on the same rock (lower right) which is happy - the polyp ends don’t look torch like , you also can’t see in the pic but the tentacles are a pastel pink .


I’m just not sure what else to try with this poor coral as I have had it low , Mid, high etc for weeks long trials and it doesn’t change .

is there a recommended food people have had success with ?

F1C5C48F-B3FF-4C3A-89A3-D67D2994DE06.jpeg
So basically, bleached corals have lost their zooxanthellae, which are the little bits that give the coral it’s color which is why bleached corals are white/pale/translucent. The reason corals have zooxanthillae is because it allows them to perform photosynthesis to make food for themselves from light. Since bleached corals don’t have zooxanthellae anymore, they can’t do photosynthesis anymore, so they can’t make food for themselves anymore. This means that a bleached coral will starve to death unless it is fed by you. If fed correctly and for long enough, the zooxanthellae will make a come back and the coral will regain its original color. Please make sure that before beginning a feeding regime, the lighting is not too intense (I usually move mine to the floor) because that is the most common reason corals bleach in the first place


Reefroids seem to boost my bleached hammers (I buy them that way sometimes cause I get a better price) also if you feed frozen food, throwing a little their way also helps.

The best thing you can do is feed the tank heavy once or twice a day and do reefroids 2-3x a week. Please bump up your cuc before feeding heavy or your algae problem will be enormous. I feed heavy every day and I have 15 hermits, a fire shrimp, 10 snails, and well over a few dozen stomatella snails that came in as hitchhikers and have been very successful at reproduction. Keep in mind that I am only running a 20 gallon tank so this is a very high number of cuc members. Feed the tank about double what your fish can actually eat so the corals get some nutrition in the water.

Reefroids should be target fed, preferably with a syringe, very gently so it doesn’t scare the coral. If the tentacles retract quickly, you scared it (bumped it, squirted reefroids too fast, etc) and it will not eat cause it’s in defense mode. Like if you were trapped in a room with a tiger, I guarantee you wouldn’t feed like eating a sandwich even if it was given to you.

Anyway, best of luck to you and your corals, I hope they pull through. I hope that this little write up was informative enough to you, but I will happily answer any additional questions you may have. Have a good day!
 

kartrsu

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So basically, bleached corals have lost their zooxanthellae, which are the little bits that give the coral it’s color which is why bleached corals are white/pale/translucent. The reason corals have zooxanthillae is because it allows them to perform photosynthesis to make food for themselves from light. Since bleached corals don’t have zooxanthellae anymore, they can’t do photosynthesis anymore, so they can’t make food for themselves anymore. This means that a bleached coral will starve to death unless it is fed by you. If fed correctly and for long enough, the zooxanthellae will make a come back and the coral will regain its original color. Please make sure that before beginning a feeding regime, the lighting is not too intense (I usually move mine to the floor) because that is the most common reason corals bleach in the first place


Reefroids seem to boost my bleached hammers (I buy them that way sometimes cause I get a better price) also if you feed frozen food, throwing a little their way also helps.

The best thing you can do is feed the tank heavy once or twice a day and do reefroids 2-3x a week. Please bump up your cuc before feeding heavy or your algae problem will be enormous. I feed heavy every day and I have 15 hermits, a fire shrimp, 10 snails, and well over a few dozen stomatella snails that came in as hitchhikers and have been very successful at reproduction. Keep in mind that I am only running a 20 gallon tank so this is a very high number of cuc members. Feed the tank about double what your fish can actually eat so the corals get some nutrition in the water.

Reefroids should be target fed, preferably with a syringe, very gently so it doesn’t scare the coral. If the tentacles retract quickly, you scared it (bumped it, squirted reefroids too fast, etc) and it will not eat cause it’s in defense mode. Like if you were trapped in a room with a tiger, I guarantee you wouldn’t feed like eating a sandwich even if it was given to you.

Anyway, best of luck to you and your corals, I hope they pull through. I hope that this little write up was informative enough to you, but I will happily answer any additional questions you may have. Have a good day!

Not gonna lie, but that was a very satisfying answer! Well written. ;Happy Exactly the steps I took to nurse my bleached Aussie torch back to health. Now it’s the strongest euphyllia I got.
 

footgal

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Not gonna lie, but that was a very satisfying answer! Well written. ;Happy Exactly the steps I took to nurse my bleached Aussie torch back to health. Now it’s the strongest euphyllia I got.
Thank you!! I’ve nursed back about 7 different euphyllia pieces with this (two torch, five hammers). Currently working on an orange hammer and a froggie, tried and true method!! I’ve never lost a bleaching euphyllia after figuring out and following this method. It takes dedication for about a month but the rewards are definitely worth it!! Here’s some pics of the bleached graduates.
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Currently working on this guy, he’s supposed to be a really nice indo orange hammer. He’s getting a lot better!
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kartrsu

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Thank you!! I’ve nursed back about 7 different euphyllia pieces with this (two torch, five hammers). Currently working on an orange hammer and a froggie, tried and true method!! I’ve never lost a bleaching euphyllia after figuring out and following this method. It takes dedication for about a month but the rewards are definitely worth it!! Here’s some pics of the bleached graduates.
3A511A56-1E51-4970-8299-87F068EA5C91.jpeg
6EBA11FC-3AF8-4B84-A6FA-ADEFC2F9EE6A.jpeg
386C4E39-9A85-4A8F-BF3D-A6A837D8E02B.jpeg
1E1B5B99-0B2F-40CC-8C03-097760A91C1B.jpeg
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CFB74740-6E88-4880-84C3-1323959B54DB.jpeg
330D4AD2-C391-412E-A765-0FCAAF2C6B5A.jpeg
8848F54B-5E78-41EF-916D-5024DA027DE2.jpeg
1F5F5CD0-7822-4FDE-AEAC-6ADE0E19C77E.jpeg
F7039FBF-F623-456A-ACAE-9E3586553F1B.jpeg
59C7397A-9256-4424-BE8A-674EB9BE6524.jpeg


Currently working on this guy, he’s supposed to be a really nice indo orange hammer. He’s getting a lot better!
40A0802B-E947-4C1A-9050-555E49A61809.jpeg

Fantastic collection! Guess you're a euphyllia lover like me. Any experience with euphyllia recovery once there was more aggressive tissue reception almost up to the ridges?
 

footgal

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Fantastic collection! Guess you're a euphyllia lover like me. Any experience with euphyllia recovery once there was more aggressive tissue reception almost up to the ridges?
It’s usually higher flow, are you talking about bjd or something like that that causes massive tissue reduction?
 

kartrsu

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It’s usually higher flow, are you talking about bjd or something like that that causes massive tissue reduction?
Sorry I meant tissue recession. Not bjd, but gradually recession. Got some frags that have some septa showing, but want better coverage for health purposes.
 

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Sorry I meant tissue recession. Not bjd, but gradually recession. Got some frags that have some septa showing, but want better coverage for health purposes.
Oh okay, not sick just unhealthy. Much easier situation. Put them in normal light and flow conditions for their species (maybe slightly less flow unless it’s an indo torch). I’d do the reefroids routine anyway just cause it boosts health significantly. Make sure your cuc doesn’t get at it, I’ve had hermits pick away at hammers that showed a little tissue recession. Just make sure they’re not in a dead zone and are getting enough light. Feeding may help a little bit time and stability is what they need most. Good luck!
 

kartrsu

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Oh okay, not sick just unhealthy. Much easier situation. Put them in normal light and flow conditions for their species (maybe slightly less flow unless it’s an indo torch). I’d do the reefroids routine anyway just cause it boosts health significantly. Make sure your cuc doesn’t get at it, I’ve had hermits pick away at hammers that showed a little tissue recession. Just make sure they’re not in a dead zone and are getting enough light. Feeding may help a little bit time and stability is what they need most. Good luck!
Great game plan. Thanks and sorry to hijack this thread OP...
 
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Obligatory sorry for the blue pic

however just wanted to post an update

I started feeding some PE Calanus soaked in Selcon .

the torch has been closing up around it and seems to be more perky but no change on light.

it doesn’t seem deflated like my other hammer that got bleached .

will wait and see on colour changes
 
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Cstar_BC

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So this has been almost 3 weeks of following your advice , I have increased my light intensity . Done water changes , tracked my parameters and fed reefroids and phyto 3/week

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