Hanna Nitrate HR - Defective reagents

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rob taft

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I’m never experienced a similar issue.
When you do C1 how long does it take to change to C2?, I always rerun C1 if the checker takes more than a couple of seconds to switch to C2.
Ditto. I've noticed that if the checker doesn't quickly change from C1 to C2 the results are skewed. I observed this on both the Nitrate and ULR Phosphorus checkers I own. I have no idea why the checker does this but now if it occurs I restart the test until I get a quick change. I initially thought it might be the clarity of the exterior of the cuvette but I've use a clean microfiber cloth and it still randomly occurs.
 
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Techresq

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I have had issues as well, except mine are the opposite. My readings are very high. I tested my water when I got the checker, followed the directions word for word, even used a timer to shake the sample. The result was "flashing 75" out of range high. I tried 3 more times and same result. I even used a reagent from a different lot. When I use a chemical test my results are below 20. I tried a test with purified water and got a 3, I would imagine bottled purified water should be zero especially with a high rage checker. Is it me? or is the checker bad? If anyone has some insight I would be grateful.
 

Dan_P

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My latest few boxes of HI782 (Nitrate High Range) reagents appear to have a bunch of duds in them. Like nearly half the packets will register like 0.5-1.0 ppm NO3. Usually when that happens, I retest with another packet and I get my normal 13-15 ppm. Anybody else experiencing this?
Just saw this. Here are some ideas.

The high range nitrate chemistry seems to contain a small amount of zinc powder, making it possible to perform the test without filtration. On the downside, the chemistry that reacts nitrate with the zinc can be more sensitive to test vial contamination, the length of time and intensity of shaking, and manufacturing of the test chemical, maybe even settling in the packet. If nitrite is present, there might be a high false positive reading of nitrate (@taricha).

Observing some duds within a lot might be an issue on your end. If the entire box is a dud, or four boxes in my case, then it is the chemical. To minimize testing variability (@Rick Mathew), only use the test vials for nitrate testing and rinse them well after the test. A vinegar, citric acid or dilute HCl rinse might be a good practice. Shake as vigorously as you can for two minutes. Don’t skimp on the time. There are inexpensive electric shakers on the market (@Rick Mathew ).
 

Dan_P

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I have had issues as well, except mine are the opposite. My readings are very high. I tested my water when I got the checker, followed the directions word for word, even used a timer to shake the sample. The result was "flashing 75" out of range high. I tried 3 more times and same result. I even used a reagent from a different lot. When I use a chemical test my results are below 20. I tried a test with purified water and got a 3, I would imagine bottled purified water should be zero especially with a high rage checker. Is it me? or is the checker bad? If anyone has some insight I would be grateful.
Test for nitrites. There might be a strong nitrite interference with HR Checker .
 

Nanojoe

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Just had a dud packet. Brand new checker with reagents that came with it. The next packet i used to re-test read fine. Thought it may have been something i did. I shook for 2 minutes, press and held the checker button for 7 minute countdown..
 
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taricha

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@Dan_P i guess you didn't notice any difference in gray content between bad packets and normally funtioning ones?
 

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I have had issues as well, except mine are the opposite. My readings are very high. I tested my water when I got the checker, followed the directions word for word, even used a timer to shake the sample. The result was "flashing 75" out of range high. I tried 3 more times and same result. I even used a reagent from a different lot. When I use a chemical test my results are below 20. I tried a test with purified water and got a 3, I would imagine bottled purified water should be zero especially with a high rage checker. Is it me? or is the checker bad? If anyone has some insight I would be grateful.
I assume the chemical tester you’re talking about is API I wouldn’t trust that either
 

Dan_P

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@Dan_P i guess you didn't notice any difference in gray content between bad packets and normally funtioning ones?
Funny that you mentioned that. I would have said the replacement pack contents were grey not off white like the duds, but to my shame, I did not perform a side by side comparison.
 

Dan_P

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@Dan_P i guess you didn't notice any difference in gray content between bad packets and normally funtioning ones?
Just thought of something. Just before dumping in the powder, perform a color analysis of it and compare color of failed or low tests to successful tests. Just in case you needed ideas for something to do this summer :)
 

Techresq

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Test for nitrites. There might be a strong nitrite interference with HR Checker .
my nitrites are at zero... There is no difference in color of the packets, and yes, the chemical test is an API. I don't really trust them, the reason for a Hanna, but a difference of at least 60ppm is quite the difference.
If the nitrates were off the scale above 75ppm wouldn't it impact the corals or fish? The corals are growing great, color is good, and the fish seem fine.
 
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Dan_P

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my nitrites are at zero... There is no difference in color of the packets, and yes, the chemical test is an API. I don't really trust them, the reason for a Hanna, but a difference of at least 60ppm is quite the difference.
If the nitrates were off the scale above 75ppm wouldn't it impact the corals or fish? The corals are growing great, color is good, and the fish seem fine.
I don’t know how a nitrate test can possibly fail high other then with the presence of nitrite. I think the Hanna is giving you a good result.

Do you have a friend who runs a nitrate test that does not use API? Even another Hanna Checker and different lot of test chemical. I check my HR nitrate Checker results by diluting the sample with freshly made saltwater and test it with the low range nitrate Checker.
 

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I don’t know how a nitrate test can possibly fail high other then with the presence of nitrite. I think the Hanna is giving you a good result.

Do you have a friend who runs a nitrate test that does not use API? Even another Hanna Checker and different lot of test chemical. I check my HR nitrate Checker results by diluting the sample with freshly made saltwater and test it with the low range nitrate Checker.
I will go to my "coral dealer dude" with a sample and see what we can do. Thanks for your help
 

taricha

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I don’t know how a nitrate test can possibly fail high other then with the presence of nitrite. I think the Hanna is giving you a good result.
Here's one way to tell with the Hanna High range nitrate if your results is due to nitrite. If it starts to develop color immediately upon adding the packet, in like 10-15 seconds, then you are detecting significant nitrite interference. If the color starts forming significantly later, then it is nitrate.
(This observation is from testing for nitrate through samples some of which have measured significant NO2.)
 

Dan_P

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Here's one way to tell with the Hanna High range nitrate if your results is due to nitrite. If it starts to develop color immediately upon adding the packet, in like 10-15 seconds, then you are detecting significant nitrite interference. If the color starts forming significantly later, then it is nitrate.
(This observation is from testing for nitrate through samples some of which have measured significant NO2.)
Clever, clever. You just gave me an idea.

The API Nitrate test reagent 1 by itself detects nitrite. So, all I have to do is calibrate reagent 1 in the sample to nitrite concentration, then in the actual nitrate test, measure its color intensity before the zinc reduction step. Oh man, you could make money consulting!

Dan
 
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taricha

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Clever, clever. You just gave me an idea.

The API Nitrate test reagent 1 by itself detects nitrite. So, all I have to do is calibrate reagent 1 in the sample to nitrite concentration, then in the actual nitrate test, measure its color intensity before the zinc reduction step. Oh man, you could make money consulting!

Dan
Oh, that's really elegant. Would be quite handy if it works.
 

gbroadbridge

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Here's one way to tell with the Hanna High range nitrate if your results is due to nitrite. If it starts to develop color immediately upon adding the packet, in like 10-15 seconds, then you are detecting significant nitrite interference. If the color starts forming significantly later, then it is nitrate.
(This observation is from testing for nitrate through samples some of which have measured significant NO2.)
I wonder if the Red Sea Nitrate/Nitrite does the same.
 

taricha

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I wonder if the Red Sea Nitrate/Nitrite does the same.
No. In all these kits, only NO2 can form color...
Because red sea gray reagent (zinc) reduces the NO3->NO2 in the 1 minute shake before the color forming final step, it goes pink pretty immediately. Whether that NO2 in the last step is from NO3 as expected, or if it was NO2 all along causing interference.
Hanna 1-step is different. If NO2 is there at the beginning, color forms fast. If no NO2 interfering, then it has to reduce NO3->NO2 before it can form color and it takes longer.
 

gbroadbridge

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No. In all these kits, only NO2 can form color...
Because red sea gray reagent (zinc) reduces the NO3->NO2 in the 1 minute shake before the color forming final step, it goes pink pretty immediately. Whether that NO2 in the last step is from NO3 as expected, or if it was NO2 all along causing interference.
Hanna 1-step is different. If NO2 is there at the beginning, color forms fast. If no NO2 interfering, then it has to reduce NO3->NO2 before it can form color and it takes longer.
Got it. Thanks
 
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