Hard plumbing (diy)

Jason23

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Trying to hard plumb my rsr 350 v3. This is what I came up with so far. Manifold with space for 4 gates. So far everything seems like it would fit perfectly. Wonder if I can plumb a little longer at the end of thereturn to add a check valve with one more gate. What do you guys think? Any feedback or help welcome! Thanks in advance!!

BAE80A39-148C-4348-A1A8-F62CA9E4B9AA.jpeg 64CC5EA6-A0E1-4279-B5D7-2A7A6F1780BB.jpeg 4737A5C1-C4A7-4C12-AB1A-1ED92A2FF8E0.jpeg
 
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Jason23

Jason23

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Trying to hard plumb my rsr 350 v3. This is what I came up with so far. Manifold with space for 4 gates. So far everything seems like it would fit perfectly. Wonder if I can plumb a little longer at the end of thereturn to add a check valve with one more gate. What do you guys think? Any feedback or help welcome! Thanks in advance!!

BAE80A39-148C-4348-A1A8-F62CA9E4B9AA.jpeg 64CC5EA6-A0E1-4279-B5D7-2A7A6F1780BB.jpeg 4737A5C1-C4A7-4C12-AB1A-1ED92A2FF8E0.jpeg
First pic was with 1” pipe and the other two are 3/4 which fits like a glove. Plan on making ato tank into a refugium
 

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Following.
I have the same system and so far it has been running with a return pump and other small ones for reactors. Space in the sump is a little scarce....
What return pump are you planning to use?
 

Seadoc

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Also wondering how much flow would be impacted with this design vs. using a "Y" or "T" coupling.
 

ThePlummer

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Also wondering how much flow would be impacted with this design vs. using a "Y" or "T" coupling.
It's been my experience that I don't see a pressure drop by using a Tee as opposed to a 'sweep' on the pressure side, UNLESS you are running less pressure than the pipe is rated to handle.

Now, on the drain side, where gravity is the mechanism for flow, sweeps are required, to minimize flow reduction.

Example: If a 1/2" pipe can flow 20gpm at 50psi, and you are pushing more than 50, you won't suffer a flow loss, minus head pressure loss. However, if you use a 1" pipe that can flow 100gpm at 50psi, and you are only flowing 60psi pressure, you will suffer 'some' pressure drop by using tight tee's and elbows. I believe head pressure is more of a detrimental determining factor of flow loss than worrying about elbows.

I've been a professional plumber for over 20 years.
 
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Jason23

Jason23

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At the moment I’m running a 1000gph pump but probably going to switch it out eventually. I didn’t go in thinking about doing hard plumbing lol.
 
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Jason23

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It's been my experience that I don't see a pressure drop by using a Tee as opposed to a 'sweep' on the pressure side, UNLESS you are running less pressure than the pipe is rated to handle.

Now, on the drain side, where gravity is the mechanism for flow, sweeps are required, to minimize flow reduction.

Example: If a 1/2" pipe can flow 20gpm at 50psi, and you are pushing more than 50, you won't suffer a flow loss, minus head pressure loss. However, if you use a 1" pipe that can flow 100gpm at 50psi, and you are only flowing 60psi pressure, you will suffer 'some' pressure drop by using tight tee's and elbows. I believe head pressure is more of a detrimental determining factor of flow loss than worrying about elbows.

I've been a professional plumber for over 20 years.
I’m new to plumbing as you can see :D. Where should I add unions? After or before every elbow?
 

ThePlummer

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I’m new to plumbing as you can see :D. Where should I add unions? After or before every elbow?
Use them as sparingly as possible, as they are mechanical connections, and everything mechanical eventually fails. In fact, if you don't use any in your initial build, but plan a few critical longer pieces of pipe, at critical areas, that you can simply cut the pipes where you need to IF you ever have to move your system, then you can simply add unions then to reinstall them.

I usually only use unions, when I'm working with iron pipe, where thread connections are the only thing, as sometimes you have to have a union to connect the last piece of pipe.... It's hard to explain, until you are actually building a system, and you find a place where a union is critical.

In fact, when I'm working with plastic, and I have to cut the system apart, I plan a place that's convenient to put another glue coupling, rather than a union.

Pro tip, if you are making other than right angles, loosely dry fit the next fitting, and use a marker to make a 'higbee indicator'.... marks on the pipe and fitting that identify where you want it to be once you glue it up. And always remember to use primer on both the pipe and the inside of the fitting prior to adding glue.
 

Seadoc

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It's been my experience that I don't see a pressure drop by using a Tee as opposed to a 'sweep' on the pressure side, UNLESS you are running less pressure than the pipe is rated to handle.

Now, on the drain side, where gravity is the mechanism for flow, sweeps are required, to minimize flow reduction.

Example: If a 1/2" pipe can flow 20gpm at 50psi, and you are pushing more than 50, you won't suffer a flow loss, minus head pressure loss. However, if you use a 1" pipe that can flow 100gpm at 50psi, and you are only flowing 60psi pressure, you will suffer 'some' pressure drop by using tight tee's and elbows. I believe head pressure is more of a detrimental determining factor of flow loss than worrying about elbows.

I've been a professional plumber for over 20 years.
This is great information.
 

GlassMunky

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The one thing that i will mention that i don't think gets talked about enough with manifolds is that now EVERYTHING on your tank is running off a single pump, and the flow is balanced to each of those areas like your tank, carbon reactor etc. Now as soon as you go to adjust the flow on ANY of those, it will effect the flow of ALL of them. Meaning that if you adjust the flow through your carbon reactor, say to change the media, now you will also have to adjust the flow going to your tank as well since now all that flow that was going to your reactor is now diverted to your tank.
This isnt always an issue, but can sometimes be kind of frustrating if you're running a silent overflow like a bean animal that requires a CONSTANT flow rate through the overflow box and plumbing. Just something else to consider.
 

Seadoc

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The one thing that i will mention that i don't think gets talked about enough with manifolds is that now EVERYTHING on your tank is running off a single pump, and the flow is balanced to each of those areas like your tank, carbon reactor etc. Now as soon as you go to adjust the flow on ANY of those, it will effect the flow of ALL of them. Meaning that if you adjust the flow through your carbon reactor, say to change the media, now you will also have to adjust the flow going to your tank as well since now all that flow that was going to your reactor is now diverted to your tank.
This isnt always an issue, but can sometimes be kind of frustrating if you're running a silent overflow like a bean animal that requires a CONSTANT flow rate through the overflow box and plumbing. Just something else to consider.
I was thinking about this too and was toying with the idea of having a separate pump for all the different accessories (reactors, UV light, etc). Still thinking about the possible cons of this idea, beyond the need for a second pump and the space/power requirements.
 
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Jason23

Jason23

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I was thinking about this too and was toying with the idea of having a separate pump for all the different accessories (reactors, UV light, etc). Still thinking about the possible cons of this idea, beyond the need for a second pump and the space/power requirements.
Would adding a second pump be possible? Would the connection be a y from the return ?never thought about having 2 pumps. This is all new to me
 

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