Huge score? Anyone familiar with Innovation Marine aquariums?

[ThePlummer]

Just scored a 120gal. Innovative marine aquarium with black wood stand (boy is that thing awkward). It's called a shallow reef, so it's the same footprint as their 200gal, but it's only 18" tall.

The built in filtration section looks to be barely functional, and appears to be Plexiglas/acrylic and rather flimsy. it didn't come with any pumps or hardware (what can you expect for $200.00).

So, I'm looking for opinions on whether I should leave the aquarium as is, and just buy new pumps and such, or strip the filter out, drill for and Exotic Marine wier, and get their 55 gal. sump kit and turn my 55 into a awesome sump. Can Innovative Marine glass even be drilled?

I have a few more plans for this, once I get it off the truck and set up, I'll post some pics.

Lemme know what ideas pop into your head for this lucky barn find.

 

[kyleinpdx]

For sure remove the AIO section and drill if. If you're not comfortable doing it, I'm sure a local LFS would.

 

[JoshH]

Personally I'd leave the AIO section but drill the bottom and keep the original weir. Removing that AIO section will be a nightmare, while it's totally doable I'm not sure on a tank that size if it would be worth it... $200 is a great steal, they stopped making those in I believe 2018 and when they were for sale I think that setup with the stand was $2500+

 

[ThePlummer]

For sure remove the AIO section and drill if. If you're not comfortable doing it, I'm sure a local LFS would.

I'm good with drilling myself, I'm just a bit concerned about getting all the black silicone off the AIO section. Is there a easier way than just a sharp razor blade? I've used a pencil eraser on thin film, but never tried it with aquarium silicone. I've been told there is a difference. wouldn't want to tear into it and figure out that I can't get all the old silicone off the glass.

 

[ThePlummer]

Personally I'd leave the AIO section but drill the bottom and keep the original weir. Removing that AIO section will be a nightmare, while it's totally doable I'm not sure on a tank that size if it would be worth it... $200 is a great steal, they stopped making those in I believe 2018 and when they were for sale I think that setup with the stand was $2500+

The AIO (on preliminary visual inspection), looks to be pretty flimsy. It's bowed a bit but once it has water in it, it won't have pressure on the Plexiglas, so it may straighten up.

Now, I am concerned about the stand a bit too. It has a center brace that I'd have to cut out and modify the center to accommodate the 55 sump... And don't want to compromise the engineering on the stand... I'm sure it's got some structural reason for being there.

 

[JoshH]

The AIO (on preliminary visual inspection), looks to be pretty flimsy. It's bowed a bit but once it has water in it, it won't have pressure on the Plexiglas, so it may straighten up.

Now, I am concerned about the stand a bit too. It has a center brace that I'd have to cut out and modify the center to accommodate the 55 sump... And don't want to compromise the engineering on the stand... I'm sure it's got some structural reason for being there.

Interesting, all of there AIO's to my knowledge had a glass divider with acrylic panel laminated in front. This tank might be a bit older than I thought. I probably wouldn't heavily modify the stand given the material it's made of (MDF). Could you run dual 20-30 gallon tanks and run bulkheads and pipe between the two through the center brace?

 

[ThePlummer]

Interesting, all of there AIO's to my knowledge had a glass divider with acrylic panel laminated in front. This tank might be a bit older than I thought. I probably wouldn't heavily modify the stand given the material it's made of (MDF). Could you run dual 20-30 gallon tanks and run bulkheads and pipe between the two through the center brace?

You are correct.... Now that it's off the truck and in place, I can see that the AIO is glass, with a black piece of Plexiglas laminated over it.... Your dual sump idea shows promise. But I'm going to see if there's a structural way to cut arches in the dividers..... Roman engineering style.... gonna think a while, unless someone has more ideas.

 

[Ameer214]

I bought a used sr80. Similar tank as yours, but smaller. I removed the back section. Not too difficult. A nice new blade will help. I drilled a hole and added a ghost type overflow. The tank is doing great. I want the one you have now, so I can go bigger. I really like the dimensions of this style.

 

[ThePlummer]

Tanks in place, and full of water... so far no leaks... It's pretty filthy though.... I'm letting it soak a while before we clean it up. Still haven't decided whether or not to leave the AIO section or strip it out. I filled it from the AIO section and noticed small leaks into the main tank... I suspect this is not critical, just as long as it doesn't leak outside.

The black coating on the back is pretty scored up. Looking to remove it and paint the glass to bring it back up to new looking. There are also a couple of fine scratches on the inside of the glass... Is there a hand polish to clean those up?

Also, looking to buy the 72" Loop bundle from Current USA. I've got one of their 18" lights on a Innovative Marine 14 peninsula and really like it... corals are doing great. I've found the 72" bundle (2 wave pumps, 1 sump (over 3000gph) two lights, brackets and the controller for less than 1300 bucks. I'm planning on adding a second identical return pump to the system though for redundancy. If I go that route.

I've emailed Exotic Marine to see if they would custom make an additional chamber for a RDSB in the sump with the parameters, and also make me the 1.5" drain in the 48" version... Haven't heard back yet from them (didn't expect to on a Sunday)... I suppose what they say will determine whether I keep the AIO or strip it out.

My plan is to take some base rock and saw it in half with my concrete saw and silicone it to the back of the aquarium, for a custom 3D background. then add a few branch rocks in the middle of the tank for the aquascape. If I'm correct, this will give the effect of a much deeper tank to the eye.

I also have a idea on the returns... I'm going to drill 4 returns, 2 high and two low, and put a siphon break attached to the weir so it breaks siphon and doesn't flood the refugium/sump if a power failure.

 

[ThePlummer]

Update: Decided to cut out the AIO (All in one) fliter and add a custom sump/RDSB/Refugium. Since there aren't any on the market with a RDSB that I can find, I contacted Exotic Marine, and he's willing to make me a kit for a 55 gal. aquarium with a RDSB. We are also going to use one of his overflow boxes, but since it's set up as a peninsula, I'm going to request that he not drill the holes in the weir and I'll put them where I want them once it arrives. Also, I'm going to request a custom 60" weir because as a peninsula configuration ( even though we are painting the back), I want to draw water from the end, in hopes of not having to put wave pumps on the show end.

I've removed the black plastic background also, and will paint it soon. I'm thinking of making the back of the aquarium the front and drilling the front, as there are numerous fine scratches in it, and am not inclined to work that hard to polish them out. What can you expect for $200.00?

I'm also leaning toward Current USA's Loop bundle. $1200.00 for two 72" lights, two wave pumps, and a 3100GPH sump pump seems rather reasonable. I'm currently using Current USA lights on a Innovative Marine 14 Peninsula and it appears that the coral frags are quite liking it. I've been told that Current USA aren't a good option because their lights are rather low power, but since this is a 'shallow reef' configuration, I think they will be adequate.

I am going to request in the Loop Bundle that they exchange the 3100 GPH return pump, for two 1900 GPH pumps though, as I'm a big believer in redundancy.

I'd take a pic, but there's not much to look at right now, as it's just a empty glass box.

 

[Ltlevil1]

I purchased an IM50-INT last year and it has been n service ~11 months. I also found a Fiji15 cube sump fits right under with the two 1" return holes located directly under the returns in the tank. The third (emergency) is plumbed into the skimmer section. This is one of the only aftermarket tanks set up with a "BEANANIMAL" overflow with no additional requirements. A note about the sump, you must put it in prior to putting the door brace structure in. If I had it to do all over again, I'm pretty sure I would build a stand, table, enclosure, etc... out of 80/20 or equivalent. Right now my Apex electronics are mounted to a piece of ABS marine board inside an IM20 stand.

 

[Fishingandreefing]

Update: Decided to cut out the AIO (All in one) fliter and add a custom sump/RDSB/Refugium. Since there aren't any on the market with a RDSB that I can find, I contacted Exotic Marine, and he's willing to make me a kit for a 55 gal. aquarium with a RDSB. We are also going to use one of his overflow boxes, but since it's set up as a peninsula, I'm going to request that he not drill the holes in the weir and I'll put them where I want them once it arrives. Also, I'm going to request a custom 60" weir because as a peninsula configuration ( even though we are painting the back), I want to draw water from the end, in hopes of not having to put wave pumps on the show end.

I've removed the black plastic background also, and will paint it soon. I'm thinking of making the back of the aquarium the front and drilling the front, as there are numerous fine scratches in it, and am not inclined to work that hard to polish them out. What can you expect for $200.00?

I'm also leaning toward Current USA's Loop bundle. $1200.00 for two 72" lights, two wave pumps, and a 3100GPH sump pump seems rather reasonable. I'm currently using Current USA lights on a Innovative Marine 14 Peninsula and it appears that the coral frags are quite liking it. I've been told that Current USA aren't a good option because their lights are rather low power, but since this is a 'shallow reef' configuration, I think they will be adequate.

I am going to request in the Loop Bundle that they exchange the 3100 GPH return pump, for two 1900 GPH pumps though, as I'm a big believer in redundancy.

I'd take a pic, but there's not much to look at right now, as it's just a empty glass box.

I don’t think current lights are good and with that money you have lots of options

 

[ThePlummer]

I purchased an IM50-INT last year and it has been n service ~11 months. I also found a Fiji15 cube sump fits right under with the two 1" return holes located directly under the returns in the tank. The third (emergency) is plumbed into the skimmer section. This is one of the only aftermarket tanks set up with a "BEANANIMAL" overflow with no additional requirements. A note about the sump, you must put it in prior to putting the door brace structure in. If I had it to do all over again, I'm pretty sure I would build a stand, table, enclosure, etc... out of 80/20 or equivalent. Right now my Apex electronics are mounted to a piece of ABS marine board inside an IM20 stand.

As it looks right now, I have a 55 gal that I'm going to convert to a sump, it's only 13" deep, so I'm going to cut out a notch in two of the cabinet risers. This should leave enough structure on the risers to continue to do their job supporting the 120. If I went with a 40 breeder or a 75 gallon, they are too wide IMHO and cutting out part of that structure would potentially weaken the support for the weight of the 120.

I also had to order some new foam pad, as a corner of this one is missing, and I'm noticing that the remaining water after draining is pooling in that one corner. This is telling me that (I didn't think glass did this) was sagging a bit and it needs complete support across the entire bottom.

Also, Ironically the top of the cabinet isn't truly square to the aquarium. On the short side the top is out over 3/4" from front to back, and I'm totally lined up on all three other sides. Seems manufacturing isn't totally up to par here. Not sure how I'm going to fix that, as I had hoped I wouldn't have to refinish the cabinet, even though I'm not too keen on the black. But since the majority of the stand is particle board covered with vinyl, Painting is about the only option (other than some expensive verneer's. My friend wants me to doll up the doors anyway and make them look like a six panel door. Ohh, boy, this is getting involved.

Gonna finish cutting out the remaining silicone where the AIO was, probably tonight, and cleaning up the back to see if the back is in better shape than the front, as there are numerous scratches and don't feel like an extensive glass restoration. Not sure if that's even an option as the glass appears to have a bit of a dark coloration and am afraid I might sand through a coating, if that's why it's darker appearing.

I though IM used low iron glass that is very natural and clear.

Maybe this project is more than I've bargained for.... Just kidding...

 

[ThePlummer]

I don’t think current lights are good and with that money you have lots of options

If they aren't, I'm thinking I'll just supplement them with some actenic t5's.

 

[kyleinpdx]

Also, Ironically the top of the cabinet isn't truly square to the aquarium. On the short side the top is out over 3/4" from front to back, and I'm totally lined up on all three other sides. Seems manufacturing isn't totally up to par here. Not sure how I'm going to fix that, as I had hoped I wouldn't have to refinish the cabinet, even though I'm not too keen on the black. But since the majority of the stand is particle board covered with vinyl, Painting is about the only option (other than some expensive verneer's. My friend wants me to doll up the doors anyway and make them look like a six panel door. Ohh, boy, this is getting involved.


Maybe this project is more than I've bargained for.... Just kidding...

I thought they only sold these with the APS stands (extruded alu) if you have the particleboard stand and it isnt exactly perfect for what you need, absolutely build one that is. A basic "rocketengineer" dimensional lumber stand, an all plywood (if you are good at joinery) stand or building/buying an aluminum (think 8020) stand are all options. You're not going to want to drain and disassemble the tank later on, so now is the time to get it how you want it. If you've got a miter or table saw you can make a wooden stand in a few hours.

 

[ThePlummer]

I thought they only sold these with the APS stands (extruded alu) if you have the particleboard stand and it isnt exactly perfect for what you need, absolutely build one that is. A basic "rocketengineer" dimensional lumber stand, an all plywood (if you are good at joinery) stand or building/buying an aluminum (think 8020) stand are all options. You're not going to want to drain and disassemble the tank later on, so now is the time to get it how you want it. If you've got a miter or table saw you can make a wooden stand in a few hours.

Well, apparently this one's a bit older. Here's a pic of it... Take note of those special, handy dandy seahorse door pulls... Must be 'factory'...

Whatcha think of the ol' 14 with the castle scape....Got some Mangroves to put behind the castle, but growing them out right now, they aren't quite tall enough to plant.

 

[kyleinpdx]

That tanks a big boy. How tall is it from the floor to the top of the glass? I'd build a stand that fits your needs, if you aren't familiar with it, check out this suggestion.

I spy a railing outside the glass doors, I'm hoping its a deck and not balcony.

 

[ThePlummer]

Bought a can of Plasti Dip spray on rubber, to paint the back again... The original black film had a bit of road rash on it, so it had to come off.

I'm thinking I'm gonna wait till I get the holes drilled before I shoot it... And that may be a while... That things heavy and I don't want to have to move it more than once, so I'm waiting for the new rubber mat to show up.

 

[ThePlummer]

That tanks a big boy. How tall is it from the floor to the top of the glass? I'd build a stand that fits your needs, if you aren't familiar with it, check out this suggestion.

I spy a railing outside the glass doors, I'm hoping its a deck and not balcony.

Ohh, probably right at 5' high, give or take a millimeter or two. Yeah, that's a deck.... But it is in a double wide modular.... That was a bit of an issue too. The floor joists are only 2X6 so I had a limited place to put the aquarium. So I picked the center of the house, so it crosses as many joists as possible, and right over the center support beam....

Might not be ideal.... But It'll be..... Just fine....

I hope...

Hope one can see that the spring loaded magnetic touch latches are destroyed.... Gonna give a good look around to see if I can find some replacements.... They're kinda cool... Never seen any like that with a 2" throw on them.

Also.... Not quite sure of this marvelous feat of engineering.... I suppose those are lightening holes... Good thing it has them, that sucker is still heavy... I think I strained my milk getting her off the truck and in the door.

Not exactly sure what I'm gonna do to cover that crap up.... Thought about some beadboard paneling, with some of that magical black paint.... That I really don't like.

 

[ThePlummer]

I've got a feeling this is what this unit was supposed to look like from new.