Helios Heater elements or BRS

Dweezilz

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I am thinking about replacing my heaters this year with Helios heaters. I see that I can get the Helios controller with the standard IM Helios elements or BRS sells the Helios controller with their BRS elements. Any opinions on which are better? I know there's something about the Helios units that in theory can only get stuck in the 'off' position I think, but wasn't sure if that still worked if you get the BRS elements.
 

StatelineReefer

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There are two Helios types, one with a proprietary plug, and one with a universal plug, Go universal, use BRS elements, and the default to off is hard coded into both units.
 
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Dweezilz

Dweezilz

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I just read that the BRS elements in the 400w (200w x 2) package I need are very long...sadly too long for my Reefer 250 V1 sump. My current Finnex are 8" and they are still sticking under my filter socks a bit... The BRS are 10" so I think that is a no go. The Helios are only 7". I wish those BRS weren't so long. I think I have to go with the Helios elements.

I suppose I could get the $40 Finnex again and just keep replacing them every year. I don't like that the Finnex are always off by 2-3 degrees and have to set them to 80'ish to get 78.
 

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I just read that the BRS elements in the 400w (200w x 2) package I need are very long...sadly too long for my Reefer 250 V1 sump. My current Finnex are 8" and they are still sticking under my filter socks a bit... The BRS are 10" so I think that is a no go. The Helios are only 7". I wish those BRS weren't so long. I think I have to go with the Helios elements.

I suppose I could get the $40 Finnex again and just keep replacing them every year. I don't like that the Finnex are always off by 2-3 degrees and have to set them to 80'ish to get 78.
Get the dual Finnex and control them with the Helios.
 

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Actually the Helios are safer and used a temperature ceramic in them. They heaters also have a probe in them that has to be in range with the other probe, otherwise they will shut off and throw an error code. So that means your probe has to be in the same place as your element. I am really happy with mine. (once I figured out the probe thing)
 
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Dweezilz

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Actually the Helios are safer and used a temperature ceramic in them. They heaters also have a probe in them that has to be in range with the other probe, otherwise they will shut off and throw an error code. So that means your probe has to be in the same place as your element. I am really happy with mine. (once I figured out the probe thing)
Since I keep both elements in my sump then the probe needs to be there too? Is that to create a redundant temp check? I'm wondering what the benefit of that is? I guess my secondary inkbird probe can go in the tank.
 

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Since I keep both elements in my sump then the probe needs to be there too? Is that to create a redundant temp check? I'm wondering what the benefit of that is? I guess my secondary inkbird probe can go in the tank.
So you are trying to use both inkbird and Helios controllers together?

If you have the money and want redundancy, go with the dual element Helios smart PTC. If you’re on a budget and like the finnex, go with the universal Helios with dual finnex.

Unless the Helios temp probe and the finnex internal element breaks at the same time, it won’t be stuck on.

PTC is safest.
 

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Since I keep both elements in my sump then the probe needs to be there too? Is that to create a redundant temp check? I'm wondering what the benefit of that is? I guess my secondary inkbird probe can go in the tank.
Yes the probe needs to be in the same area of the sump. So "no" elements in the sock section and the probe in the return section. If it is a cold day and the pumps go off during feeding time, you will throw a code and the heaters will turn off. It is meant to be a redundant safety system. If you are using your inkbird as a saftey you can throw that in the sump as well. The Helios also has an audible alarm if it throws a code. I have my apex shut off my hellios if it hits 79, I have it set for 77
 

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Definitely look into ranco controller if haven’t already. Been using one 4 years with two eheim heaters with 0 issues. It’s very accurate and so far perfect.
 

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RANCO ETC-211000​


U need minor diy work to do. It’s widely used in the brewing hobby
 

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I have had Helios for two years now, plug it in and forget it. Works great, two for 200.
 
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Dweezilz

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So you are trying to use both inkbird and Helios controllers together?

If you have the money and want redundancy, go with the dual element Helios smart PTC. If you’re on a budget and like the finnex, go with the universal Helios with dual finnex.

Unless the Helios temp probe and the finnex internal element breaks at the same time, it won’t be stuck on.

PTC is safest.
Currently I have two finnex set to 80 plugged into the wifi enabled inkbird set to 78 which gives me redundancy. I am just replacing them after a year to be safe. I would do the same setup with the inkbird and Helios. I know people do the opposite and have the inkbird at 80 and the heater controllers at 78 but that's a debate as to which is more suspectable to fail. Either way two things need to fail at the same time to have an issue. By doing the inkbird and Helios together it is the same basic setup I have now except one Helios controller vs two finnex controllers and elements into the inkbird which has two plugs. How does one dual element Helios provide the same redundancy if the Helios controller gets stuck on somehow? There isn't a higher temp failsafe is there? Are we saying with a Helios you do not need a secondary controller at all and the elements can turn themselves off if the controller has an issue? Is it a smart controller like the inkbird where I get notified on my mobile device if the temp is out of range?
 
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Dweezilz

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Definitely look into ranco controller if haven’t already. Been using one 4 years with two eheim heaters with 0 issues. It’s very accurate and so far perfect.
The eheim are far too long for my sump and with the ranco it's just more dyi than I want. Plus no smart option for notifications unless I get a Hydros or similar controller.
 

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Currently I have two finnex set to 80 plugged into the wifi enabled inkbird set to 78 which gives me redundancy. I am just replacing them after a year to be safe. I would do the same setup with the inkbird and Helios. I know people do the opposite and have the inkbird at 80 and the heater controllers at 78 but that's a debate as to which is more suspectable to fail. Either way two things need to fail at the same time to have an issue. By doing the inkbird and Helios together it is the same basic setup I have now except one Helios controller vs two finnex controllers and elements into the inkbird which has two plugs. How does one dual element Helios provide the same redundancy if the Helios controller gets stuck on somehow? There isn't a higher temp failsafe is there? Are we saying with a Helios you do not need a secondary controller at all and the elements can turn themselves off if the controller has an issue? Is it a smart controller like the inkbird where I get notified on my mobile device if the temp is out of range?
The Helios PTC get stuck “off” if the heater elements ever fail. Now the controller could fail before the elements and get stuck “on” I suppose, but I’m not really sure how plausible that is to happen.
 
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Dweezilz

Dweezilz

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I think my plan is to get the Helio 400w (200x2) and set it up with the inkbird wifi controller. That way I get redundancy and smart features. I'll reverse what I've been doing and use the inkbird as the backup set to 80 and let the Helio control things to 78.
 

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I think my plan is to get the Helio 400w (200x2) and set it up with the inkbird wifi controller. That way I get redundancy and smart features. I'll reverse what I've been doing and use the inkbird as the backup set to 80 and let the Helio control things to 78.
That's how I have mine set, except instead of the inkbird on the big tank I have the apex doing the back up
 

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So the plus with Helios elements is that the ceramic heating elements are temperature specific. And there is a probe inside the element that monitors the temperature. The fail safe is if the element probe and the sump probe are different. Then it shuts down. I think by design it would be impossible to have the element to stick on because it needs the feed back loop to operate.
 

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