Helios Heater elements or BRS

[Dweezilz]

So the plus with Helios elements is that the ceramic heating elements are temperature specific. And there is a probe inside the element that monitors the temperature. The fail safe is if the element probe and the sump probe are different. Then it shuts down. I think by design it would be impossible to have the element to stick on because it needs the feed back loop to operate.

Sounds like the exact reason for me to get their probes vs. BRS and the original info I was looking for. Thanks! If coupled behind another controller like the Inkbird or even better a Hydros or Apex, then it's tons of redundancy and smart feedback which is fantastic.

 

[jerses]

throw on an aqua logic controller. has always worked to perfection.

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

I run the Helios on 2 of my tanks, Been pretty solid. My other tanks are on bayite controllers with older glass heaters. Both.ways work. Main thing is never trust the built in temp from any heater

 

[Dweezilz]

Well, I took the dive and purchased a lightly used Hydros X4. I'm going to use my Helio 200wx2 heater as the main controller and have the Hydros be the backup if it detects the temp is 80. I spent far more than I wanted but I needed other controls too like the ATO container water level etc...so was going to do it at some point anyway. All good to go!

 

[DHill6]

Actually the Helios are safer and used a temperature ceramic in them. They heaters also have a probe in them that has to be in range with the other probe, otherwise they will shut off and throw an error code. So that means your probe has to be in the same place as your element. I am really happy with mine. (once I figured out the probe thing)

What? IM had me move the temp probe in front of a mp10 in the dt, when I feed it doesn’t throw codes since the mp10 is still moving slowly . The elements are in the sump.

 

[blaxsun]

+1 Helios.

 

[Dweezilz]

What? IM had me move the temp probe in front of a mp10 in the dt, when I feed it doesn’t throw codes since the mp10 is still moving slowly . The elements are in the sump.

Yeah that's odd. Near the elements could be a degree or two higher than the display so most I would think want to measure in the display like inside the overflow etc.

 

[DHill6]

Yes, I would want the display temp over the sump temp, especially if the elements are in a small compartment, mine are in the uptake compartment of a reefer 170 sump so it’s definitely small.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

What? IM had me move the temp probe in front of a mp10 in the dt, when I feed it doesn’t throw codes since the mp10 is still moving slowly . The elements are in the sump.

Maybe it was his first day. I have an actual different experience with both IM and personal experience with the heater. The reason yours may not be throwing codes is it is still within range.

 

[Dweezilz]

Maybe it was his first day. I have an actual different experience with both IM and personal experience with the heater. The reason yours may not be throwing codes is it is still within range.

I emailed IM this afternoon and they replied that it's fine to place the probe in the display even if the element is in the sump as long as it's in a place that can pickup the temp change coming from the sump. It's possible the overflow might be ok since it will be a good mix. I'd think once the display and sump reach it's final equilibrium moving the probe can be just a trial and error (no pun intended) thing until you find the sweet spot. I sure hope it's ok in the overflow since that's where I want it to be. If you have good flow I'd guess it makes things easier.

 

[robotrash]

I emailed IM this afternoon and they replied that it's fine to place the probe in the display even if the element is in the sump as long as it's in a place that can pickup the temp change coming from the sump. It's possible the overflow might be ok since it will be a good mix. I'd think once the display and sump reach it's final equilibrium moving the probe can be just a trial and error (no pun intended) thing until you find the sweet spot. I sure hope it's ok in the overflow since that's where I want it to be. If you have good flow I'd guess it makes things easier.

FWIW, in my AIO I have the probe in the display and the element in the chamber before the return. When I shut off the return/wave to feed I get a low flow error which self corrects and clears after I turn the return/wave back on. I do lose a degree or so if I forget to turn the return back on for an hour or so, but no other errors.

 

[DHill6]

Maybe it was his first day. I have an actual different experience with both IM and personal experience with the heater. The reason yours may not be throwing codes is it is still within range.

Wasn’t his first day. This is to avoid the low flow code when feeding and there’s less water movement. I’ve had this system since it was first released, I have experience with it including two elements having to be replaced. Excellent customer support.
I have Mobius controlling the mp10s and main pump, slows it all down to feed but there’s still movement.

 

[DHill6]

I emailed IM this afternoon and they replied that it's fine to place the probe in the display even if the element is in the sump as long as it's in a place that can pickup the temp change coming from the sump. It's possible the overflow might be ok since it will be a good mix. I'd think once the display and sump reach its final equilibrium moving the probe can be just a trial and error (no pun intended) thing until you find the sweet spot. I sure hope it's ok in the overflow since that's where I want it to be. If you have good flow I'd guess it makes things easier.

I have the temp probe from Hydros in the overflow. The temp probe from Helios in the dt, not far from the overflow but in line with a mp10.