Although skinning a stand made from dimensional lumber is the "tried and true" method, I would suggest that any decent grade plywood is much more stable than any 2x lumber on the market.
I've built both types - if your carpentry skills aren't as good as they could be, then a skinned 2x stand is a great choice. If, on the other hand, you can make square cuts on a table saw and are familiar with the various options for joinery then using plywood will allow for considerable more space in the sump area and be rock solid stable. My go-to would be pocket hole screws and glue for a project like this. Quick, simple, and plenty strong.
mrpizzaface
Well-Known Member
MDF finishes better than most plywood. MDF is typically flatter than most plywood. MDF will typically exhibit less warping properties than Plywood, and certainly less than dimension lumber. MDF will absorb moisture when not properly sealed. If I were building a cabinet and looking to achieve that modern Red Sea aesthetic, I would choose an MDF product called MR Fiber. MR Fiber is an oil impregnated water resistant MDF. You can buy MR Fiber from most better lumber yards (the type of place a cabinet shop would purchase lumber and plywood).
I would cut all my pieces to size and glue size (mixture of water and wood glue) the edges a minimum of three times, sanding between all coats. You should then be good to assemble the cabinet and finish it in whichever method you choose. I would prime a minimum of two times sanding between coats and apply at least two coats of finish.
Finished properly MDF can withstand a pretty decent amount of moisture.
I would cut all my pieces to size and glue size (mixture of water and wood glue) the edges a minimum of three times, sanding between all coats. You should then be good to assemble the cabinet and finish it in whichever method you choose. I would prime a minimum of two times sanding between coats and apply at least two coats of finish.
Finished properly MDF can withstand a pretty decent amount of moisture.
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siggy
My Aquariums Going Again
Don't forget the Biscuits and gravy ! The home stores have Oak, maple, cherry and birch skinned ply that is ready to finish. You will need at least 2 sheets of ply @$55 per plus screws glue pocket jig stain hinges ..are the doors going to be ply and will you edge band? If you have the tools and skills it could be economical . If you want furniture grade then call LFS to see if they have a cabinet shop building these things. I got a cherry cabinet with a extra side door for 400, and oak was 325 and pine was 225. It may be worth the phone call
@jsker
CPL376
Community Member
Without actually reading all of the other peoples recommendations I can say with 100% certainty. DO NOT USE MDF!!! That can't be stressed enough. MDF isn't load bearing. It's basically sawdust and glue. Plywood is a much better choice.
mstockmaster
Active Member
I've done both ways. My stand for my old 75 gallon rift lake freshwater setup was 100% furniture grade oak faced ply. It was absolutely rock solid. A 180 stand with similar construction would do fine. But, if you want a modern stand and try to use ply you'll end up with end grain showing which isn't a good look. Only way to get around that is to trim the corners with moulding or other wood. Which detracts from the modern look. Of course if you're painting it you can fill the ends with putty and sand and all that. For my reef tank I combined the typical 2x4 stand construction with an external skin of jointed panels. There's the 2x4 base, then a layer of 1/2 inch ply for stability, then an external layer of jointed poplar. It's extremely overkill for a 40b. In a tornado I don't go to the basement, I hide under the tank.
mrpizzaface
Well-Known Member
All materials have some type of load bearing capability. It is the amount of load they can handle that changes. MDF when properly sealed is a fine choice for making a stand.
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Just seeing this.
CPL376
Community Member
I can tell you with all certainty msg is not suitable for a tank stand. It has no structure it is literally sawdust and glue. Check it out for yourself even the manufacturer doesn't recommend it for support sealed or not
mrpizzaface
Well-Known Member
I will agree MSG is not suitable for a tank stand. ;)
MDF on the other hand will work for an aquarium stand. I think for an ultra modern seamless look it is the best choice. Many manufacturers sell MDF stands. Many hobbyists have MDF stands. I am not saying it is the best choice or the be all end all of materials. I think it is a good choice if you want an ultra modern Red Sea looking tank stand.
MDF will require care in its use. It is not a set it and forget it material. Proper sealing is required(especially the edges) Spills must be wiped up. Procedures should be implemented to evacuate humidity from the stand.
MR Fiber should be used instead of MDF if possible.
None of this pertains to Ultralight MDF, which should not be used for a tank stand.
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Greybeard
2500 Club Member
Looks like it's all been said... but I'll throw in my $0.02 worth.
To the original question, yes, undoubtedly, you can make a stand out of plywood that doesn't require a dimensional lumber frame. I've done so, many times. With good materials, glue, and joinery techniques, you can far exceed the strength of a 2x4 pine stand.
OSB or MDF are no-no's in my book. Why? If the sealer coat fails, they're mush. I have an MDF top on my reloading bench, sealed with poly. Been using it for 15 years or so, no problems... BUT. It's not carrying a huge glass box full of water, either. The amount of damage a collapsed aquarium stand is capable of doing to your home has to be factored in... something that will retain some strength if it happens to get wet would seem the least precaution you could take. I know, others do it... that's their choice, but I won't be using it in my home. Edge finish on ply? There are many techniques that work fine, from as simple as iron on edge banding, to framing with solid wood... to cutting joints at a 45 so there is no edge grain showing. It's not that difficult to come up with something acceptable.
Pocket screws seem to be all the rage among the plywood builders these days. It's a fine technique, but it's not the ONLY technique you should consider. Look at each joint, what kind of pressure it's going to be under, and decide on a case by case basis. Biscuit joints are what I typically use, rather than pocket screws. Stronger, and simple, but you do have to have the right tools. Dado and Rabbit joints also seem to find their way into any plywood stand I've ever made, as do butt joints backed with hardwood glue blocks.
With all that said... my latest stand is welded, powder coated steel. Why? Cheap, strong, and allows for a very open design. I'm probably done building large wooden aquarium stands. In my opinion, steel is simply a better material for this purpose. The downside, of course, is that you have to either have the skills and tools to work with this material, or be willing to pay someone else to do so. I had a small fab shop build my steel stand to my specifications, cost me less than what the lumber would have cost to do it myself.
To the original question, yes, undoubtedly, you can make a stand out of plywood that doesn't require a dimensional lumber frame. I've done so, many times. With good materials, glue, and joinery techniques, you can far exceed the strength of a 2x4 pine stand.
OSB or MDF are no-no's in my book. Why? If the sealer coat fails, they're mush. I have an MDF top on my reloading bench, sealed with poly. Been using it for 15 years or so, no problems... BUT. It's not carrying a huge glass box full of water, either. The amount of damage a collapsed aquarium stand is capable of doing to your home has to be factored in... something that will retain some strength if it happens to get wet would seem the least precaution you could take. I know, others do it... that's their choice, but I won't be using it in my home. Edge finish on ply? There are many techniques that work fine, from as simple as iron on edge banding, to framing with solid wood... to cutting joints at a 45 so there is no edge grain showing. It's not that difficult to come up with something acceptable.
Pocket screws seem to be all the rage among the plywood builders these days. It's a fine technique, but it's not the ONLY technique you should consider. Look at each joint, what kind of pressure it's going to be under, and decide on a case by case basis. Biscuit joints are what I typically use, rather than pocket screws. Stronger, and simple, but you do have to have the right tools. Dado and Rabbit joints also seem to find their way into any plywood stand I've ever made, as do butt joints backed with hardwood glue blocks.
With all that said... my latest stand is welded, powder coated steel. Why? Cheap, strong, and allows for a very open design. I'm probably done building large wooden aquarium stands. In my opinion, steel is simply a better material for this purpose. The downside, of course, is that you have to either have the skills and tools to work with this material, or be willing to pay someone else to do so. I had a small fab shop build my steel stand to my specifications, cost me less than what the lumber would have cost to do it myself.
Been a carpenter for 30 years, built many stands, and all I can say is MDF sucks!
I have built cabinets that finished out as glossy as it gets, just use a quality ply like birch, not just regular ply, something that has a smooth sanded finish.
Sure MDF will hold against water if sealed, but eventually that seal will fail.
If you are building something nice, and plan to keep it a long time, MDF is not the best option, not for marine applications.
And don't get me started on how loaded it is w/ glue and chemicals, I get headaches every time I'm forced to work w it.
I have built cabinets that finished out as glossy as it gets, just use a quality ply like birch, not just regular ply, something that has a smooth sanded finish.
Sure MDF will hold against water if sealed, but eventually that seal will fail.
If you are building something nice, and plan to keep it a long time, MDF is not the best option, not for marine applications.
And don't get me started on how loaded it is w/ glue and chemicals, I get headaches every time I'm forced to work w it.
You're going to need to brace your stand
It's holding over half a ton. My opinion, you should build a suitable structure out of 2×4s. Two 72 x 24 rectangles, top and bottom frame with center bracing 12 to 18 inches apart and attach with wood screws.
It's holding over half a ton. My opinion, you should build a suitable structure out of 2×4s. Two 72 x 24 rectangles, top and bottom frame with center bracing 12 to 18 inches apart and attach with wood screws.
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