Help ID’ing Potential Clownfish Issue

LoganF713

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Hi everyone. We recently started up a new reef tank (JBJ 45 AIO) and got 2 clowns as the first inhabitants. One is lively, while the other - not so much. He seems to hide while the lights are on (pretty much all day) but as soon as the lights go off, he comes out starts to swim a bit, and hang out with the other clown.

He doesn’t seem to eat very much, a couple days ago when we fed, he would see some pellets float by, seem kinda interested, but then not eat.

Earlier today, I noticed that his mouth was open, and (I think) slight discoloration around the mouth (I only really noticed it under the blue light, but it’s hard to see, if at all, under no light/white light).

Other tank mates are hawkfish, starry blenny, six line wrasse, 2 light foots, and a few snails. Frogspawn, toadstool, and a GSP. All of whom seem to be happy.

Current Params with an API test kit:

Temp: 76.6
Salinity: 1.026
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0.25 (completing a partial WC and adding some additional beneficial bacteria to lower this)
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 5-10
Calcium: 440
KH/Alkalinity: ~7-8
Phosphates: 0

I added a couple photos and a video of the clown in question. In the photos the tank lights are off, at night, light is from the main room lighting. Please let me know if he’s fine and just being a clown, or if there is something more serious underlying issue?
IMG_8143.jpeg
IMG_8144.jpeg
IMG_8147.jpeg
 

Subsea

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I see this is your first post. Welcome to r2r.

I think your clown is fine. How long is recently set up? Would you provide a full tank shot with white light? Stress from shipping and new environment is handled differently by different fish. Hiding places provide security and allow more natural behavior. Your 6 line wrasse may be more aggressive than a shy fish needs.
 

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I'm also thinking its an aggression issue, clowns don't really hide. Fish are behaved when we are close so you may not witness it, but I think its happening.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Hi everyone. We recently started up a new reef tank (JBJ 45 AIO) and got 2 clowns as the first inhabitants. One is lively, while the other - not so much. He seems to hide while the lights are on (pretty much all day) but as soon as the lights go off, he comes out starts to swim a bit, and hang out with the other clown.

He doesn’t seem to eat very much, a couple days ago when we fed, he would see some pellets float by, seem kinda interested, but then not eat.

Earlier today, I noticed that his mouth was open, and (I think) slight discoloration around the mouth (I only really noticed it under the blue light, but it’s hard to see, if at all, under no light/white light).

Other tank mates are hawkfish, starry blenny, six line wrasse, 2 light foots, and a few snails. Frogspawn, toadstool, and a GSP. All of whom seem to be happy.

Current Params with an API test kit:

Temp: 76.6
Salinity: 1.026
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0.25 (completing a partial WC and adding some additional beneficial bacteria to lower this)
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 5-10
Calcium: 440
KH/Alkalinity: ~7-8
Phosphates: 0

I added a couple photos and a video of the clown in question. In the photos the tank lights are off, at night, light is from the main room lighting. Please let me know if he’s fine and just being a clown, or if there is something more serious underlying issue?
IMG_8143.jpeg
IMG_8144.jpeg
IMG_8147.jpeg

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

The clown in the video does look lethargic, but that isn't a symptom of any specific diseases.

I want to key in on the feeding issue. You wrote,

"He doesn’t seem to eat very much, a couple days ago when we fed, he would see some pellets float by, seem kinda interested, but then not eat."

Can you clarify this a bit more;

How long have you had this fish?
What species of hawkfish do you have?
Did it eat better in the past, or has this been an issue the whole time you have had the fish?
Are you only feeding every couple of days?
Have you tried foods other than pellets?
Is the other clown eating well?
 

vetteguy53081

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Hi everyone. We recently started up a new reef tank (JBJ 45 AIO) and got 2 clowns as the first inhabitants. One is lively, while the other - not so much. He seems to hide while the lights are on (pretty much all day) but as soon as the lights go off, he comes out starts to swim a bit, and hang out with the other clown.

He doesn’t seem to eat very much, a couple days ago when we fed, he would see some pellets float by, seem kinda interested, but then not eat.

Earlier today, I noticed that his mouth was open, and (I think) slight discoloration around the mouth (I only really noticed it under the blue light, but it’s hard to see, if at all, under no light/white light).

Other tank mates are hawkfish, starry blenny, six line wrasse, 2 light foots, and a few snails. Frogspawn, toadstool, and a GSP. All of whom seem to be happy.

Current Params with an API test kit:

Temp: 76.6
Salinity: 1.026
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0.25 (completing a partial WC and adding some additional beneficial bacteria to lower this)
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 5-10
Calcium: 440
KH/Alkalinity: ~7-8
Phosphates: 0

I added a couple photos and a video of the clown in question. In the photos the tank lights are off, at night, light is from the main room lighting. Please let me know if he’s fine and just being a clown, or if there is something more serious underlying issue?
IMG_8143.jpeg
IMG_8144.jpeg
IMG_8147.jpeg
Add to diet, LRS fish frenzy, mysis shrimp and small plankton. Pellets while accepted can cause constipation and fish looks slightly thin warranting added foods. There is also a chance of intimidation going on which is known as clown hierarchy in which the larger one will corner the smaller often being male, steal all the food, bite it and chase it. Separation is often needed to allow the male to eat and lower stress on it
 
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LoganF713

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I see this is your first post. Welcome to r2r.

I think your clown is fine. How long is recently set up? Would you provide a full tank shot with white light? Stress from shipping and new environment is handled differently by different fish. Hiding places provide security and allow more natural behavior. Your 6 line wrasse may be more aggressive than a shy fish needs.
Tank was cycled for 4.5-5 weeks before we put the clowns in, then took a sample to have our LFS test to confirm all params were looking good before buying and bringing them home. The 6 line actually seems to be really peaceful, but that’s of course when we’re observing. Here’s a photo of the tank in a white-er light (my phone’s camera doesn’t capture it well.) He’s towards the top left, facing downwards
IMG_8150.jpeg
 
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LoganF713

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Welcome to Reef2Reef!

The clown in the video does look lethargic, but that isn't a symptom of any specific diseases.

I want to key in on the feeding issue. You wrote,

"He doesn’t seem to eat very much, a couple days ago when we fed, he would see some pellets float by, seem kinda interested, but then not eat."

Can you clarify this a bit more;

How long have you had this fish?
What species of hawkfish do you have?
Did it eat better in the past, or has this been an issue the whole time you have had the fish?
Are you only feeding every couple of days?
Have you tried foods other than pellets?
Is the other clown eating well?
Of course, and thanks for your reply!
- We’ve had the clowns coming up to 2 weeks.
- Hawkfish is a long nose hawk.
- the clown has always seemed to be less active when feeding, so this seems to be an issue this whole time.
- We used to feed VERY small amounts 1x per day (crushed up some 1mm pellets)
- We tried some frozen brine shrimp and everyone in the tank seemed to love it. We’ve only fed that once as more of a treat.
- The other clown does eat well. I can watch her actively eat during feeding
 
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LoganF713

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Add to diet, LRS fish frenzy, mysis shrimp and small plankton. Pellets while accepted can cause constipation and fish looks slightly thin warranting added foods. There is also a chance of intimidation going on which is known as clown hierarchy in which the larger one will corner the smaller often being male, steal all the food, bite it and chase it. Separation is often needed to allow the male to eat and lower stress on it
 
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LoganF713

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We did some reading and it could be the hierarchy establishing. Would it be beneficial to transfer him to a QT tank for a few days to get him to eat a bit more?
 

vetteguy53081

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We did some reading and it could be the hierarchy establishing. Would it be beneficial to transfer him to a QT tank for a few days to get him to eat a bit more?
Separation is often key but no guarantee behavior may not resume. Pull the aggressor
 

Jay Hemdal

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I would skip the frozen brine, fish like it but it is low in nutrition. Chopped up frozen mysids are a good food. Pellets are great but they need to be sized right for the fish and some fish require training to accept them.

I would feed small amounts twice a day. If the fish are eating all the food, give them a bit more.
 
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LoganF713

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UPDATE: We checked on the clowns this morning, and the more lethargic one was out and about towards the middle of the water column. We checked on him again a bit later, and noticed that his left eye appeared to be bulging, and had a red mark on his cheek. Likely trauma? Pictures for reference.

We have since pulled him from the tank, and placed him in QT (just so that he is safer for now) while we determine who the possible aggressor is. We have a feeling it may be the Starry Blenny.

2 questions:
- What’s the best course of action to treat this? MB? Epsom Salt Bath? API MelaFix?
- Are Starry’s particularly aggressive? What would be the best way to remove him from the tank? Obviously they like to hide and are sneaky.
IMG_8158.jpeg
 

Jay Hemdal

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UPDATE: We checked on the clowns this morning, and the more lethargic one was out and about towards the middle of the water column. We checked on him again a bit later, and noticed that his left eye appeared to be bulging, and had a red mark on his cheek. Likely trauma? Pictures for reference.

We have since pulled him from the tank, and placed him in QT (just so that he is safer for now) while we determine who the possible aggressor is. We have a feeling it may be the Starry Blenny.

2 questions:
- What’s the best course of action to treat this? MB? Epsom Salt Bath? API MelaFix?
- Are Starry’s particularly aggressive? What would be the best way to remove him from the tank? Obviously they like to hide and are sneaky.
IMG_8158.jpeg

That does look like tankmate aggression.

Epsom salts is only for FW fish, seawater already contains a lot of that salt. Melafix is just a tonic, not really helpful, but it doesn't really hurt.

For the eye issue, you could dose Maracyn 1 (erythromycin) in a hospital tank, but watch for high ammonia unless the tank has a good biofilter.
 

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“,,Are Starry’s particularly aggressive? What would be the best way to remove him from the tank? Obviously they like to hide and are sneaky.“

I have not seen aggression with blennies unless you were algae or sponge.

To catch fish in 75G with much rock, I drain all but 2” of water into a Rubbermaid tub, catch fish to be removed, then use utility pump and transfer water back into tank.
 
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LoganF713

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Another update: Unfortunately our clown passed this evening likely succumbing to the trauma he faced. After additional observation of the tank, we’re not so sure the starry blenny was the aggressor. Everyone in the tank seems to mind their own business.

Anyway, our other clown may be a bit stressed as alone. She is quickly pacing back and forth across the tank. Is there anything to be concerned about with her at this point?
 

Jay Hemdal

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Another update: Unfortunately our clown passed this evening likely succumbing to the trauma he faced. After additional observation of the tank, we’re not so sure the starry blenny was the aggressor. Everyone in the tank seems to mind their own business.

Anyway, our other clown may be a bit stressed as alone. She is quickly pacing back and forth across the tank. Is there anything to be concerned about with her at this point?

Clowns are fine if kept by themselves. Pairing clowns from randomly selected fish can be very tricky - if you go that route you'll want to ensure that you have the ability to separate them if they start to fight.
 

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