Help me beat these dinos

[Rawsreef]

This is an established reef over 2 years running. I noticed my Talbot damsel would kick up sand whenever he was hungry. Every time he stirred up the sand bed I would notice a brown patch would appear. This went on for a while, but never got really bad. I decided to evict the damsel. To get the damsel out I had to remove the rockwork which ended up stirring a lot of sand. Since then, the dinos have taken control.

I'm assuming it's dinos. I know it's not cyano because I already tried a chemiclean treatment and no effect.

I would like to avoid a blackout due to the tank being filled with some of my favorite corals and would hate to stress them out further.

Po4- .224
No3- 6.7

What do you guys think would be the best approach?

E- attached some photos, and I'm skipping scraping the glass at the moment to give other algae a chance to compete

 

[Tahoe61]

Get yourself a Hygger drop in UV. Manually remove what you can everyday. Rinse filtration once it settles daily. Avoid water changes temporarily. The Hygger has a timer. You don't need to run it 24/7. I typically only run it at night.

 

[Rawsreef]

Get yourself a Hygger drop in UV. Manually remove what you can everyday. Rinse filtration once it settles daily. Avoid water changes temporarily. The Hygger has a timer. You don't need to run it 24/7. I typically only run it at night.

I forgot to mention but I took the UV off my 25g lagoon and put it in this tank a week ago. Has not helped so far. I think it's a 9W, i use it on my 25g lagoon, should be more than enough for this 10g.

 

[Uncle99]

2 years old in maturity and trace balanced amounts of nitrates and phosphate is not usually associated with Dino’s assuming parameters have remained stable.

UV will not rid Dino’s but goes along way with reducing there numbers for those which enter the water column at night.

How do you know your experiencing dinos?

 

[Tahoe61]

I forgot to mention but I took the UV off my 25g lagoon and put it in this tank a week ago. Has not helped so far. I think it's a 9W, i use it on my 25g lagoon, should be more than enough for this 10g.

I can't remember how many watts mine is but it's on a 25 gallon lagoon. Infrequently I will see an eruption of Dino.
Reduction in water changes and UV has always helped. All public aquariums use UV.

 

[Subsea]

PLEASE LIST PARAMETERS.

2 years old in maturity and trace balanced amounts of nitrates and phosphate is not usually associated with Dino’s assuming parameters have remained stable.

UV will not rid Dino’s but goes along way with reducing there numbers for those which enter the water column at night.

How do you know your experiencing dinos?

@Rawsreef
I am with Uncle, “How do you know it’s Dinoflagellates”.

Could be diatoms. Please list parameters.

 

[Subsea]

This is an established reef over 2 years running. I noticed my Talbot damsel would kick up sand whenever he was hungry. Every time he stirred up the sand bed I would notice a brown patch would appear. This went on for a while, but never got really bad. I decided to evict the damsel. To get the damsel out I had to remove the rockwork which ended up stirring a lot of sand. Since then, the dinos have taken control.

I'm assuming it's dinos. I know it's not cyano because I already tried a chemiclean treatment and no effect.

I would like to avoid a blackout due to the tank being filled with some of my favorite corals and would hate to stress them out further.

Po4- .224
No3- 6.7

What do you guys think would be the best approach?

E- attached some photos, and I'm skipping scraping the glass at the moment to give other algae a chance to compete

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/beating-dinoflagellates-a-complete-guide.1129648/

This thread should outline everything you need to beat dinoflagellets.

Dose silicates to encourage diatoms to outcompete Dino’s

 

[Reef Jedi]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/beating-dinoflagellates-a-complete-guide.1129648/

This thread should outline everything you need to beat dinoflagellets.

Dose silicates to encourage diatoms to outcompete Dino’s

Great recommendation, best advice that was written for dinos.

 

[Idech]

It looks like Dino’s, unfortunately. 3 years with dinos so I have no advice for you except try to get rid of it as soon as possible (it takes time).

 

[CHSUB]

Po4- .224
No3- 6.7

The low nutrient myth causing dinos should give you some direction on a course of action…you released 2 years of filth and the algae is fueled by this. Simply clean it up with great and vigorously maintenance including all the basic stuff: WC, turkey basting, manually removal, etc…it really is very simple.

 

[mmorrison55]

Add a bunch of Dino eating Cyclopods and phyto. Put pods in after lights out and when pumps are off or running on low speed so they have a chance to embed in the sand bed.


https://www.algaebarn.com/blog/phyt...IYN4uLpR53h6QNqvQp-pNllZ3UTSk-uYaAuVqEALw_wcB
FYI… The pods they recommended were apocalypse pods.

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is an established reef over 2 years running. I noticed my Talbot damsel would kick up sand whenever he was hungry. Every time he stirred up the sand bed I would notice a brown patch would appear. This went on for a while, but never got really bad. I decided to evict the damsel. To get the damsel out I had to remove the rockwork which ended up stirring a lot of sand. Since then, the dinos have taken control.

I'm assuming it's dinos. I know it's not cyano because I already tried a chemiclean treatment and no effect.

I would like to avoid a blackout due to the tank being filled with some of my favorite corals and would hate to stress them out further.

Po4- .224
No3- 6.7

What do you guys think would be the best approach?

E- attached some photos, and I'm skipping scraping the glass at the moment to give other algae a chance to compete

This is a toss up if dino or what I suspect Cyano which too can trap gases and produce bubbles as seen in pics. A micrscope is the best way to identify and with readings, if accurate would be indicative of cyano. If true, some some causes for dino which may apply to your setup are:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber allow dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to the collection cup, where it settles as skim-mate. When a protein skimmer is ineffective or absent or cant keep up with the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger this outbreak .
- Using Aminos can actually feed cyano.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your tank with nutrients is often causes cyano
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will be a breeding ground for this red slime .
- If you don’t change your water regularly, you’ll soon have this red substance as regular water changes dissolve nutrients which support cyano
- Using water high in nitrates or phosphates are a base for cyano. . . . . Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow is often a chief cause of cyano as slow moving water combined with excessive dissolved nutrients creates red slime algae

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[trandk]

This is an established reef over 2 years running. I noticed my Talbot damsel would kick up sand whenever he was hungry. Every time he stirred up the sand bed I would notice a brown patch would appear. This went on for a while, but never got really bad. I decided to evict the damsel. To get the damsel out I had to remove the rockwork which ended up stirring a lot of sand. Since then, the dinos have taken control.

I'm assuming it's dinos. I know it's not cyano because I already tried a chemiclean treatment and no effect.

I would like to avoid a blackout due to the tank being filled with some of my favorite corals and would hate to stress them out further.

Po4- .224
No3- 6.7

What do you guys think would be the best approach?

E- attached some photos, and I'm skipping scraping the glass at the moment to give other algae a chance to compete

Turbo sails
Hermit crabs
Lawnmower blenny
PODS PODS PODS

Turn off lights 48 hrs

 

[tripdad]

A stick of dynamite works well.....just kidding. Hang in there, it can really get frustrating.

 

[Rawsreef]

2 years old in maturity and trace balanced amounts of nitrates and phosphate is not usually associated with Dino’s assuming parameters have remained stable.

UV will not rid Dino’s but goes along way with reducing there numbers for those which enter the water column at night.

How do you know your experiencing dinos?

I assume it's either dinos , or diatoms. Leaning on dinos based on my experience with both.

 

[Rawsreef]

I forgot to mention but I took the UV off my 25g lagoon and put it in this tank a week ago. Has not helped so far. I think it's a 9W, i use it on my 25g lagoon, should be more than enough for this 10g.

I can't remember how many watts mine is but it's on a 25 gallon lagoon. Infrequently I will see an eruption of Dino.
Reduction in water changes and UV has always helped. All public aquariums use UV.

I haven't done a WC in a few weeks. The last time I encountered dinos in another tank (which was slightly different, more snotty) . I got passed it by raising N & P, no WC for a few weeks, black out, and dosing micro bacter. I went HAM because I didn't have much coral I cared for in that tank.

 

[Rawsreef]

PLEASE LIST PARAMETERS.

2 years old in maturity and trace balanced amounts of nitrates and phosphate is not usually associated with Dino’s assuming parameters have remained stable.

UV will not rid Dino’s but goes along way with reducing there numbers for those which enter the water column at night.

How do you know your experiencing dinos?

@Rawsreef
I am with Uncle, “How do you know it’s Dinoflagellates”.

Could be diatoms. Please list parameters.

N&P is listed, I'm not sure what other parameters are relevant but the only other thing I test is alk, which sits at 8.5.

 

[Rawsreef]

Add a bunch of Dino eating Cyclopods and phyto. Put pods in after lights out and when pumps are off or running on low speed so they have a chance to embed in the sand bed.


https://www.algaebarn.com/blog/phyt...IYN4uLpR53h6QNqvQp-pNllZ3UTSk-uYaAuVqEALw_wcB
FYI… The pods they recommended were apocalypse pods.

This reminds me, I did dose a fair amount of pods. I dosed half a 16 oz bottle of mixed pods and dosed phyto for about 2 weeks from reefbysteele. Not much help for this issue.

Also another reason why I'm leaning on dinos.

 

[painter1982]

I overcame dinos with ozone when nothing else worked. I bought a $50 unit from Amazon. Was gone in less than a week. I tried lots of other thing first. Uv and bacteria didn’t help whatsoever.

 

[tripdad]

The only thing I will add is that a UV only kills what passes thru it, period. To have it help you must stir the sand, rocks, tank to get the dinos into the water column so they can be carried into the UV unit.