Help mounting UV Sterilizer (Properly)

[Dj City]

Happy Father's Day...
This is going to be a long and detailed post but please help me if you can.

I have 180gal display with a Dinos problem.
I have used my UV to help and it has helped but to set it up properly is real ugly. The UV was temporarily installed.
I also used Dr. Tim's dinos regiment and I believe that helped as well.
I think I'm still dealing with dinos but it's much slower than it was before.
I will do the Dr. Tim's regiment again later this week or next week.

The UV really seemed to help too so I would like to have it employed after the Dr. Tim's regiment.

What I would like to do is figure out a way to permanently install the UV sterilizer.
This is a challenge because I want it closed loop in the display. I can't have a giant pump in my display! I don't want PVC pipes visible in the display. I don't want a powerful suction that fish can get caught in and I don't want a powerful water stream in the tank that will upset the sand.

Anyone have any ideas?

This is how the UV was set up...
It's not pretty but it's effective.

Pentair aquatics smart 40UV
Jeabo DCP15000 pump
1019gph through UV verified with Apex flow meter.

There are two major tips to installing your UV Sterilizer correctly so that it can perform the function you got it for.

Today Ryan identifies how to properly install the UV Sterilizer correctly to make sure it does it's job!



I am open to ideas and suggestions.
Please help.

 

[t5Nitro]

Following. Looking to at some point change from my in tank green machine to a pentair or aqua pro.

 

[Dom]

I set up a UV in a closed loop within my sump.

I placed it across the back of the sump with a pump in the return chamber (the last chamber) pumping water through the UV and back into the first chamber.

It doesn't have to be in the tank at all.

 

[Saltees]

Just sharing my coming setup.

My tank is the RSR 500P, about 500L water volume for both DT and sump. I am going with DELTEC UV 80W rated at 3600L/H for green water and accordingly to divide by 2.4x (1500L/H) for protozoa. Which is my target of 3x turnover for whole system.

I’ll will be plumbing the UV vertically as per Ryan’s BRS video after my return pump, COR20 (rated for 7500L/H) via 1” hose. There will be a 1” flow sensor after the UV to ensure the flow to be 1500L/H through the UV and return to DT. Above flow throttle made precise with APEX.

Hope it helps.

 

[Dj City]

I set up a UV in a closed loop within my sump.

I placed it across the back of the sump with a pump in the return chamber (the last chamber) pumping water through the UV and back into the first chamber.

It doesn't have to be in the tank at all.

My experience was not favorable seeing it up in the sump in the past.
The BRS video confirmed what I had experienced.

For UV to work properly, it needs to be installed properly. (At least for me and my system)

 

[Dj City]

Just sharing my coming setup.

My tank is the RSR 500P, about 500L water volume for both DT and sump. I am going with DELTEC UV 80W rated at 3600L/H for green water and accordingly to divide by 2.4x (1500L/H) for protozoa. Which is my target of 3x turnover for whole system.

I’ll will be plumbing the UV vertically as per Ryan’s BRS video after my return pump, COR20 (rated for 7500L/H) via 1” hose. There will be a 1” flow sensor after the UV to ensure the flow to be 1500L/H through the UV and return to DT. Above flow throttle made precise with APEX.

Hope it helps.

I thought of doing just that but I would not be able to get the flow I need through the UV. I have the Clarisea SK-5000 filter roller and the high flow needed for the UV through the return would cause problems with overpowering the filter roller and toilet bowl flushing in my overflow.

 

[Dj City]

Man...
That was a run on sentence!

 

[Saltees]

I thought of doing just that but I would not be able to get the flow I need through the UV. I have the Clarisea SK-5000 filter roller and the high flow needed for the UV through the return would cause problems with overpowering the filter roller and toilet bowl flushing in my overflow.

True, given your UV and pump are fixed...

I’ll be on the Clarisea SK5000 too. There’s a bypass to allow more flow through.

 

[AZMSGT]

Mine is mounted vertical on the side of my tank. It feeds from the return section of my sump to the tank. Maintenance is easy and no air bubbles inside it.

 

[Dj City]

True, given your UV and pump is fixed...

I’ll be on the Clarisea SK5000 too. There’s a bypass to allow more flow through.

The bypass is not enough. Even if I could get the Clarisea to work, the overflow just won't accommodate.

 

[dwest]

I have a180 gallon tank and have a 57 watt aqua uv plumbed from DT back to DT. I feed it with a maxi jet 1200 which you can see in the upper left corner. So relative to having dinos, the powerhead is not very obtrusive. The UV hangs off the back just above the powerhead. My setup is for dino protection as well so the powerhead gives me about 1-2 tank volumes per hour through it. That’s much slower than the UV manufacturers will recommend, but best for dino eradication IME.

 

[Saltees]

The bypass is not enough. Even if I could get the Clarisea to work, the overflow just won't accommodate.

Looks like close loop being the only recourse.

 

[JCTReefer]

I have a180 gallon tank and have a 57 watt aqua uv plumbed from DT back to DT. I feed it with a maxi jet 1200 which you can see in the upper left corner. So relative to having dinos, the powerhead is not very obtrusive. The UV hangs off the back just above the powerhead. My setup is for dino protection as well so the powerhead gives me about 1-2 tank volumes per hour through it. That’s much slower than the UV manufacturers will recommend, but best for dino eradication IME.

I was thinking of doing something similar to what you’ve done, but using a Sicce 1.5 instead. It’s not terribly big a 4x2x3. I’ll be using the same UV as you. I’m just hoping this uv will suffice for a 210. It’s not quite there Watts per gallon wise, per everything I’ve read, but the manufacturer states it’s adequate for this size tank. It’s either this or drill the back of the new tank. I’ll be building a steel stand for this new tank with a removable shelf on the backside of the tank for the UV to sit on. I’ll weld in two pieces of one inch square tubing vertically for the shelf to slide into. That’s the vision anyways! I went from small and large cell Amphidinium to Ostreopsis. Now back to small cell. So frustrating.

 

[dwest]

I was thinking of doing something similar to what you’ve done, but using a Sicce 1.5 instead. It’s not terribly big a 4x2x3. I’ll be using the same UV as you. I’m just hoping this uv will suffice for a 210. It’s not quite there Watts per gallon wise, per everything I’ve read, but the manufacturer states it’s adequate for this size tank. It’s either this or drill the back of the new tank. I’ll be building a steel stand for this new tank with a removable shelf on the backside of the tank for the UV to sit on. I’ll weld in two pieces of one inch square tubing vertically for the shelf to slide into. That’s the vision anyways! I went from small and large cell Amphidinium to Ostreopsis. Now back to small cell. So frustrating.

Frustrating is quite an understatement! I dealt with mostly small cell amphidinium. I hate to tell you this, but my biggest success with eradicating my dinos was after I removed my sand. I didn’t want to go there, and I still don’t like being bb, but it’s better than dinos. Good luck and let us know how the sicce works out.

 

[JCTReefer]

Frustrating is quite an understatement! I dealt with mostly small cell amphidinium. I hate to tell you this, but my biggest success with eradicating my dinos was after I removed my sand. I didn’t want to go there, and I still don’t like being bb, but it’s better than dinos. Good luck and let us know how the sicce works out.

I agree completely!
Oh yes, I read through many of your post in the dino threads!! I’ve read until I’m blue in the face and cross eyed. The main dino thread took a while to get through. But it was a lot of rinse and repeat within that thread. I may very well pull the sand bed. When you’ve tried everything mentioned and still no success, what does one do?
I so love the look of sand, but am contemplating going bare bottom with the new tank. It’s a shame live rock isn’t available anymore. Well, besides Florida aquacultured. I don’t recall ever dealing with dinos close to 20 years ago when starting this hobby. I’m thinking the availability of live rock from various places around the world had a lot to do with that. Biodiversity is key I believe! Ah, the good ole days!

 

[Dom]

My experience was not favorable seeing it up in the sump in the past.
The BRS video confirmed what I had experienced.

For UV to work properly, it needs to be installed properly. (At least for me and my system)

Aren't Dino spores free floating in the water column? If so, why would it matter where the UV is installed?

 

[Beardo]

I have my UV plumbed into my return. UV is 114 watts on a 270g tank. This was effectibe for me with dinos.
I had tried the sump setup, taking a suction on one end of the sump and discharging to the other end, I didn't have much luck, though that unit was smaller.

 

[Sharkman89]

That exactly how I was thinking of mounting mine, what sterilizer are you running and what Pump do you have feeding it?

Mine is mounted vertical on the side of my tank. It feeds from the return section of my sump to the tank. Maintenance is easy and no air bubbles inside it.

 

[Dj City]

Well,

I broke down and permanently installed the UV in a way I did NOT want to but pretty much had to. My durso simply can't handle the high flow required to be able to use my return pump. I use a jeabo DCP 15000 for my return pump. It can easily handle the flow required for the UV but my durso can't handle 1017gph without getting overwhelmed and "flushing" like a toilet. I can only run about 740gph through the return.

I have another jeabo DCP 15000 pump in the drain section of my sump. It feeds the UV which is mounted horizontally on the floor of my stand. The inlet and outlet are pointed up so I get no trapped air.
I have the UV dumping the water into the return section of the sump.
I have a 1 inch Apex flow meter installed on the output pipe.
I am getting 1016gph through the UV.
This is not the way I wanted to run my UV but it's the only way I can run it without having the pump and plumbing in the display like my earlier pic.

This should still be effective because I have the correct flow through the UV but not as effective as pulling water straight from the display in a closed loop.

 

[Saltees]

Well,

I broke down and permanently installed the UV in a way I did NOT want to but pretty much had to. My durso simply can't handle the high flow required to be able to use my return pump. I use a jeabo DCP 15000 for my return pump. It can easily handle the flow required for the UV but my durso can't handle 1017gph without getting overwhelmed and "flushing" like a toilet. I can only run about 740gph through the return.

I have another jeabo DCP 15000 pump in the drain section of my sump. It feeds the UV which is mounted horizontally on the floor of my stand. The inlet and outlet are pointed up so I get no trapped air.
I have the UV dumping the water into the return section of the sump.
I have a 1 inch Apex flow meter installed on the output pipe.
I am getting 1016gph through the UV.
This is not the way I wanted to run my UV but it's the only way I can run it without having the pump and plumbing in the display like my earlier pic.

This should still be effective because I have the correct flow through the UV but not as effective as pulling water straight from the display in a closed loop.

That should do it! Cheers!