Help needed designing a 5 ft. Custom Peninsula dream tank

[Sordfish]

Hi everyone,

I am in the process of consolidating my tanks into a larger one to save some space. The new tank will go into our family room in the basement. Being an old house (1920s), space is tight. And the stairs to the basement are only 25" wide, with a tiny landing. After looking around, custom seemed to be best suited for our needs. And my wife just gave me the go ahead - woot woot ;Joyful. I am super excited.

I’ll be going with Miracles, which is an hour away from me so if anything goes wrong they’d be easy to reach out to for warranty. So far they have been super responsive.

The dimensions of the tank are going to be 60x20x20. It is going to have a eurobrace. It’ll be pushed against a corner, so it will have starphire on two sides - the front and the left. The right and the back are not going to be visible. The right side is going to have an exterior ghost overflow made by Miracles - it’ll essentially have a peninsula form factor, but visible from only the left and the front. I chose the peninsula form since it’ll allow me to push the back of the tank right against the wall, while still using an external overflow.

I have never had a tank this large. Nor have I had a peninsula or euro brace before. So I need your advice on what else I should ask for. First of all, how should the return be set up? Is a 1-inch return towards the back of the right side sufficient? Or should I do two 3/4-inch returns, one on each side of the overflow? I was also thinking of drilling 1" holes on the eurobrace, at the back corners, to allow easy access for wave maker wires. I am finally going to include a 1" bulkhead close to the bottom of the right side. I’ll connect the bulkhead to my floor drain in the laundry room. That way I can use a ball valve to drain the tank for water changes, etc.

Anything else I am missing? Any tips you may have would be very welcome. This is my dream tank that I’ll be keeping until we move - so at least for 10 years. I want to make sure it is done right. What would you include in your dream tank?

 

[Gablami]

I have a similar setup. A corner tank setup as a peninsula with two viewable sides. Feel free to check out my thread for more info. My tank is a little bit larger, but is setup as a “dream tank”, no expense spared.

I have two 1” returns drilled. I’m so glad I did, but for your size tank, I think 3/4” would be ok. I would have two returns, not one. Gives you redundancy and the ability to turnover more water.

In terms of ball valve on the display to do water change. I considered that for awhile. I did a ball valve on my sump, acting as an overflow instead. But that’s just personal preference.

Congrats! It’s a very exciting time.

 

[Sordfish]

Thanks. I’ll check out your build thread. I was thinking 2 returns as well, and you confirmed it. I guess no reason not to have 1” bulk heads for the returns - I can always use reducers with the pipes if needed. Do you use 1 return pump or 2 for redundancy?

 

[Gablami]

I have dual return pumps, one to each return bulkhead.

 

[Big E]

If you can, make it 24 -30"wide tank...........the wider the better. You're going to run into problems with 20" width tank if you want pleasant views from both sides, especially if it's dominant Sps. Aquascaping narrow tanks isn't easy.

Since the tank is 20" tall the steps shouldn't be an issue.

I know 10 years is a long time but narrow tanks are hard to sell if you decide to sell at a later date.

 

[JoshH]

If you can, make it 24 -30"wide tank...........the wider the better. You're going to run into problems with 20" width tank if you want pleasant views from both sides, especially if it's dominant Sps. Aquascaping narrow tanks isn't easy.

To add to this, a 20" wide Eurobraced tank is going to have a rather narrow opening at the top for access. I'm not sure how narrow the Euro will be but I doubt Derek would do less than 3" which means your access to the tank will be at most 14" wide. If you are dead set on 20" wide I'd say pay the extra money and go rimless. And I don't say that lightly as I'm really not a fan of rimless tanks.

IF you can spring for the extra width this is my Miracles 60" x 30" peninsula while it was cycling...

As @Big E mentioned above, the wider the better for more aquascaping options, especially for long term. However, there are quite a few examples around here of great minimalistic aquascapes done in narrow long aquariums that do have a fantastic look to them as well.

For your bulkheads, I would make sure your main drain bulkhead is drilled for a schedule 80 bulkhead. After dealing with schedule 40 bulkheads on my closed loop, I'd never recommend them for anything other than overflows or returns that are easier to access for maintenance purposes.

I didn't run dual returns on my tank as being a true peninsula I wanted more room to add powerheads in the future as it's the only wall I can do it on. Given yours will be pushed up against a wall for the life of the tank I'd definitely suggest running dual 1" returns and as you mentioned, reduce them down if need be.

As for holes in the Eurobracing, great idea but I probably wouldn't go more than 3/4" myself, maybe even smaller if you can. The wider the hole. The wider the Eurobracing needs to be to keep itself from breaking when drilling.

As far as overflow options, personally if you're an hour away and Derek let's you, I'd make the drive and have a look in person at all there overflow options. I went with the Miracles external overflow myself and wasn't a huge fan of the look when I recieved the tank. Not that it look terrible or anything, but just not the look for me. If I were to order it again I'd make them waterjet the overflow into the back panel. Or I'd have them cut a piece of acrylic that covers the entire back wall of the tank like Innovative Marine does with there's.

 

[Sordfish]

If you can, make it 24 -30"wide tank...........the wider the better. You're going to run into problems with 20" width tank if you want pleasant views from both sides, especially if it's dominant Sps. Aquascaping narrow tanks isn't easy.

Since the tank is 20" tall the steps shouldn't be an issue.

I know 10 years is a long time but narrow tanks are hard to sell if you decide to sell at a later date.

Thanks for the tip, and fully agreed. Unfortunately, 20" is as close to max that the space would allow - the tank intrudes into the entrance for the family room. My wife actually wanted 18. In fact the reason I went custom is that I couldn’t go 24. Otherwise I would have gone with a Red Sea or a Waterbox, making it more affordable. I’ll see if I can push it to 22" - I’ll need to mark the space and see whether that works.

 

[Sordfish]

To add to this, a 20" wide Eurobraced tank is going to have a rather narrow opening at the top for access. I'm not sure how narrow the Euro will be but I doubt Derek would do less than 3" which means your access to the tank will be at most 14" wide. If you are dead set on 20" wide I'd say pay the extra money and go rimless. And I don't say that lightly as I'm really not a fan of rimless tanks.

IF you can spring for the extra width this is my Miracles 60" x 30" peninsula while it was cycling...

As @Big E mentioned above, the wider the better for more aquascaping options, especially for long term. However, there are quite a few examples around here of great minimalistic aquascapes done in narrow long aquariums that do have a fantastic look to them as well.

For your bulkheads, I would make sure your main drain bulkhead is drilled for a schedule 80 bulkhead. After dealing with schedule 40 bulkheads on my closed loop, I'd never recommend them for anything other than overflows or returns that are easier to access for maintenance purposes.

I didn't run dual returns on my tank as being a true peninsula I wanted more room to add powerheads in the future as it's the only wall I can do it on. Given yours will be pushed up against a wall for the life of the tank I'd definitely suggest running dual 1" returns and as you mentioned, reduce them down if need be.

As for holes in the Eurobracing, great idea but I probably wouldn't go more than 3/4" myself, maybe even smaller if you can. The wider the hole. The wider the Eurobracing needs to be to keep itself from breaking when drilling.

As far as overflow options, personally if you're an hour away and Derek let's you, I'd make the drive and have a look in person at all there overflow options. I went with the Miracles external overflow myself and wasn't a huge fan of the look when I recieved the tank. Not that it look terrible or anything, but just not the look for me. If I were to order it again I'd make them waterjet the overflow into the back panel. Or I'd have them cut a piece of acrylic that covers the entire back wall of the tank like Innovative Marine does with there's.

Thanks for you input Josh. I researched miracles extensively before settling on them, and your comments on other posts and your build thread were very helpful in deciding.

I had not considered the opening size issue with a eurobrace. I’ll get a quote for both a rimless and as I mentioned to @Big E above, I’ll also see if I can extend it to 22”. If either is doable I’ll go that route, with 22” being the preferred option.

I had never thought of the effect of hole size on the eurobrace. Very good point. I can probably reduce those holes to 1/2”. Most powerheads come with removable chords, so I won’t have to pass a plug through those holes, the reason for my initial 1” choice.

I’ll admit that seeing your tank was the reason I was considering a single return. But based on your and @Gablami response, I am definitely going to go with 2 returns.

What issues did you have with schedule 40 bulkheads? I never had to do my own plumbing- my Red Sea had it all done for me. So I am not at all live to issues at this front.

Finally, below are the pictures Derek sent me as an example overflow. I did not realize there were multiple options. Is this what yours looks like?

 

[JoshH]

I had never thought of the effect of hole size on the eurobrace. Very good point. I can probably reduce those holes to 1/2”. Most powerheads come with removable chords, so I won’t have to pass a plug through those holes, the reason for my initial 1” choice.

I was thinking the same thing which is why I suggested a max of 3/4" so you could fit multiple power cords through if needed. Or maybe do multiple 1/2" holes placed strategically so you can maximize powerhead placement.

I’ll admit that seeing your tank was the reason I was considering a single return. But based on your and @Gablami response, I am definitely going to go with 2 returns.

I went single return for a very specific reason, otherwise I would have gone dual returns as well. I wanted an MP40 to mirror the placement of the return line on the other side for maximum flow down the long main viewing pane. If I went dual returns I wouldn't be able to put an MP40 on that side close to the corner because the plumbing would be in the way. If I had have gone for a wider tank I would have gone dual returns as well.

What issues did you have with schedule 40 bulkheads? I never had to do my own plumbing- my Red Sea had it all done for me. So I am not at all live to issues at this front.

I went with threaded schedule 40 bulkheads because I wanted to be able to remove the bulkheads without destroying the plumbing below if needed. Basically they "can" be a little tricky to install and get just right for no leaks. I had a few on my closed loop leak on me after first install, then again after moving the tank up to the wall.

Schedule 80 bulkheads offer a larger hole which means you can use a slip to slip bulkhead (No threads) and a male end of a schedule 40 union will slide through the bulkhead hole. This isn't possible with a schedule 40 bulkhead because the male side of the union is larger than the hole the bulkhead goes through.

You can use schedule 40 slip/slip bulkheads and have much less issues if none atall. But to repair or fix them you need to cut plumbing. Even threaded ones you might get it right on the first install and you're good. My overflow ones are threaded and they were golden on the first try

However if I were to do it all over again, any hole that's below the return lines or is difficult to install or get to in the future for maintenance or replacement will be a schedule 80 bulkhead.

There are a few more reasons it's just hard to type them all lol

Finally, below are the pictures Derek sent me as an example overflow. I did not realize there were multiple options. Is this what yours looks like?

Not what mine looks like. Mine has an acrylic plate that JUST covers the overflow box portion and that's it. That looks MUCH better. This is mine....

All in all like I said it isn't terrible, however I would prefer a solid look.

 

[Sordfish]

Regarding the overflow, I’ll specify that they install the one shown in the picture sent to me - I agree that it looked just fine.

Schedule 80 bulkheads offer a larger hole which means you can use a slip to slip bulkhead (No threads) and a male end of a schedule 40 union will slide through the bulkhead hole. This isn't possible with a schedule 40 bulkhead because the male side of the union is larger than the hole the bulkhead goes through.

Thanks for this. I’ll go with schedule 80. So in order to install schedule 80 bulkheads, does the hole size to be drilled into the glass have to change? Or can the same hole accommodate either schedule? Did you actually specify the hole sizes or was it sufficient to say: a hole for a 1" schedule 80 bulkhead.

By the way, how specific were you with your requirements with Derek? Did you have to specify the precise location of each return bulkhead or was it sufficient to say "I want two return bulkheads on each side of the overflow box?"

 

[Sordfish]

I have dual return pumps, one to each return bulkhead.

I checked out your thread. Awesome. You are certainly someone who pays attention to detail. Thanks for taking the time to provide all that detail.

 

[Camaro Show Corals]

Along with the width id also really try for 6 feet, odd length tanks are also hard to sell and light since most led lights are 24x24 for sps. Also most larger tangs people would want would like a 6 foot tank. You also want a pretty tall stand since the tank is short and trust me nothing is worse then having a tank you don't look eye level at.

 

[Jon Fishman]

I did an 8’ with a single return for simplicity sake, and run a large return pump for turnover

 

[Bacon505]

I run 2x 2” drain and 1” return on my setup without overflow box. Save alot of space without the overflow box and have the flexibility to adjust water height

 

[JoshH]

Thanks for this. I’ll go with schedule 80. So in order to install schedule 80 bulkheads, does the hole size to be drilled into the glass have to change? Or can the same hole accommodate either schedule? Did you actually specify the hole sizes or was it sufficient to say: a hole for a 1" schedule 80 bulkhead.

The two different sizes require different hole sizes and I would be as specific as possible on what bulkheads you want where. They are not interchangeable atall either so you can't put sch 40 bulkheads into a hole drilled for a sch 80 bulkhead. Tank builders seem to be particularly bad at getting bulkhead hole sizing right no matter what builder you go with.

By the way, how specific were you with your requirements with Derek? Did you have to specify the precise location of each return bulkhead or was it sufficient to say "I want two return bulkheads on each side of the overflow box?"

I gave specific drawings for the placement of every hole that was to be drilled in the Aquarium. Personally I would not leave it up to them to make the decisions for you. Be as specific about your build with Derek as you possibly can so you can feel better about the tank turning out exactly the way you want it to. Also if something is amiss you have specs to fall back on

 

[Sordfish]

Along with the width id also really try for 6 feet, odd length tanks are also hard to sell and light since most led lights are 24x24 for sps. Also most larger tangs people would want would like a 6 foot tank. You also want a pretty tall stand since the tank is short and trust me nothing is worse then having a tank you don't look eye level at.

I wish I had the space. It’d mean I’d be barricaded in the family room since it’d completely block the entrance. But maybe that’s not a bad thing - the family can slide some food over the top of the tank for me.

 

[Sordfish]

I run 2x 2” drain and 1” return on my setup without overflow box. Save alot of space without the overflow box and have the flexibility to adjust water height

Wow, those are some big pipes. You must have an awesome return pump - I wish I could afford one.

 

[Sordfish]

The two different sizes require different hole sizes and I would be as specific as possible on what bulkheads you want where. They are not interchangeable atall either so you can't put sch 40 bulkheads into a hole drilled for a sch 80 bulkhead. Tank builders seem to be particularly bad at getting bulkhead hole sizing right no matter what builder you go with.



I gave specific drawings for the placement of every hole that was to be drilled in the Aquarium. Personally I would not leave it up to them to make the decisions for you. Be as specific about your build with Derek as you possibly can so you can feel better about the tank turning out exactly the way you want it to. Also if something is amiss you have specs to fall back on

Ok, thanks for the advice. I’ll definitely get as detailed as I can.

 

[Bacon505]

Wow, those are some big pipes. You must have an awesome return pump - I wish I could afford one.

Not that big of a return pump but i have alot of powerhead for the turn over

 

[Sordfish]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Change in plans. I saw a 3 month old Red Sea Peninsula 500 advertised on line for $1500US so I bought it yesterday. It is 4” deeper than what I wanted but a foot shorter so we’ll make it work. Also the price was unbeatable. I just moved it to the basement this morning - had to hire movers given my super narrow stairs. The cabinet is still upstairs - it wouldn’t fit. I have to disassemble it to get it down in pieces. Now it is deep cleaning time. It reeks.