My first saltwater tank ever

Sordfish

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As I mentioned in my introductory post, I am in the process of setting up my first saltwater tank which will be a 25 gallon nano with a 14 gallon cube sump. I have been slowly collecting the parts on sale or used since November. I almost have everything I need so I am now starting to put everything together. Below are some pictures (assuming I manage to upload them properly)
6b394438-dcda-41fe-bdb9-be0664f241ee-jpeg.1175675


The tank is an aqua fire 25 gallon starfire rimless with a matching stand which is a knockoff of ADA stands. I got the combo at a nice discount. The rock is liferock brand dry rock that I was able to get on sale for half price - they have not been scaped yet and I don’t think I’ll be using all. The tank is for freshwater so I added an eshopps nano hob overflow box. The decorations are there since initially I plan to go Fowler and my daughter is super excited about decorating it. The light is a current USA marine loop with the matching mounting arm. The arm allows attaching a second light when I am ready for corals

C84D535E-345B-4850-969F-57F1B98A8E50.jpeg

The cabinet has a eshopps nano cube sump I got used for a great deal from a very nice local guy. I also have an acrylic reservoir in there. I plan to set up automatic water changes just because I like engineering challenges.

C93EE497-6FF0-45CA-9E56-78368FCA4089.jpeg


I’ll go over each item in more detail over the next few weeks as I set them up.

Your comments are always welcome and appreciated.

6B394438-DCDA-41FE-BDB9-BE0664F241EE.jpeg
 
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W1ngz

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That's a nice little tank!

You may find though, that the Current USA lights are underpowered. They're great for the visual aspect, but even with a second one, you won't have the required light for anything more than the most basic low light corals.

For a tank that size I think and AI Prime HD would be just the thing.
 
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Thanks. I was worried about that and that’s why I only bought one. I figured while I am doing Fowler and learning the new water chemistry, low lights may even be beneficial - less fuel for algae. When time comes for upgrading the lights, if indeed the current USA doesn’t cut it, I’ll replace it with an AI prime or something similar. The reason I didn’t go with a better light from the start is that I got the lights as a bundle sale with an eflux pump and a USA current DC return pump. Based on the combo sale, I practically got the lights for free - so I figured I’ll give them a try. The nice thing is that all of the pumps and the lights are controlled through the loop controller and I have never had a controller before. Of course, I have no experience with current USA so it is a risk but I did read lots of good reviews for the pumps. Here is hoping for the best.
 

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Coming from freshwater too, I can vouch for the Current USA stuff - for freshwater tanks and plants. I loved the slim look of the Satellites that I had over my 20 long.

They've never quite figured out reef tanks though.
 
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Cool thanks for sharing. Update us with pics when it goes wet. What fish are going in first?
Really don't know yet. I do want clownfish, but I understand they are territorial so I'll probably leave them till the last - at least in freshwater I found that more aggressive fish tend to be less problematic if all other inhabitants have settled in first. I was thinking of a pair of pyjama cardinals to start with and maybe a goby or a firefish and finally a pair of clowns. I suspect at that point I'd be maxed out in a nano like this. If anyone has suggestions, I'd welcome it
 
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Coming from freshwater too, I can vouch for the Current USA stuff - for freshwater tanks and plants. I loved the slim look of the Satellites that I had over my 20 long.

They've never quite figured out reef tanks though.
That's too bad to hear. I didn't have any prior experience with them but I had heard good things in the freshwater world. I guess I should keep my eyes out for a good used AI prime or Kessil.
 
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Today I set up my RODI system. It is an RO Buddie 50G per day system. I bought the 4 stage with the resin.

IMG_0701.JPG


I also bought a Cataliytic carbon stage and added it between the carbon and the membrane. The reason for this is that Toronto uses chloramine instead of chlorine. Regular carbon won't remove chloramines.
IMG_0702.jpg


Finally, I added a glycerine filled pressure gauge to measure the intake pressure. I have a gate valve at the source that I plan to use to control the pressure.

IMG_0704.jpg


Now I am off to Home Depot to purchase a 20 gallon brut container to test everything. This is the first time I am using an RODI system, so I welcome any tips you may have to make life easier, etc.
 

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Suggestion: Now that you have the pressure gauge and have an idea what your inlet pressure is, if you put the gauge between the last carbon filter, before the membrane you'll have an indicator when the prefilters start to become clogged. With new filters, the pressure should be pretty close to the inlet pressure. The pressure will begin to drop as the sediment filter becomes clogged. The effectiveness of an RO membrane decreases below about 50psi.

A dual in-line TDS meter will let you know the TDS coming out of your membrane, and out of the DI resin. When the TDS out of the membrane starts to rise it's time to change it. When the TDS out of the resin is no longer 0, you know it's time to replace the DI resin.
 

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Thanks. I was worried about that and that’s why I only bought one. I figured while I am doing Fowler and learning the new water chemistry, low lights may even be beneficial - less fuel for algae. When time comes for upgrading the lights, if indeed the current USA doesn’t cut it, I’ll replace it with an AI prime or something similar. The reason I didn’t go with a better light from the start is that I got the lights as a bundle sale with an eflux pump and a USA current DC return pump. Based on the combo sale, I practically got the lights for free - so I figured I’ll give them a try. The nice thing is that all of the pumps and the lights are controlled through the loop controller and I have never had a controller before. Of course, I have no experience with current USA so it is a risk but I did read lots of good reviews for the pumps. Here is hoping for the best.
Welcome. Looking great already!!
I am a noob too and I started with the loop current USA setup as well. My personal experience with these lights was great. I can tell you all my LPS and all softies were looking great and growing. My tank is 18 deep so I think these lights are good enough for that. It was only when I tried a few SPS at the top of the tank that I had to switch to better lights. They will work great for you as a fowlr and for most beginner corals.
 
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Suggestion: Now that you have the pressure gauge and have an idea what your inlet pressure is, if you put the gauge between the last carbon filter, before the membrane you'll have an indicator when the prefilters start to become clogged. With new filters, the pressure should be pretty close to the inlet pressure. The pressure will begin to drop as the sediment filter becomes clogged. The effectiveness of an RO membrane decreases below about 50psi.

A dual in-line TDS meter will let you know the TDS coming out of your membrane, and out of the DI resin. When the TDS out of the membrane starts to rise it's time to change it. When the TDS out of the resin is no longer 0, you know it's time to replace the DI resin.
Thanks for the great tips. So does this mean I should permanently move the pressure gauge right before the membrane inlet? Now that I think about it, that makes sense - it is the membrane pressure that makes sense. Any recommendations re dual TDS meter? Are they all pretty much the same or are there brands that are more reliable?
 
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Welcome. Looking great already!!
I am a noob too and I started with the loop current USA setup as well. My personal experience with these lights was great. I can tell you all my LPS and all softies were looking great and growing. My tank is 18 deep so I think these lights are good enough for that. It was only when I tried a few SPS at the top of the tank that I had to switch to better lights. They will work great for you as a fowlr and for most beginner corals.
My tank is 15" deep, so similar to yours. Were you using two current USA light bars the whole time? Or did you use 1 like me at any point for your corals?
 

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Welcome! If you’ve been patiently waiting since November piecing this together you are going to be successful. Patience is the hardest part of this hobby!

Gratz on having what most cannot comprehend!
 
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Welcome! If you’ve been patiently waiting since November piecing this together you are going to be successful. Patience is the hardest part of this hobby!

Gratz on having what most cannot comprehend!
Thanks. I have learned from my mistakes with my freshwater tanks. Pretty much every time I dove in head first, I ended up regretting it. Saltwater seems to have a lot more complications, so I am taking it extra slow. I feel that keeping a thriving piece of a lake in a glass box is difficult, but keeping a tiny piece of the ocean seems that much more challenging.
 

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Thanks for the great tips. So does this mean I should permanently move the pressure gauge right before the membrane inlet? Now that I think about it, that makes sense - it is the membrane pressure that makes sense. Any recommendations re dual TDS meter? Are they all pretty much the same or are there brands that are more reliable?

I've only ever seen one used. It's called a DM-1 dual TDS meter. If you check any of the online sites on either side of the border that's what you'll find.
 

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