Help :( Overflow on custom tank mounted too high

[dopey]

I appreciate all the comments and suggestions in this thread.

I've taken the overflow off. The weir part of this one, you cannot remove the bulkhead from it. You can see dabs of epoxy on the inside of the internal box. I'd need to get generic bulkheads and attach the external box directly. I see no way to adjust either side in anyway.

I do agree I do not have the exterior box correctly plumbed. Maybe it was a mistake, but the intent was to just test for leaks/actually see the return pump/flow combo working. It is my first tank with a sump and I was excited to see all the parts in motion.

I had no intentions of leaving the exterior box plumbed this way -- like only running while we watched for leaks type test. The water level was alarmingly high which lead to this thread looking for help. Which I greatly appreciate the responses.

One reason it's not plumbed correctly is lack of fittings to do it. The local 'home depot' type stores here do not sell anything nearly this small. The local saltwater shop was out of a few connectors I needed and will be getting them in. They only had 25mm with adapters down to 20mm, I didn't think it fit in the box (aside from the bulkhead sticking out too far), so I am waiting for these connectors.

I hadn't installed any sort of valve as speaking to people I got conflicting advice. That adjusting on the pump was adequate, and just wasn't worth the hassle to also have the valve. In this case, the overflow is rated for 800gph so it seems I will need to restrict the flow to achieve a turnover I want to achieve while creating a functioning/silent overflow.

I tried to address the lack of plumbing being completed in both the sump and overflow box in my initial post, apologies if that wasn't clear.

What has confused me, is the focus on the exterior box and implications I do not understand how overflows work. I sincerely do not see how the plumbing of the exterior box has any impact on the water level challenge in the display tank I am facing -- I do understand how in a properly plumbed overflow it would. If solving the plumbing in the exterior box would solve that i'd be ecstatic... but I don't see how the physics would work.

The Weir(internal) box is a completely enclosed piece of acrylic with slots on the top on both sides. It has a fixed threaded bulkhead through it into the exterior box. These slots are higher than primary/secondary drains would ever be in the external box.

I feel this thread shifted focus on plumbing the exterior box, and without being combative, I fail to see how that can influence the water level if the slots stay this high.

 

[dopey]

And I am an idiot. The white is just pvc and the bulk head slipped off.

 

[Ridgeway]

As mentioned to sort this out correctly you need to re-drill the holes lower down and then you can set up the weir box correctly, anything else is a bodge that you may regret later on.

 

[zalick]

You are correct that the external box will not influence the water level of the tank. it would only do so if the flow through the external box was not adequate to match the flow of your return pump and then the whole thing would overflow.

hopefully what I'm about to say makes sense. In your videos you see the water coming out of the bulkhead. The level of that water is the lowest you will be able to get the water in your tank.

this thread is going two different directions at the same time. Because it's important you have the concept of the external flow set up a correctly or else you will be at great risk of having an overflow incident.

 

[zalick]

And I am an idiot. The white is just pvc and the bulk head slipped off.

I believe you can get another we're box that is wider but has the same bulkhead hole pattern. This would allow the same flow over a greater area and reduce the water. It would also provide for better surface skimming.

Filing down each of the slots 3cm will also work. You have plenty of height above The bulkhead holes to still allow for surface skimming if you file down the slots. At least that's what it appears from your videos. the purpose of the internal slotted weir box is to provide surface skimming and keep critters out.

 

[GodZillaReef]

Just install a bulkhead with a 90. That will act as an overflow. The way the inside and outside box is attached will effect different things. outside has to do with flow and 3 drains, but mostly noise in my book. I just do an inside box now with 2 drains. The outside box to me just causes more noise. The inside effect height of water in tank. Of course the placement of the hole can a limiting factor. You can modify the weir to change the height in tank. I can always added spacers or a different fitting to a 90 and change the depth of tank.
Question: In running operation where do you want the water level from the top?

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

My god people...

Take it to a place with a CNC machine, bring $20, a 6 pack of beer, and be cool and they can machine those slots longer in like 10 minutes.

 

[dopey]

So an update!

Appreciate all the tips... and concern about a proper bean animal overflow setup.

I've reached out to modular marine and they are more than happy to send a new internal box, and price felt very reasonable. Hopefully that will be on it's way soon.

Meanwhile i've added a valve -- Yes it's a ball valve, I know these not ideal. I can't emphasis enough the difficulty in sourcing parts here . I also try to support the local SW store as much as possible. This is the only valve type they have, and it's surprisingly difficult to get these size plumbing items here in Sweden. I've used them to order these tanks and trying to order all equipment for this new build. Feel it's important to support the local store.

I've ordered additional uni-seals from the UK -- Pretty funny these are also notoriously difficult - http://www.unisealshop.com/page.cfm?page=26 . The guy emailed me about shipping and I commented my need, turns out this whole business started due to lack of availability for their own personal need first

Meanwhile i've applied teflon tape around the 'loose' uni-seal after some googling and leak testing it now.

I've cut down the bulkheads to allow more room in the box for the pipes.

I have not added the U union on the primary/secondary overflow pipes. I will visit the SW store either tomorrow or saturday for these.

With all this done, here is a video of it running:


I'm actually surprised that it's quite quiet, or maybe the water splashing in the sump is covering up the overflow noise.

If folks are curious i'm happy to put the internal weir on, but I am 99.99% the water line will be as high as it was yesterday

My next steps will be to continue finishing the plumbing(The primary pipes aren't just going to freely hang over the sump ) and begin the cycle process. I can leave the internal wier box off during the cycle. By time the replacement/custom box arrives, I should be ready to transfer from my current 37L tank

I'll do an update post on my build thread and continue my journey there: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-custom-tank-230l.631917/

Will keep running the tank this evening watching for leaks before powering it off for the night. Not sure about anyone else but first time going to sleep with a sump is anxiety inducing.

Thanks again for everyone who gave advice yesterday.

 

[zalick]

Great news!!

The ball valve will absolutely work. Its just a bit harder to tune just right, but can be done. One thing to make sure you do: When you turn the valve on the ball valve make sure its not putting torque on the pipe and thus torque on the overflow box & glass.

Also, depending on the new weir box, you should be able to adjust your water line from where it is now, to pretty much any spot higher, by adjusting your return pump flow.

 

[dopey]

Great news!!

The ball valve will absolutely work. Its just a bit harder to tune just right, but can be done. One thing to make sure you do: When you turn the valve on the ball valve make sure its not putting torque on the pipe and thus torque on the overflow box & glass.

Also, depending on the new weir box, you should be able to adjust your water line from where it is now, to pretty much any spot higher, by adjusting your return pump flow.

Thanks

And agree on the ball valve trickyness. Trust me I went in looking for the stuff BRS and others recommend from their videos, but the selection just ain't here

Exactly the plan! Asked them to extend the slats to just above the bulkhead openings. This will let some water 'fall' and then can use the secondary pipe for setting water height.

 

[zalick]

Thanks

And agree on the ball valve trickyness. Trust me I went in looking for the stuff BRS and others recommend from their videos, but the selection just ain't here

Exactly the plan! Asked them to extend the slats to just above the bulkhead openings. This will let some water 'fall' and then can use the secondary pipe for setting water height.

Perfect. Is the internal weir also going to be wider than the one you currently have?

Increasing the width as much as possible will help the most. It will also have the benefit of providing the thinnest sliver of water to skim off the top.