Help please!! Ich or black ich!?

Peepers

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So I have never had a qt. (I know) Have never had a problem until.abput a month ago. Got a pearscale butterfly and it gave my tank ich from what I can tell. My foxface got a bunch of white dots. Now it seems all the spots have turned dark. I bought a qt and set it up. Half water from qt, half water from fresh. Am about done dosing to right level of cupramine. But is this not regular ich? Will post pic. Should I add prazi to the copper in qt? Plan on pulling all fish and leaving dt fallow for 76 days. How long do I need to dose copper at .5? How long for prazi, if I dose it?
Please, any help would be appreciated.

16559365269021762843247740676716.jpg 16559365682906560088863762334172.jpg 16559366012514135619407128830483.jpg 16559367554283056538987607493205.jpg
 

Jay Hemdal

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I think in this case, the symptoms are not really clear. Sometimes, ich causes lesions that don't really look like the standard "salt spots", especially when the fish have had an issue for some time. However, flukes can also cause dark spots. I would keep the Cupramine at 0.50 ppm and then also dose with Praziquantel (perhaps Prazipro) at the same time, just to help rule out flukes. Be sure to aerate the tank well and monitor for ammonia. If you can move some established filter media over to the QT to manage the ammonia issues, that would help.

Jay
 
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Thanks. I don't have any good seeded rock I can remove from Dt to put in copper. I do have a seachem ammonia badge. Hanna checker as well.
 

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If you raise your tank to 80.6 degrees you can go fallow for 6 weeks but I would do 45 days for peace of mind. Here comes the old school more experienced reefers comments! Posting link to someone who has way more creditability then me.

 
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So after a few days of bringing up my copper, I'm at .40. But unfortunately out of the couple pkts that came with Hanna checker. Would it still be worth it to put my foxface in there right now. Will be moving all fish over, but foxface has it the worst. Will .4 start to help him at all or keep it from getting worse????
 

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Agree with Jay and immediately thought flukes.
If you raise your tank to 80.6 degrees you can go fallow for 6 weeks but I would do 45 days for peace of mind. Here comes the old school more experienced reefers comments! Posting link to someone who has way more creditability then me.

While you can, it is important that you are in therapuetic level range of 2.25-2.5. There is a treatment cycle of 30 FULL days at levels monitored by a reliable test kit such as Hanna (not Api) at 80 degrees and water quality , mainly ammonia monitored and added aeration (optional) via air stone. Again you can add the fish but once you get the level proper, that begins day one of 30 days (sooner the better)
Comment made about fishless cycle (sallow) for display tank . . . . leave it fishless for 45-60 days - no need to raise tank temp which allow tromonts and parasites to be without a host and go through their life cycle and die off. At day 30, you can do a light surface siphoning to remove any dead cysts within system.
Cupramine needs to be at least 0.50
 
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Agree with Jay and immediately thought flukes.

While you can, it is important that you are in therapuetic level range of 2.25-2.5. There is a treatment cycle of 30 FULL days at levels monitored by a reliable test kit such as Hanna (not Api) at 80 degrees and water quality , mainly ammonia monitored and added aeration (optional) via air stone. Again you can add the fish but once you get the level proper, that begins day one of 30 days (sooner the better)
Comment made about fishless cycle (sallow) for display tank . . . . leave it fishless for 45-60 days - no need to raise tank temp which allow tromonts and parasites to be without a host and go through their life cycle and die off. At day 30, you can do a light surface siphoning to remove any dead cysts within system.
Cupramine needs to be at least 0.50

Agree with Jay and immediately thought flukes.

While you can, it is important that you are in therapuetic level range of 2.25-2.5. There is a treatment cycle of 30 FULL days at levels monitored by a reliable test kit such as Hanna (not Api) at 80 degrees and water quality , mainly ammonia monitored and added aeration (optional) via air stone. Again you can add the fish but once you get the level proper, that begins day one of 30 days (sooner the better)
Comment made about fishless cycle (sallow) for display tank . . . . leave it fishless for 45-60 days - no need to raise tank temp which allow tromonts and parasites to be without a host and go through their life cycle and die off. At day 30, you can do a light surface siphoning to remove any dead cysts within system.
Cupramine needs to be at least 0.50
I thought with cupramine it's only supposed to be .5ppm
 

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vetteguy53081

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I understand but I thought I read you say 2.25 to 2.5?
Thats for coppersafe but realize you using cupramine.
You want to address the parasites first. Prazi reduces both oxygen and appetite and contains Oxybispropanol which acts a stabilizer and up to 5% Praziquantel which doesnt play nice with copper.
 
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Thats for coppersafe but realize you using cupramine.
You want to address the parasites first. Prazi reduces both oxygen and appetite and contains Oxybispropanol which acts a stabilizer and up to 5% Praziquantel which doesnt play nice with copper.
Can you dose prazi in dt? Or is it not reef safe?
 

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Can you dose prazi in dt? Or is it not reef safe?
You can BUT dose at 80% of bottle recommendation. Again, praziquantel reduces oxygen so be sure to add aeration with air stone.
 
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You can BUT dose at 80% of bottle recommendation. Again, praziquantel reduces oxygen so be sure to add aeration with air stone.
So you're saying I should also dump all of my copper water and start over in qt to make sure I do it right. Or is the better option be dose display with prazi first and then transfer to qt with copper? If so, how long should I dose display with prazi???
 

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My skimmer should be good for aeration, correct?
No- not sufficient. It is removing organic waste icreasing contain but you want to break surface air - using pump and airstone ( even a basic from walmart)
 

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