Help to save powder tang from ich!

[winxp_man]

And what is desired dosage? 50 ppm someone wrote higher?

.50 not 50. So get a Hanna checker and make sure to follow instructions in the booklet on how to test properly. .45ppm- .50ppm is what you want your reader to show. If you’re at 50ppm that will kill your fish. The Hanna HR Copper reader will not even read up to 50ppm. It reads .0 -5.0ppm.

 

[winxp_man]

I had him for almost a half year, he is not new :( and he had ich once but it went away after I fed them medicine. Not this time:(

And this specific reason is why the medics here will tell you management is 50/50. I tell people the same. Just because one persons tank makes with with management does not mean the next tank will.

QT every fish that goes into a DT, and run fallow anything else not fish for 60 days before putting into your DT.

As Jay stated, it’s best you keep an eye out for the rest of the fish. I would say just get them all going into QT, and let the DT run for 60 days fallow. Get good flow going in the DT, and if you can increase temps on the higher side. I have personally done 80-82* with my DT in the last break out. Increasing temp 1* in 24 hours. I would say do not go above 82*. This will get the ich left in the tank to be more active and go from the tomont stage to the theront stage that is the active looking for fish stage.

Again with temps keep an eye out on coral and inverts. And flow of water move throughout the tank. You don’t want stagnant water. You don’t want to create a tsunami haha. But a flow to keep water pockets from forming.

This has helped my fallow period be ich free in 60 days.


Remember ich can come in on anything. A single drop of water.

I kept an eye out with a microscope. A pin drop of water had hundreds of ich trophonts. I started watching them at about 7-8pm temp of 76*. By about 2 am it was down to 61-62* they were still moving just slower. I gave up after that. They were dead by 9-10am. BUT!!! Mind you it was a pin drop of water along side a bit of fish mucus. So yes they can come in on a pin drop of water.

I’m not writing this to put the freak of monsters in anyone haha. But education is key in having a disease free reef system to the best of one’s ability. Too much time to deal with everything else in a DT disease in fish is one we can really monitor with QTing. Some say they have not had issues dumping fish in 30-40 years….. then that one fish gets put in the wrecks everything. My brother was telling me about a year ago, man I remember the days when you could buy many fish from almost and LFS and not have issues with disease much. But now it’s insanity what it’s become. One of the LFS’s near I feel makes money off ich! Haha. I would say 99% of all the fish they have in their tanks have ich or some other disease that will kill your fish if you don’t QT. It’s only a matter of time.

Sorry for the long write up. I have been through hell and back because I chose not to QT.

 

[exnisstech]

Keep an eye on the copper level once it reached. When I used cupramine the copper level would gradually go down. I switched to copper power instead and didn't have that issue.

 

[fish_collector]

Thank you for this new information. He is not eating, I’m afraid he wouldn’t be able to survive without food.

It isn't the lack of food that will kill him, it's the lack of oxygen his gills can provide to his bloodstream due to the infection. Most fish can go several weeks without eating when they're sick, as I understand it they begin to utilize their own body fat when nothing is in their belly. Most fish will stop eating with certain meds as well but they usually return to normal when they're done.

 

[iratoha]

And this specific reason is why the medics here will tell you management is 50/50. I tell people the same. Just because one persons tank makes with with management does not mean the next tank will.

QT every fish that goes into a DT, and run fallow anything else not fish for 60 days before putting into your DT.

As Jay stated, it’s best you keep an eye out for the rest of the fish. I would say just get them all going into QT, and let the DT run for 60 days fallow. Get good flow going in the DT, and if you can increase temps on the higher side. I have personally done 80-82* with my DT in the last break out. Increasing temp 1* in 24 hours. I would say do not go above 82*. This will get the ich left in the tank to be more active and go from the tomont stage to the theront stage that is the active looking for fish stage.

Again with temps keep an eye out on coral and inverts. And flow of water move throughout the tank. You don’t want stagnant water. You don’t want to create a tsunami haha. But a flow to keep water pockets from forming.

This has helped my fallow period be ich free in 60 days.


Remember ich can come in on anything. A single drop of water.

I kept an eye out with a microscope. A pin drop of water had hundreds of ich trophonts. I started watching them at about 7-8pm temp of 76*. By about 2 am it was down to 61-62* they were still moving just slower. I gave up after that. They were dead by 9-10am. BUT!!! Mind you it was a pin drop of water along side a bit of fish mucus. So yes they can come in on a pin drop of water.

I’m not writing this to put the freak of monsters in anyone haha. But education is key in having a disease free reef system to the best of one’s ability. Too much time to deal with everything else in a DT disease in fish is one we can really monitor with QTing. Some say they have not had issues dumping fish in 30-40 years….. then that one fish gets put in the wrecks everything. My brother was telling me about a year ago, man I remember the days when you could buy many fish from almost and LFS and not have issues with disease much. But now it’s insanity what it’s become. One of the LFS’s near I feel makes money off ich! Haha. I would say 99% of all the fish they have in their tanks have ich or some other disease that will kill your fish if you don’t QT. It’s only a matter of time.

Sorry for the long write up. I have been through hell and back because I chose not to QT.

Thank you a lot. Unfortunately it died. But I’ll try my best to follow your advice.

 

[Quantum.Reef]

I went through it, and unfortunately only copper can help.

 

[winxp_man]

I went through it, and unfortunately only copper can help.

This is why medics here can’t say enough about the need to QT. Also carful about anything else you put in your tank that is wet from anything but your own tank.

A LFS……. This poor fish was getting infested I just couldn’t get a good shot of her side. She had many spots popping up.

 

[winxp_man]

Thank you a lot. Unfortunately it died. But I’ll try my best to follow your advice.

Keep an eye out on the fish you do have left. And I would not add new fish for at least a year if you want to just wait it out. Ich can starve if if can’t attach to the fish currently in the DT. But it’s a year period to call it good. I’m one for not trusting even that.