help with 72"X24" stand measurements

[leroy_jenkinz]

sorry if it comes off as dumb but i really tried to find the measurements online. so im building a stand for my 180G using rocketengineers template. In his write up, found here, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1169964 , he gives the measurements for i believe 125 or am i just blind and cant read the write up? i was just trying to find the measurement for each colored board in this picture

 

[davocean]

sorry if it comes off as dumb but i really tried to find the measurements online. so im building a stand for my 180G using rocketengineers template. In his write up, found here, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1169964 , he gives the measurements for i believe 125 or am i just blind and cant read the write up? i was just trying to find the measurement for each colored board in this picture

The only difference between a standard 125g and 180g is the front to back measurements.
Both are 6' long, 24 high, 125g is 18" deep and 180g is 24" deep front to back.

It would be the same basic template, 2x4 legs, and I don't recall if top horizontal is listed as 2x6 or 2x8, and that may depend on whether you are going to do a center vertical support or not.

I would say a 2x6 horizontal would be fine w/ a center vertical support, 2x8 would be fine w/out.

The only thing I do different from rockets design is my bottom 2x4's are laid flat side down, rather than on edge as shows in pic.
I like this better.

I also do a flat 2x on top, and 3/4" ply top always, and a ply bottom.

Let me know if this answers your questions.

 

[Ron Reefman]

And consider a plastic liner or a sheet pvc tray in the bottom of the stand if you'll have a sump or refugium down there.

You can see how I did it in my build thread (link in my signature below).

 

[leroy_jenkinz]

The only difference between a standard 125g and 180g is the front to back measurements.
Both are 6' long, 24 high, 125g is 18" deep and 180g is 24" deep front to back.

It would be the same basic template, 2x4 legs, and I don't recall if top horizontal is listed as 2x6 or 2x8, and that may depend on whether you are going to do a center vertical support or not.

I would say a 2x6 horizontal would be fine w/ a center vertical support, 2x8 would be fine w/out.

The only thing I do different from rockets design is my bottom 2x4's are laid flat side down, rather than on edge as shows in pic.
I like this better.

I also do a flat 2x on top, and 3/4" ply top always, and a ply bottom.

Let me know if this answers your questions.

i think ill do the center vertical just out of precaution as its my first stand.

so are you saying your bottom 2x4 ( orange and blue in the pic) are laying flat? any particular reason or just aesthetic reasons to you?

did you forget a number in the " flat 2x on top" ? and yea i planned on putting a ply top, and ply shelf inside

 

[davocean]

I prefer a center brace myself on that span, and it gives something for your doors to land on, no light shines through, and it's solid.
This first pic is how I've been doing for many years now, and my center brace is actually removable w/ the screws on face, just in case.
Of course there are verticals behind each 2x4 that give support directly under the rim joist/top horizontal.



This next pic was when I first started building stands and before I made those corrections, but it shows the top flat 2x4, and this I think really helps flatten out any minor deviations, especially w/ ply top.

I use wood glue and screws always, the ply subtop helps stitch all together and adds a great deal of shear strength, keeps from racking.
This may be overkill on weight load factor, but it makes easier for perfect coplanar top especially for novices and also deals w/ any minor crowns.

I just prefer the flat and also the mirror of top and bottom makes easy to square up perfectly.
I always measure all diagonal measurements as I go to make sure square before hard fastening. I usually pin nail it together before I screw, so I can push it square if my diagonal measurements read needing that, the pins bend, screws secure all exactly where I want it to stay.

 

[leroy_jenkinz]

I prefer a center brace myself on that span, and it gives something for your doors to land on, no light shines through, and it's solid.
This first pic is how I've been doing for many years now, and my center brace is actually removable w/ the screws on face, just in case.
Of course there are verticals behind each 2x4 that give support directly under the rim joist/top horizontal.



This next pic was when I first started building stands and before I made those corrections, but it shows the top flat 2x4, and this I think really helps flatten out any minor deviations, especially w/ ply top.

I use wood glue and screws always, the ply subtop helps stitch all together and adds a great deal of shear strength, keeps from racking.
This may be overkill on weight load factor, but it makes easier for perfect coplanar top especially for novices and also deals w/ any minor crowns.

I just prefer the flat and also the mirror of top and bottom makes easy to square up perfectly.
I always measure all diagonal measurements as I go to make sure square before hard fastening. I usually pin nail it together before I screw, so I can push it square if my diagonal measurements read needing that, the pins bend, screws secure all exactly where I want it to stay.

thanks for the reply and pictures! ill be attemtping this next week hopefully. just have to track down a friend willing to lend me a saw lol

 

[Ryan115]

This is the stand I build a few years ago for my 180g.
I loved having the center completely open with no verticals.

I made a free-standing, 3 sided wrap that slid in and out to finish it off, but still allow full access

 

[leroy_jenkinz]

This is the stand I build a few years ago for my 180g.
I loved having the center completely open with no verticals.

I made a free-standing, 3 sided wrap that slid in and out to finish it off, but still allow full access

Man that’s real nice and perfect for copying. Did you have to do the diagonal braces or just did them for peace of mind? Are those 2x2 for a “lip” on the bottom? Also plywood for floor? Ok I’m done the interrogation now

 

[davocean]

This is the stand I build a few years ago for my 180g.
I loved having the center completely open with no verticals.

I made a free-standing, 3 sided wrap that slid in and out to finish it off, but still allow full access

Nicely done, and that is what I do as well, 3 sided freestanding, slides on and off, nice for full access, and you'd never know it was not attached once on.

 

[leroy_jenkinz]

Nicely done, and that is what I do as well, 3 sided freestanding, slides on and off, nice for full access, and you'd never know it was not attached once on.

Like your canopy and doors. I’m not going with a canopy but if I was I would definitely do something similar.

 

[Ryan115]

Man that’s real nice and perfect for copying. Did you have to do the diagonal braces or just did them for peace of mind? Are those 2x2 for a “lip” on the bottom? Also plywood for floor? Ok I’m done the interrogation now

I did the hip joints for my peace of mind, to prevent any racking.
Yes plywood on bottom and 1x2s around the edges. Completely sealed into a "pan" to catch any leaks.

Nicely done, and that is what I do as well, 3 sided freestanding, slides on and off, nice for full access, and you'd never know it was not attached once on.

Beautiful stand and canopy. Very similar to what I did, minus the glass.
I like it, but I do not trust my children that much.

 

[davocean]

I did the hip joints for my peace of mind, to prevent any racking.
Yes plywood on bottom and 1x2s around the edges. Completely sealed into a "pan" to catch any leaks.


Beautiful stand and canopy. Very similar to what I did, minus the glass.
I like it, but I do not trust my children that much.

Yeah I get it, I do kid friendly too!
And thank you!