Help with my Murder Mystery

TankYouVeryMuch

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I started up my 20G IM AIO tank a little shy of two months ago. Things have been going well and I was building out my clean up crew to keep things in check as they came. I had just recently added a serpent star, an urchin, and a conch. Other tank inhabitants include two paired juvenile clownfish, a tailspot blenny, a couple ceriths, a couple astrea, and a single blue leg hermit. I also had a large colony of seven different zoa species with interspersed clove polyps, a GSP, and a small piece of montipora. Hopefully “had” is the wrong word, but time will tell.

Here’s the TLDR: Almost all of my inverts and maybe my corals have died, and I’m not sure why but there are a few culprits.

The tank is using filter floss (cleaned daily), a MiniQ skimmer, and a refugium filled with healthy macroalgae in reverse light schedule. There are a small number of copepods visible in the tank. The water is usually a touch cloudy, but unsure why.

Part of the difficulty in tracking down exactly what happened is complicated because a number of things happened in a short period. Hence the detail. Sorry it’s long.

Day 1: A snail keeps burying in the sand. I’ll keep an eye on it. Experimenting with a wavemaker which stirs up some crud, but it’s too strong for my tank so I ultimately remove it. Some clumps of algae are taking hold that appear to be briopsis. Add a serpent starfish.

Day 2: I add the urchin and conch to help CUC. I see the snail is still buried and hasn’t moved. Urchin immediately travels to top of waterline along with a snail. Test everything I can and it all looks good (I’ll go through it once, but it remains basically unchanged throughout):
Alkalinity 8.1
Temp 78-79
Nitrate: Undetectable
Nitrite: Undetectable
Ammonia: Undetectable
Salinity: 1.026

Day 3: Urchin is cruising the rocks. Conch is siphoning sand. Cerith is still buried. I note this morning the clownfish are moving a little slower and not eating as eagerly. They’re not listless, just not zipping as auickly. Related to cloudiness in the water? Decide to add finer filter material. Fish are breathing normally.

I’ve been dealing with a small number of micro bubbles getting into the display and haven’t been able to track down the cause yet. It started before I added the MiniQ. I had replaced tubing, but with no improvement. So I decided I needed to remove the pump, put a small amount of silicone grease on the fittings above the waterline, and use zip ties to ensure a tight connection on the right angle corners.

When I removed the pump I also removed some filter material I had placed beneath it to dampen noise. I thought the material was polyester batting, but now worry maybe it was cotton batting. It stirs up a little crud, but not a lot.

I also change out the carbon bag for some new carbon. I rinse the carbon out in some tank wastewater, then under the tap until it runs clear, then rinse well in and under RO water. Placing it in the tank triggers the ATO and dumps a spurt of water in.

I add a roughly 2” square of new polyester batting (confirmed) to the inlet tray, with a layer of floss on top. Removing the tray also triggers the ATO (I’ve gotta remember to unplug it, it’s so sensitive on a tank this small).

I look in the tank and notice all of the corals have started closing up in a way I’ve never seen before. Hmm. I take a break for a little while to think about what it could be. I worry that maybe I didn’t do a good enough job rinsing the tap water out of the carbon. I remove the carbon and it triggers a third dump off the ATO, which I then unplug. I add 1/4 capful of Prime just in case it was chlorine. I also remove the polyester batting square just to be sure.

Right after the ATO dumps the corals close up even tighter. I realize that this water is the first time I’ve gotten RO water from Natural Grocers in-store dispenser. The unit was serviced within the last 30 days and made no claims about remineralizing. I had topped off with a cup of it in my 5 gallon Opae Ula tank the day before with no visible effect. Could it be the RO? I worry maybe there’s copper, as I can’t think of anything else that might cause such a dramatic reaction. But the multitude of life in the opae tank, including baby snails, are all fine.

I leave the ATO unplugged and go to bed. At this point the water in the display is a bit messy from sediment having been stirred up. I turn the lights down so as not to stress the corals more.

Day 4: The new starfish is in the corner of the tank, dead. All of the corals are closed and a few zoas are swollen like water balloons. Water is still visibly cloudy but I see some copepods swimming around, surprisingly. Salinity tests at 1.025, everything else is unchanged. Fish are fine, conch is doing his thing, but the urchin and Ceriths are not moving. Lights are kept on low.

I take the water to the LFS as soon as it opens (noon). Ammonia and nitrate test fine, but the RO shows a TDS of 17-20. I get two five gallon tubs of saltwater to do water changes. Arrive home and do the first 5 gallon water change (half the water in the tank) and remove a couple of the rocks to do some treatment with H202 for the briopsis at the same time. Rinse with peroxide and then rinse off in old tank wastewater (not the latest stuff).

I’m careful not to mess with the sandbed. Put everything back as best I can. I add a 2” square of Poly filter to the tray to try and remove any potential contaminants and maybe get a clue what it was.

Snails are now dying. In an attempt to remove one of the astrea snails using tweezers it gets buried in the sand. I am unable to find it searching a small area, and stir up a bunch of sediment in the meantime. I decide to quit messing with it. Throw an extra HOB filter on with some floss to help with the sediment and go to bed.

Day 5: (today). Urchin is dead. Conch isn’t moving. Fish are OK. Water is still cloudy. GSP has opened a tiny amount, but the zoas and cloves are all still closed. The hermit is now on the zoa colony, which makes me wonder if some have died and he’s scavenging them. Not sure how long it should take but the poly filter is still white, no sign of contaminants.

So that’s where I’m at. I’m planning to do another water change today, but now I’m scared to put any inverts into the tank again.

Possible culprits:
- A bacterial bloom, maybe worsened from kicking up sediment.
- The RO water contained something toxic—but why no apparent effect in the much smaller tank?
- The (possibly) cotton batting was rotting and removing it dumped stuff into the water. But considering it was literally supporting the return pump, shouldn’t that have been in the water already?
- Full moon.
- ?
 
How often are you doing water changes? Corals and invert death is often tied to water quality.

A 2 month old tank is very new for so much clean up crew, is there enough algae to feed them?

Is the water properly oxygenated? Do you have good surface agitation? Can we see a tank pic?
 
I have good surface agitation (one nozzle is always rippling up the surface just enough to not introduce bubbles).

I did about a 25-30% water change on Jun 8 with LFS premix.

I’ll try and get pictures soon. Gotta change the light settings.

I was adding the CUC slowly over time as I saw things increasing (like algae or surface sediment).
 
Sorry to hear of so much loss, and your efforts seem very keen on steps to minimize losses, and keep things under control. My suggestion would be to intensify the bio filtration. Keep your pod population up, use phytoplankton. Smaller water changes. Maybe 2 10% over a week period. Get any material that you suspect could foul or contaminate your water out of there. Definitely find your own RODI water system, and use it for cleaning everything that goes in contact with your water. Slow and steady with additions, patience and perseverance. Learn your system to a Science level, like you mentioned turning off ATO during maintenance and things alike. Strive for no variances, minimize anything that could trigger stress to inhabitants. My 2 cents, but what you’ve been doing sounds like good methodologies.
 
LFS water might be part of the problem. We see threads all the time of tanks struggling for unknown reasons, one of the common denominators I've noticed is LFS water. Who knows how often they maintain their equipment or change filters. It might be fine, but it also might not be.

IMO for a 20 gallon tank, one of the best things you can do for your tank are regular water changes. With water quality that you control yourself. A lot of bad things can build up in water that we can't test for, so we have to be proactive against letting bad things accumulate.
 
I really believe in this product, game changer.
 

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The sediment on the right is because I just scooped out the urchin and conch. The urchin still has a few cilia moving near its mouth so it’s not totally dead yet and I put it back, but it doesn’t right itself. The conch is in a cup until I confirm he’s gone.

Note the algae/diatom/? Growth in the glass on the sides. The white rocks looks especially sterile because they just got peroxided, but they had a thin layer as well, and some tufts of briopsis.
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I really believe in this product, game changer.
I’ve heard very good things about life mud. I’ve also thought about replacing some of my rock with some really good live rock from TBS, but I’ve been trying to spread out expenses a little so I don’t stress so much. 😅
 
Sorry to hear of so much loss, and your efforts seem very keen on steps to minimize losses, and keep things under control. My suggestion would be to intensify the bio filtration. Keep your pod population up, use phytoplankton. Smaller water changes. Maybe 2 10% over a week period. Get any material that you suspect could foul or contaminate your water out of there. Definitely find your own RODI water system, and use it for cleaning everything that goes in contact with your water. Slow and steady with additions, patience and perseverance. Learn your system to a Science level, like you mentioned turning off ATO during maintenance and things alike. Strive for no variances, minimize anything that could trigger stress to inhabitants. My 2 cents, but what you’ve been doing sounds like good methodologies.
I had just received an order of a diversity of pods from Reef by Steele, but due to UPS being lazy I didn’t get them until almost all of them had died. I’m going to get more, but not until I get past the current disaster.

As for phytoplankton, I couldn’t determine if it was going to do anything beneficial to the tank long term other than just add more stuff to be cleaned out of the water column. Until the disaster my corals were all thriving.
 
One thing I’m not sure of: do I leave the Zoa colony in the tank, or remove it? Do they look like they’ll recover or are they just going to rot? I don’t know what dead vs super unhappy coral look like.
 
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LFS water might be part of the problem. We see threads all the time of tanks struggling for unknown reasons, one of the common denominators I've noticed is LFS water. Who knows how often they maintain their equipment or change filters. It might be fine, but it also might not be.

IMO for a 20 gallon tank, one of the best things you can do for your tank are regular water changes. With water quality that you control yourself. A lot of bad things can build up in water that we can't test for, so we have to be proactive against letting bad things accumulate.
Everything seemed to be doing great after the first water change, so I’d be surprised if it’s that (and this LFS is the best in the area with a good reputation and healthy tanks).

I’ve got a lead on a decent system from Facebook marketplace with lots of extra filters (“two years worth”). It’s a six stage, but I’m assuming I can take out or bypass the unneeded stages.
I will have to add a pump, as my water pressure is too poor otherwise.

This hobby is not for the faint of wallet. 🙃
 
My initial suspicion is that the inverts are starving. It's a new tank. There is likely not enough micro-life in the sand yet to sustain a conch. Or a cerith.

Likewise, film algae alone isn't enough to sustain an urchin. It needs other stuff to feed on. And that 'stuff' will depend on the type of urchin. For example, my tuxedo won't touch GHA. Or nori. But it loves and thrives on coralline.

Inverts can also be sensitive to sudden large temperature changes and/or salinity changes...

Have you warmed your water-change water up to the same temp as the tank water? Did you check your tank salinity after the large ATO dumps occurred to see if it had dropped significantly?

As far as the sand bed goes, disturbing won't cause any problems other than cloudy water. Your livestock shouldn't be affected by it all ... other than perhaps having to dust your corals off afterward if there isn't enough flow in the tank to do it 'naturally'.

The type of floss material — cotton vs polyester — shouldn't have had any impact either. It takes 2-3 months for cotton fibers begin to breakdown and rot in water. If it was already beginning to rot, maybe it was something else? If so, that might be a culprit. But...

Given that the tank is...
  • only two months old
  • (looks like it was) started with dry rock
  • is being heavily filtered (you mentioned floss and carbon, and I also see what looks to be a skimmer in the back chamber)
  • Has zero NO3 ... and I'll bet nearly zero PO4
...I'd say your tank is still too young and 'sterile' to support those types of inverts.

Do you have any astrea or trochus snails? They can live off of film algae. If so, how are they doing?

Same with the corals. Temp or salinity swings will irritate them and cause them to close up.

Plus, zero NO3 means there's no 'food/fuel' present for them to absorb from the water. Unless you're heavily spot feeding them, they'll have a difficult time of it. Better to wait until your tank shows some NO3 & PO4 present before adding any more.

My suggestion would be to pull the floss and the carbon for now. And turn off the skimmer. Give the tank a chance to get a little bit 'dirty' ... develop some NO3 (3-10 ppm) and PO4 (0.03 - 0.1) ... and build up its microbiome.

A 'clean', sterile tank is a golden VIP ticket for nasties like cyano and dinos to come marching in ... and will actually increase and lengthen the severity of the 'ugly phase'.
 
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I appreciate that concern, but everything I’ve read indicates that these critters can go for weeks without food before starving to death, not the one to two days the larger ones were in my tank. It also doesn’t explain why all of the corals closed up immediately preceding the rapid deaths of all of those inverts. The ceriths and astrea were all fine eating algae off the glass and rocks immediately preceding the tankpocalypse.

I had sinking wafers on hand to supplement food should things have cut back, so I was definitely thinking about this possibility and trying to be careful.

Edit to add that one of the larger rocks was a healthy liverock. Adding the critters was partly intended to slowly add to the bioload to increase nitrate production. Increasing algae growth was what I believed was keeping nitrates down. I really was being very mindful about it all!

Second edit: I did raise the temperature of the water to the tank level before adding, but didn’t aerate it first. That’s something I’ll start doing.

Could the water cloudiness have been evidence of an ongoing bacterial bloom, and maybe stirring things up was just enough to tip it over the edge and starve oxygen? But would that affect corals so rapidly? My gut is still that the RO water might have been the culprit, especially since the TDS indicates it had something in there I wasn’t expecting. Maybe it was just a confluence of multiple things of my messing around too much in such a small tank. :(
 
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I get doing too many things at once to rectify an issue. Definitely support the response of ditching carbon, using skimmer way less. Phytoplankton will help out the pods, good for corals. IMO a ULNS starting out might keep GHA at bay, but go for the ugly stage, be a sleuth to figure where things are at and what direction you can beginning changing or adding to achieve what your after. I like ICP tests, I do them quarterly.
 
I get doing too many things at once to rectify an issue. Definitely support the response of ditching carbon, using skimmer way less. Phytoplankton will help out the pods, good for corals. IMO a ULNS starting out might keep GHA at bay, but go for the ugly stage, be a sleuth to figure where things are at and what direction you can beginning changing or adding to achieve what your after. I like ICP tests, I do them quarterly.
I appreciate all the support and suggestions from everyone.
 
lots of good info from previous posters.

I do think I agree with the RO water being a likely culprit. Especially considering everything seemed to be doing ok and then having a rapid decline once the RO water was added.

I will point out that drinking water machines are just RO water, not RODI. Because of this I’d recommend investing in an RODI system. 4th of July is coming up so online vendors will probably have sales in the next few weeks if you want to wait and get one on sale.

As for your corals, if you do regular water changes and keep parameters stable they should pull through just fine. GSP is very hardy and could probably not extend for a couple weeks and still recover. I have personally had zoas shrink to the point they lose their polyps and are just blobs on the rock and then still recover and start growing polyps again when placed in good conditions. Your zoas look quite healthy and I’d probably only start to get very concerned if they still don’t open for 5-7 days.
Montipora is typically pretty hardy as far as SPS goes so good chance it’ll recover too.

As for nutrients, I would personally err on too much rather than too little while you dial them in. Zoas and GSP should be just fine and your Monti should do ok too.
From my personal experience, I feel that my tank has more issues if nutrients bottom out than if they are a little higher than I’d like.
 
Any possibility that some of the corals on the rock could have released Palytoxin when they got angry, and that’s what caused all the invert deaths? (I asked about the zoas before and a couple people suggested at least one of the species in the colony was Palythoa.)

This is the best I could do documenting it before the disaster:

I have a lot of chronic health problems that normally cause me issues, so unfortunately if I do have mild paly exposure it’s hard to tell—I’m used to tingling in extremities, joint pain, heart issues, etc. But I got eye irritation the day I put the colony in the tank and eventually was diagnosed as “possible Palytoxin exposure” by an optometrist, but who knows?
 

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