Help with sump baffle sizes?

[kyley]

Hi All,
I'm new to sumps, having run a Red Sea Max 250 since I got into the hobby nearly 10 years ago. I'm starting up a 120 gallon (4x2x2 bottom drilled with overflow in the back center) and have a 40 breeder sump. I had a guy build my sump and he did a crappy job. He used black silicone and it's all over the place. And the first baffle is 5" higher than the 2nd chamber - won't that create a loud waterfall? What should the height difference be (and still be okay for most skimmers)?

I'm going to remove the baffles and redo the silicone in them and possibly move them. I like having a good amount of water in that first chamber, but should I reduce the height of the first chamber? Does everything else check out okay, or should I make more room in the return pump chamber?

Also, should B and D be the same height? He actually has D slightly higher than B, and I imagine if anything that B should be higher?

Oh, I don't know yet what skimmer I'll be using. I have a Jebao DCQ-10000 DC return pump (which will also be feeding an algae scrubber sitting on top of the sump). Thanks,
--Kyle

 

[MaiReef]

I would raise A an inch and a half and put what is now D there. Then replace D with B, but get it cut to 7" and put eggcrate under the C so that macros don't get sucked through. That should work with the supplies you already have. Most bubbles will get trapped in the first section.

 

[Jon Fishman]

following to learn the same!

 

[MaiReef]

Or check out my build thread below and it would show what works great with eggcrate all the way up on the last baffle.

 

[kyley]

I would raise A an inch and a half and put what is now D there. Then replace D with B, but get it cut to 7" and put eggcrate under the C so that macros don't get sucked through. That should work with the supplies you already have. Most bubbles will get trapped in the first section.

I'm really confused on what you're suggesting. Raise A and put D there? That sounds like you mean to swap them... And if I replace D with B, that doesn't make sense as they're the same size...

I guess you are suggesting the last baffle be 7" though - doesn't that leave pretty small amount of room for fluctuation with the ATO (or if the ATO reservoir runs out, not a lot of time before it gets too low for the pump)?

I'd rather not mess with getting the baffles cut, but I figured I would need to. :/
Thanks,
--Kyle

 

[MaiReef]

I run my ATO in a 6" chamber and it works well for me with no issues.

I'm really confused on what you're suggesting. Raise A and put D there? That sounds like you mean to swap them... And if I replace D with B, that doesn't make sense as they're the same size...

I guess you are suggesting the last baffle be 7" though - doesn't that leave pretty small amount of room for fluctuation with the ATO (or if the ATO reservoir runs out, not a lot of time before it gets too low for the pump)?

I'd rather not mess with getting the baffles cut, but I figured I would need to. :/
Thanks,
--Kyle

I run my ATO in a 6" chamber and it works well for me with no issues. ...sorry for the sideways image.

 

[MaiReef]

This is how mine is setup, but with eggcrate and I separated the refugium in the middle to run the flow under from one chamber to the next and mine runs right to left instead. And again definitely eggcrate above the last baffle.

 

[MaiReef]

Duplicate post

 

[kyley]

I run my ATO in a 6" chamber and it works well for me with no issues.

Thanks, your sketch makes more sense. :) The nice thing about that sketch is I don't have to get any glass cut. But the negative is that I'd prefer more water volume in that first chamber. I'll think about it. Either that or I'll just cut the A baffle down to about 10" and leave the rest pretty much as-is (but redo the silicone).

Do you have a picture of how you have the egg crate placed? Not quite sure I follow. Thanks again,
--Kyle

 

[MaiReef]

Thanks, your sketch makes more sense. :) The nice thing about that sketch is I don't have to get any glass cut. But the negative is that I'd prefer more water volume in that first chamber. I'll think about it. Either that or I'll just cut the A baffle down to about 10" and leave the rest pretty much as-is (but redo the silicone).

Do you have a picture of how you have the egg crate placed? Not quite sure I follow. Thanks again,
--Kyle

You do not need to make any chamber smaller if you don't want. Just move everything towards the refugium. Also you can cut the eggcrate to the size of the opening and silicone it in there.

 

[rainmaker]

If it’s set up as u drawing u need to remove d water will come over d to return an cause micro bubbles in tank
Then If d is taller than b replace b with d
Water height in refugium will only be as deep as d height
Don’t see that u will need to buy b back anywhere

 

[MaiReef]

If it’s set up as u drawing u need to remove d water will come over d to return an cause micro bubbles in tank
Then If d is taller than b replace b with d
Water height in refugium will only be as deep as d height
Don’t see that u will need to buy b back anywhere

The water in the last compartment will be at the height of the baffle or slightly lower with an ATO. I have zero microbubbles in my tank.

 

[rainmaker]

The water in the last compartment will be at the height of the baffle or slightly lower with an ATO. I have zero microbubbles in my tank.

True but can have same results without the last baffle with a ATO in last chamber
That’s how I run my sump

 

[MaiReef]

True but can have same results without the last baffle with a ATO in last chamber
That’s how I run my sump

That would also work, but I prefer the other way.

 

[kyley]

True but can have same results without the last baffle with a ATO in last chamber
That’s how I run my sump

Thanks. Seems like either way would work. Although I figured that going over D gives a little more opportunity for skimmer bubbles to dissipate... Thanks,
--Kyle

 

[kyley]

You do not need to make any chamber smaller if you don't want. Just move everything towards the refugium. Also you can cut the eggcrate to the size of the opening and silicone it in there.

So you would do the egg crate vertically under the C baffle to prevent big chunks of macro algae from flowing into the return chamber? I think I understand now. Thanks
--Kyle

 

[ca1ore]

Using eggcrate under the taller bubble trap baffle is fine as long as you can easily access it for cleaning. Otherwise it will eventually clog and potentially cause problems. Better, in my view to put it on top of one of the shorter baffles. Also a few things to keep in mind:

1. Downstream baffles will set the water height for that section
2. Taller baffles means less extra space for drain down water
3. Larger baffle height differential upstream versus downstream may be slightly noisier, but it also encourages better water circulation in that section.

 

[kyley]

Using eggcrate under the taller bubble trap baffle is fine as long as you can easily access it for cleaning. Otherwise it will eventually clog and potentially cause problems. Better, in my view to put it on top of one of the shorter baffles. Also a few things to keep in mind:

1. Downstream baffles will set the water height for that section
2. Taller baffles means less extra space for drain down water
3. Larger baffle height differential upstream versus downstream may be slightly noisier, but it also encourages better water circulation in that section.

All good points, thanks. I just finished setting the baffles and I think I'll use your egg crate idea later. I didn't remove the first baffle and get it cut, so it's still 13" vs 8". Hopefully it isn't too noisy, but if it is, I'll take it out and redo it later. Thanks again for the help,
--Kyle

 

[MaiReef]

All good points, thanks. I just finished setting the baffles and I think I'll use your egg crate idea later. I didn't remove the first baffle and get it cut, so it's still 13" vs 8". Hopefully it isn't too noisy, but if it is, I'll take it out and redo it later. Thanks again for the help,
--Kyle

That won't be because it goes under

 

[Sonor]

One other thing to consider is what the operating water level will be for your skimmer. You might have to build a stand for your skimmer to achieve the optimum water level, ( make sure you have enough clearance in cabinet for maintenance), or lower your baffle A.