Help with Vortech selection

jmwils1

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I have a Red Sea Max e260 which is an AIO with a sump in the rear. The front and side glass are 12mm thick. The tank is only 36" long. I'd like to have the wires outside the tank so I'd prefer the Vortechs. Ideally I'd like one on either end to have tubulence but have mostly LPS and am concerned that 2 MP40s would be too much flow. Speaking with Ecotech the MP10 might not work and might not stay coupled with glass that thick. I currently have 1 MP40 but even when dialed back to 20% (as low as it goes) this is a lot of flow for that tank. Does anyone have experience using MP10s on this tank? Should I give up on the Vortech idea and just go with something else and deal with the wires in the tank?
 

King Turkey

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I have mp 10 on a 36 long at 100 percent that's 1500 gph and another constant return other end at 900 hph no problem hope that helps. All LPS euphilla dominant. Rock work will determine how the flow is needed. Note my tank is not as thick as yours it's a AIO breeder style
 

plasma327

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I two MP 10's and two Nero 5's on a 36(65 gallon)long tank. I have the two Mp 10's running reef crest @ 35 percent and the Nero 5's in anti sync in pulse @ 75 percent simulating waves. Work well.. I have a video. not sure how to attach a vid. My tank has only been running since September.
 

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jmwils1

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Thanks! In this case the issue is that Ecotech states that the maximum glass thickness is 10mm and the glass on my tank is 12mm or 1/2". For that reason they can't guarantee that the 2 sides will attach correctly or function.
 

plasma327

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Mine is 12mm as well. They work and stay in place just fine. Even @ 100 percent they in place and do not move around.
 

SPR1968

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I’ve got 2 MP40’s in my S650 and my first ever tank was the Max E260

To be honest, if the MP40 is at 20% are you sure that’s to much flow for the entire system?

I would have thought 1 MP40, maybe at one end would be perfect say in reef crest at maybe 70-80% flow

Have you checked the ecotech web site as there is a flow calculator
 
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jmwils1

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The problem is that I’m getting polyps only going in the direction of the flow, sand getting pushed in the direction of the flow and some skeletal exposure on the side of the mp40. I was thinking that having one on each end might balance that out.

I did check the flow calculator and it appears 2 mp40s is way too much.

I’d like to try the mp10s but that would be an expensive mistake if they don’t work...

F8914305-4C87-4862-B576-51001F6654AE.png
85939FFE-15DA-492C-BCBC-D4166ECF1FEC.png
 

Octocat

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My tank's 12mm, and I ran two mp10s since I already had them. While it does work, I wouldn't recommend it. If you do, you'll need to secure the dryside to the tank. The stick-on wire holders will work but others use silicone. In my case, getting the wetside to align properly was aways a pain, and they would sometimes misalign for seemly no reason causing a lot of noise. In certain modes and speeds the wetside would just spin. I upgraded to mp40s and sold the mp10s.
 

Antics

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The problem is that I’m getting polyps only going in the direction of the flow, sand getting pushed in the direction of the flow and some skeletal exposure on the side of the mp40. I was thinking that having one on each end might balance that out.

I did check the flow calculator and it appears 2 mp40s is way too much.

I’d like to try the mp10s but that would be an expensive mistake if they don’t work...

F8914305-4C87-4862-B576-51001F6654AE.png
85939FFE-15DA-492C-BCBC-D4166ECF1FEC.png
You can cut down the flow on the MP40s and not have it be overpowering. They will run quieter and cooler on a lower setting anyway. Would also be upgrade proof too.
 

Potatohead

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I have a 32x24x20 tank with four MP10's and if I could change two MP10's for MP40's I would do it in a heartbeat.
 

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