Here is my attempt at plywood stand -- trim question

ps2cho · Oct 23, 2016

I used one sheet of 8' x 4' 3/4" Red Oak plywood from HD for $49, 100 pack of kreg screws for $4 and one 24x24" scrap piece of birch ply from my wood pile for the bottom piece (since its hidden and I wasn't going to go buy another sheet of red oak)

The stand is 24 x 24 x 36 for my Biocube 29 coral quarantine/growout tank that is currently cycling on the floor until this is made, then I'll siphon all the water out, lift it on stand and it'll be ready to go.

This is my first time building a stand using only plywood and no 2x4 frame. I think it was actually a lot easier! Less issues with cuts that are short etc.

I'm useless at trimming having never done that before and having endless unfinished stands -- Do I attach trim using glue, or do I need to go buy a nailer or something? I own a plunge router that I bought a long time ago...is that something that I would even use on this project?

Pics below: still need to sand some rough edges btw

spscubed · Oct 23, 2016

Looks good, strong work mate!
All you really need now is a good glue (I would recommend titebond ll as it is good around water) and some Blue painters tape. A small pin gun would definitely help you to hold it in place however if you cut the trim slightly larger than it needs to be you can we sand it down and it'll look beautiful. Just be careful not to sand the finish off of the oak because it'll probably be a thin veneer on the outside of that ply.
Now when you tape it down make sure you use good long portions of tape stretch it real tight over the piece of wood that your gluing down.
Other than that I just say keep up the good work buddy!

Pepcrylic · Oct 23, 2016

When I build a cabinet/stand out of plywood, I glue a 1/4 strip of hard wood on the cut edge of the plwood before I assemble the stand/cabinet.

mcarroll · Oct 23, 2016

I would not have figured there was enough wood in plywood for pocket screws to work. Though I admit I've never used pocket screws – I just know what they are.

ps2cho · Oct 24, 2016

So as long as I find red oak trim it should match the plywood when I stain right?

Is 1/4 oak ok for the doors?

themcnertney · Oct 24, 2016

Why didn't you build a structure using 2x4's then wrap that with the plywood?

ps2cho · Oct 24, 2016

Why would I need to? This is plenty strong enough for a 30g tank, I save Money not buying the 2x4's Plus I get maximum space on the inside.

revhtree · Oct 24, 2016

Great job!

JBradford · Oct 24, 2016

Great job. I like it. Are you leaving it bare bottom? Only reason I ask is a done just like the top will help with torsional twist if it was to get bumped. I'm sure the oak is plenty strong but just an idea.

ps2cho · Oct 24, 2016

JBradford said:
Great job. I like it. Are you leaving it bare bottom? Only reason I ask is a done just like the top will help with torsional twist if it was to get bumped. I'm sure the oak is plenty strong but just an idea.

I have the bottom as well yes - last photo is just too dark to see it.

cromag27 · Oct 25, 2016

Stand I built for a 250g. 3/4" Baltic birch with pocket screws and glue ONLY.

Phil Cusimano · Oct 25, 2016

Just use Titebond II wood glue and clamps and you'll be just fine! I'd buy the trim at HD or lowes unless you want to make the trim yourself with a router, however, you'd need a fixed based router. Very nice build by the way! Wish more people would build aquarium stand without using 2 X 4's. By the way, I'm in the process of staining my own aquarium stand build 50 X 36 X 38 with trim. I've documented some of the processes along and will soon share it on R2R. Let's say the only difference between our builds is that I used 1 1/2 inch Maple plywood, with poplar trim. My only regret is that I should have used cherry as trim ... live and learn!

jsker · Oct 25, 2016

ps2cho said:
Why would I need to? This is plenty strong enough for a 30g tank, I save Money not buying the 2x4's Plus I get maximum space on the inside.

Your perfectly fine with the structure.

In my current stand I used 8 nails, wood glue, 3/4 stock solid mahogany, fiddleback maple, 3/4 ply in center of cabinet for support and 1 ply for the back. I have been using pocket holing for quite sometime, next time you only need half the amount of holes

Phil Cusimano · Oct 25, 2016

jsker said:
Your perfectly fine with the structure.

In my current stand I used 8 nails, wood glue, 3/4 stock solid mahogany, fiddleback maple, 3/4 ply in center of cabinet for support and 1 ply for the back. I have been using pocket holing for quite sometime, next time you only need half the amount of holes

Amen ... isn't that the truth ... the structure is very sound indeed. I used Maple plywood and poplar trim, hindsight is beautiful. If I had to do it all over again I'd chose cherry as the trim.

I loath using 2 X 4 in aquarium builds, don't know exactly why hobbyist immediately think of going with 2 X 4. Think of purchased aquarium stands, were do you see 2 X 4 in the construction of them? So okay, once you get past a certain volume of water equal large aquariums you should be thinking steel frame over trimmed plywood. Rarely do a large majority of hobbyist have to space to keep very large aquariums, I know I don't the max I could go is 48 X 30 X 24 which is only 150 gal. Just thinking out loud, and perhaps trying to understand why hobbyist use a lot of 2 X 4's in the aquarium stand builds. No offense intent to anyone.

ps2cho · Oct 29, 2016

So I went to my local Lowes instead of HD tonight and I was amazed at the selection of hardwood!! My HD has basically nothing. I picked up a sheet of 1/2" red oak and matching trim to make the doors.

The ONLY thing I cannot seem to find, is a corner trim to cover the 3/4" plywood. What I was thinking is that maybe I can DIY one? I got some 1/4" red oak that was considering cutting at a 45deg angle, then using that to cover up the edges? Possibly using my router on the edges to round them off so its not flat? Would that work? (have yet to use my router so I would practice before I do it...)

I do not own a nail gun, so I plan to head to harbor freight tomorrow and get a nailer that will hook onto my air compressor so that way I can nail it on after gluing to make sure it doesn't move.

Which would be best for a project like this? 18ga? 20ga? 23ga?
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/nailers-staplers.html

jsker · Oct 29, 2016

Purchase a decent gun, do not go cheap with a nailer. 18 gauge is a good all around nailer, and also look for a gun that will shoot .5 to 1.5 brads and adjustable depth. I would look at a hot glue gun, unless you are going to do more cabinet work

ps2cho · Oct 29, 2016

Can you make a recommendation for one? I'm fine spending the money on a decent one I am big on tools and I will definitely use one again - I guess I figured a nailer is a nailer...

How about this Dewalt one?
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWFP1...F8&qid=1477797002&sr=8-4&keywords=brad+nailer

Phil Cusimano · Oct 30, 2016

ps2cho said:
So I went to my local Lowes instead of HD tonight and I was amazed at the selection of hardwood!! My HD has basically nothing. I picked up a sheet of 1/2" red oak and matching trim to make the doors.

The ONLY thing I cannot seem to find, is a corner trim to cover the 3/4" plywood. What I was thinking is that maybe I can DIY one? I got some 1/4" red oak that was considering cutting at a 45deg angle, then using that to cover up the edges? Possibly using my router on the edges to round them off so its not flat? Would that work? (have yet to use my router so I would practice before I do it...)

I do not own a nail gun, so I plan to head to harbor freight tomorrow and get a nailer that will hook onto my air compressor so that way I can nail it on after gluing to make sure it doesn't move.

Which would be best for a project like this? 18ga? 20ga? 23ga?
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/nailers-staplers.html

See and for me, it's the opposite way around, HD carriers a better select of Hardwood the Lowes. HD has maple, cherry, walnut, white oak, red oak and one other which I can't remember at the moment. Yes, you can make your own corner trim, but practice ... practice ... practice on scrap pieces of red oak. 2nd do you have an air compressor? Because the nailer you picked out gets attached to an air compressor. If you don't have an air compressor, I suggest the following nailer.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=porter+cable+brad+nailer&rh=i:aps,k

orter+cable+brad+nailer

Lastly, enjoy it's reward to make your own, and nice job so far. I'm in the process of finishing up the staining and top coat, and will post my aquarium stand build with the next week!

ps2cho · Oct 30, 2016

I have a 30g air compressor and a small 5g one so no problems there

Phil Cusimano · Oct 30, 2016

ps2cho said:
I have a 30g air compressor and a small 5g one so no problems there

Just want to make sure sometimes folks are just not aware ... they don't always read thru the description. As one of my old Biology Professor would say to say to student's your problem isn't biology it's reading. LOL