High TDS when set to auto-top off...why?

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Reeferon

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So I have an auto top off set up with a GAP liquid level controller.

I have always had an auto-top off, bust just recently I got a dual in line TDS meter.
The readings coming out of the RO are 30-40 and it is a brand new set of filters.
When I set it to run continuously, I get 2 TDS readings.

How do I fix this?????
or is this just a problem with all auto top off set ups?



I'm thinking of just filling a large brute can in the garage and having like a 20 gallon reservoir to top off water that I would fill once a week or two
 
what you are thinking is the correct thing to do....the first few gallons is always garbage water it needs to purge and then comes the clean water....btw. buffer that resivior to it helps tremendously...;)
 
You don't want to plumb your RODI strait to your ATO. As stated earlier the 1st few gallons will be high in TDS. You are best off to fill your 20g conatiner and use that water resovouir for your top off needs.
 
That is true. If the ro is not running. When you restart it it takes a few gallons to get it flushed.
 
Reeferon,
That is refered to as RO TDS creep, when first starting up as Troylee said, but if you add a DI resin chamber after the RO it will remove those first high TDS at start up, but contributes to lower life span of the DI resin. Changing your prefilters has nothing to do with TDS= total disolved solids, which only your carbon will help remove some dissolved organics, your sediment filter removes suspendented solids and any that get past that will posibly get picked up by the carbon filters depending on there micron rating. This quote explains it very well.
Quoted from Buckeye Field Supply.
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.
Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.
Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.
The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?
If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.
The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.
After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!




 
You should never hook an autotopoff system directly to an RO or RO/DI system. Always fill a reservoir of some sort and if possible do it in long filter runs rather than short spurts. Float valves are famous for TDS problems since they cause the RO to restart every time the level drops the slightest bit. This is also why drinking water type systems are not good for reefs either, the system restarts every time the pressure or bladder tank pressure level drops.
You want long filter runs which allow the membrane to flush and which dilute the initial TDS creep to a level its not noticable. TDS creep is something you deal with on all systems and there really is no getting around it, its just how you deal with it that varies.

I use float valves and a solenoid myself to fill my 23 gallon topoff container. The switches are set so I have to drop a minimum or 11 gallons before the RO/DI comes back on to replenish the level. TDS creep is not an issue that way.

Another possible issue with hooking directly to a RO/DI is flooding the display with fresh water if and when the float valve sticks or fails which does commonly happen just like a toilet or evaporative cooler float.
 
would an airpump in the reservoir be a good idea?
how about a powerhead?

thanks for the responses
 

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