Hose water?

SCReef'n

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Could using hose water to rinse my water change brute be causing my problem with metals? I rinse out my WC brute after every change because I throw the old filter sock and any excess water into it. Then I dump it in the street and wash the whole thing with hose water and let it dry. Could any residue be the cause of my metal issue. I’m running out of things to tear apart and just thought of this.

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Are you using a food grade can? Maybe do a final rinse with some RO. I’ve heard the ICP test can pretty much pinpoint a possible source. Just my noob opinion, hoping some more experienced reefers chime in.
 

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Well, I would rinse would ro regardless... But it poses a much greater issue if your hose water is not considered potable water.

If it is potable water such a small amount should make no difference.
 

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I don’t think it makes a difference as long as you let it dry completely before using it again. I rinse all my reefing tools in tap water and my buckets/brutes with the hose. I cleaned my tank and sump with hose water also.
 

mike550

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I have heard that some hoses use metal (lead?) or other chemicals to help make the hose more flexible. There are some hoses that say they are drinking water safe or have a liner. Take a look at the Flexzilla Garden Hose -- I will probably buy that one for water changes, and change the fittings to something non-metallic.

But honestly, I doubt that the hose is the problem. Maybe try drying the Brute instead of letting it air dry.
 

dbowman5

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What metal are you seeing? When the water in your pipes, in the pipes leading to your house, or in the hose, sits still there is a small increase in the contaminants in the water. That metal could be Iron, copper, lead, zinc, tin, or something else. Water contamination can come from the ground source. DI water is actually more aggressive toward metal or salts than tap water. The suggestion I have used is to run water for a little bit to clear out the contamination prior to using it for anything sensitive. My question is: are you using the same Brute to put the water into your tank and remove water from your tank? It would not make a difference if you did the hosing out of a waste can that does not see fresh saltwater. When you figure this out, please share your findings with us.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I'd wipe out the apparent residual water rather than let it dry (which does nothing useful unless chlorine concerns you).

Hose fittings are usually brass with a lot of copper, and tap water may have a lot to begin with.
 
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SCReef'n

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So my icp test results that are out of spec are 9.5micro g of Tin, 47 micro g of Al, and 7.8 micro g of Iron ( 0 copper). I have pulled apart every pump. Inspected every magnet and found one tiny rusty screw on a clamp that hangs over the tank (pictured). I’m just trying to rule out anything else. These were used to hold hoses in place and were sometimes submerged. Thanks for your input.

42FCFAC2-F0C9-4F7F-8ED8-55E20AA93163.jpeg
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Unless your corals or inverts are apparently suffering, I would not assume those are problematic levels.

Sources for tin can be PVC or even aquarium glass.
 
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SCReef'n

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I did the test for kicks, the tank has been running for a year and I was interested to see the results. Triton recommended that I just do water changes until I got the levels down. The only thing I’ve actually noticed are a couple pieces Browning out. No bleaching or STN that I can see.
 

vetteguy53081

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The tap water you are using likely contains metals and I would get a free analysis from your water company. Garden hose has and generally contains bacteria and I would use clear utility hose or even a Python unit for filling
 
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SCReef'n

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The tap water you are using likely contains metals and I would get a free analysis from your water company. Garden hose has and generally contains bacteria and I would use clear utility hose or even a Python unit for filling
Just to be clear I’m only using the garden hose to rinse my water change bucket no water from the hose goes to the tank ever
 
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SCReef'n

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So more acropora continue to turn brown and generally look unhappy while others are actively growing. I have had low 1260 magnesium which I have gotten back up to 1380 as of today. Could that be the issue? Also in addition to the water changes could a poly filter hurt? Thoughts
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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So more acropora continue to turn brown and generally look unhappy while others are actively growing. I have had low 1260 magnesium which I have gotten back up to 1380 as of today. Could that be the issue? Also in addition to the water changes could a poly filter hurt? Thoughts

No, that lower magnesium matches where they live naturally, in the ocean. The higher level is also fine.

A polyfilter may be limiting trace metals if you use it 24/7. They used to make them to not do this by preloading them with metals. not sure if they still do that.
 
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SCReef'n

SCReef'n

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Here are my results. Anyone got any ideas I’m happy to try. Are weekly 10% water changes enough or should I do a larger one?
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10B3C43E-1777-4C2F-9A65-7500844825CE.png
 
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