How a noob is cycling tank

[reeferfoxx]

patience is everything and research research research !!!!

This +1^^!!!

 

[HOOPDEEZ]

Welcome! Why do you think you added too much ammonium chloride? If you followed the directions you should be at 2ppm. I have that same ammonia test, and it tested higher than 2ppm when I cycled. Don't trust that that test is very accurate, the measured amount of ammonium chloride per volume is much more accurate. Just wait and test daily it will start dropping!

 

[Brew12]

Welcome!!!

You have gotten lots of great advice. I like the idea of a 50% water change but you don't have to.

If you added Biospira, and the bottle was still good, you shouldn't have any ammonia in your system in under a week. The nitrogen cycle is just one part of what a new tank needs to be ready for fish and coral. There are a lot of other issues that need stability which only time can deliver. Patience is a wonderful thing!

 

[Idoc]

Haha didn't expect this much feedback
I am using dry rock, and just set this up yesterday!
I still have a bit more to get.
For the light, I'm planning to use an orbit marine 18" (I'm only doing soft corals)
For the ATO, I'm using a hamster bottle with tubing going down.

How long do y'all think the cycling will be (-ish) ?

Nice...I really like the rock work!

 

[GenericReefer]

So I should just wait? If things get better I finish cycling and do 50% water change. If ammonia levels stagnate I do 50% water change and wait for cycle to complete, and do another 50% waterchange? After that I'm ready for clean up crew, and fish? I used instant cycling, but overdosed on ammonia, so it should take from a month to three to finish cycling?

 

[reeferfoxx]

So I should just wait? If things get better I finish cycling and do 50% water change. If ammonia levels stagnate I do 50% water change and wait for cycle to complete, and do another 50% waterchange? After that I'm ready for clean up crew, and fish? I used instant cycling, but overdosed on ammonia, so it should take from a month to three to finish cycling?

No. You dosed bacteria. The cycle should finish quickly. You already have nitrite so it shouldn't take much longer. There isn't a definitive answer to cycling so we can't give you an accurate time frame. The only time frame we can give you is when ammonia and nitrite are gone.

Once the ammonia and nitrite are gone, you will have high nitrates. At that point do a 100% one hundred percent water change. 100% of 10 gallons is 10 gallons. However, sand and rock make up a percentage so realistically its like 8 or 9 gallons or 80-90%. The reason you do this is because of excess nitrate, phosphates, silicates and other dissolved organics we cant test for.

After that, wait for the diatom bloom. You'll know when you have diatoms because it looks like brown dust covering sand and rocks. That is when you add the clean up crew and a fish. You have to take this slow otherwise you will run into issues and the hobby no longer becomes fun.

 

[GenericReefer]

I think the ammonia is naturally decreasing. I did an ammonia test in the morning and it definitely reduced (though it still looks quite similar). There is still a good amount of ammonia, but not at the previous levels. I did a minor water change (1\2 gallon) so I'll continue to do this over the week.

 

[GenericReefer]

I think I have gotten well into the cycling. What do you all think?
There is something off about pH, too..
Also, when I got my dry rock, there was some light brown color on the rock. If there is any change, I'll send a picture, but as of now, I don't see much difference.

 

[Brew12]

I would do a 50% water change. Maybe more if you can. But, I do think you are on the right path, you just really need to get those nitrates down.

 

[GenericReefer]

So will I need to wait for diatoms, then add livestock? I want to add some Tisbe copepods as early as I can.

 

[Brew12]

So will I need to wait for diatoms, then add livestock? I want to add some Tisbe copepods as early as I can.

You need to get your nitrates under 40ppm, and preferably around 10ppm prior to adding livestock. Tanks can be successfully run with nitrates over 100ppm but it is challenging. To help reduce algae issue and other instability you really want your nutrients lower prior to adding livestock. It will make things easier in the long run.

Once you get your nitrates down you can add livestock. Just remember if you add any livestock you will need to add food for them as your tank doesn't have much in it. If you add pods you will need to feed them regularly until you start getting some algae growth.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

You need to get your nitrates under 40ppm, and preferably around 10ppm prior to adding livestock. Tanks can be successfully run with nitrates over 100ppm but it is challenging. To help reduce algae issue and other instability you really want your nutrients lower prior to adding livestock. It will make things easier in the long run.

Once you get your nitrates down you can add livestock. Just remember if you add any livestock you will need to add food for them as your tank doesn't have much in it. If you add pods you will need to feed them regularly until you start getting some algae growth.

not just nitrates but he has high nitrites. Just wait a few more days and see if they both come down a bit.

 

[Brew12]

not just nitrates but he has high nitrites. Just wait a few more days and see if they both come down a bit.

Nothing wrong with waiting on the nitrites but no reason to wait on them. They aren't a problem in a marine aquarium and the test kits are very unreliable.

 

[GenericReefer]

Could I use a regular desk lamp to promote algae growth to feed copepods? Until my light arrives, could I use that?

 

[Brew12]

Could I use a regular desk lamp to promote algae growth to feed copepods? Until my light arrives, could I use that?

Any light is better than no light.